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Update on round vent screens for the bell housing: My friend ordered a set from the company and he sent me an email today and he stated they were a perfect fit. I have asked for the item number so we can all order some to have in our parts supply. I have attached a copy of the picture tht he sent me with the new round screens and the one sitting on the top of the BH is an original. the ones in the bell housing are the after market replacements. Here is the exact screen that my friend purchased and the part number is RST-100 1 inch 6 pack. He told me they were a perfect fit and could not have been better. They only way it could have been better is if they were free. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Always the environmentalist.....

What's funny is I made an engine stand a few years back out of a cut frame (sold the back half) and just lifted the engine off of it yesterday. I plan on cleaning the stand up and painting it today. Guess I should show a picture of the levitating connector jammer deal. gimme a few minutes........ 48D

I have visited this site a few times in the past but recently started again and have been impressed with the activity, the assistance offered and the relevance to my interests. I currently have a 1929 Plymouth tourer with body by Holden Australia restored on club licence since 1999, a 1955 Plymouth Belvedere Suburban RHD built in Detroit with 259 V8 and 2 speed auto also on club licence, and a 1938 7 passenger Plymouth with Aussie Richards body, in a million pieces. This my first attempt at a post with pics so hope it works. I purchased the '38 running and licensed in Feb 1981 with the plan of having a car I could use for club events while I slowly rebuilt my 1929 Plymouth from a wreck. It was painted black, the engine barely ran and the leather upholstery was falling apart, but we drove it onto the trailer under its own steam. I cant find any pictures of it as bought but I must have been dazzled by the fact it was a 7 passenger and had all its chrome and fittings. There was no water in the radiator and It turned out the engine had a hole in the head above No 1 cylinder, every pot had broken rings, and water had corroded the bearings, crank and camshaft. The bottom of each centre door post was rusted out, and there was rust in the boot (trunk) area. By July 1982 I had it on the road with new paint (Ford Neptune Blue), new tyres and a temporary engine out of a 1936 Dodge utility (pickup) that we found abandoned up in the hills, and sheets tacked over rebuilt seat frames. My daughter in the pic below is now 41! In the next couple of years I fixed oil leaks, replaced spring bushings, brakes and wheel bearings and changed the diff from original 7 passenger 4.3 to standard 4.1 ratio as we tend to travel longish distances. By 1984 I was ready to replace the interior with upholstery in original blue leather. When I stripped the hood lining I discovered I had serious rust issues under the lead used in large quantities on the roof, which was fabricated from a standard roof cut in half with a central insert about 18 inches wide. The repairs were completed by Nov 1985 and the car was back on the road, however the upholstery guy was no longer available. In 1988 we had a surprise addition to the family, a baby girl after 17 year drought! The upholstery money went on adding a bedroom. In the meantime the car was used as a daily driver by my wife on the school run - rule was "no running in the car"! By 1995 the brake lines had rusted thru, the radiator had collapsed for the second time, the exhaust was shot, valves keep sticking and to cap it off I backed it into our Falcon wagon and badly dented the boot. I deregistered it in disgust as by that time I was making progress on the 29. Fast forward to 2012 and we have changed address, I now have 1/2 acre and a 5 bay shed. However to fit the 7 passenger in it I had to remove the front clip. The car is now a mobile storage unit for surfboards, wetsuits and a couple of broken chairs. But it still runs! I plan to post an outline of the rebuild process which started in 2012, but here is a recent pic of the body on a home made rotisserie - stripping back roof to bare metal after a VERY bad sand blast and prime job. Jim

Something of my wife's I ran across while taking pics of 8-tracks for another thread.. I opened this up, saw Bobby Rydell and Connie Francis and that was it for me.. ( Insert Lurch groan here..)

A lovely reminder how nice and classy the Windsor is to drive. Running errands today. Made a lot of smiles on people’s faces today. Chasing storm clouds home. We made it. With the old opposing wipers getting caught in the rain is always dicy. Lol.

This is the stand I took the motor off of. The 230 is a teaching motor, so to speak. I might get it running, I don't know. The stand is made from a wrecked frame that I welded some legs on. I didn't know I'd use the dang thing so much, so I'm welding up the weak spots and then painting it. The engine will go back in and continue to entertain those who want to learn. 48D

Sometimes they listen, sometimes not. Last year I worked on my neighbors 54 Ford that had a overheating issue ... I fixed that and now it needs a decent tune up. Has a 1990's 302 with FI/AOD trans. Since it had been parked for 12-16 months, I asked him to just drive it and burn the existing 1/2 tank of gas out, put in some fresh gas and drive it some more. Then I will work on a tune up with the fresh gas. It was very drive able, would smoke the tires by accident. Just had a occasional stumble. But year old gas. I drove it over to his house and parked it last summer, has not been started or moved since. Now I really have no desire to work on it again ... Cars sitting is the biggest enemy of them .... they want to be driven to keep them working, and today's fuel is terrible.

The carb might be just fine..the car needs to be driven for awhile to see how it performs before doing any more repairs. After all it did drive fine hundreds of miles upon it's purchase.

Ulu, Nicely done, looks like a good place to sit back with a cool drink and relax.

I live In a bungalow on a cul-de-sac, so the front isn’t very large. In fact the whole thing is just 1/3 of an acre so not large at all but it’s the second biggest lot in our neighborhood. When we moved here in 2002 that tree existed and there was one rosebush, And some scruffy grass in the front yard. But the entire backyard was nothing but hardpan dirt, dog poop and puncture vines. We had it scraped out with the ripper and brought in 10 yards of topsoil and thousands of dollars worth of sod. I’ve probably bought another 10 yards a bag at a time over the past 18 years.

I made brackets that utilized the 4 corner bolts, last in sequence for torque so easy to deal with.

If you decide to disassemble the synchro to clean and lube it, the notes below are available on Vanpeltsales website. They specialise in Ford and I have wondered whether the parts are interchangeable as they look identical. The process is simple but needs care to avoid losing bits.

He says that in 1942 Chrysler took the left over radios and switched them to 120 volt and sold them for home/shop use. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Motorola-Chairside-Radio-47D2-A-Factory-Chrysler-Auto-World-War-2-REAL/353076944262?hash=item5235069d86:g:sGcAAOSwFxNevbl2

Here's one guys story of restoring one of these tables. https://sites.google.com/site/philcoa801chairside/

This right here. OP says fuel was pooled in the intake. Even after sitting for hours/days. Carb is obviously wet with fuel on the outside. OP says plugs smelled of gas. Why are we fiddling with spark? Rebuild the carb, get a new float. These carbs are real simple. My carb rebuild writeup http://www.yourolddad.com/carb-rebuild

Many of these were built into armchair side tables. Seen at least two on Craigslist and eBay.

I think all the engine was severely flooded. It probably was flooded by trying to start it the 1st time this spring...incorrectly, choke set too rich, choke stayed closed, pumping the pedal too much on and on. Then all the more cranking possibly with the choke closed the whole last month trying to start it. Pulling the plugs out...opening the choke and throttle plate ..a couple brief starts helped get rid of some excess fuel and continuous cranking finally cleared it up enough to start. The choke plate operation probably needs to be looked at upon a cold start. Jmo.. Early 70's 318,360's were notorious for having this same cold start flooding issue if they sat. Numerous service bulletins on those.

Interesting perspective from the younger generation. Hey, they are trying, and they have lots of energy. A few years of reading this forum, months of reading manuals and sourcing parts, they'll be talking and sounding like the rest of us here. Keep at it guys. We all had to start somewhere.

So, from what I can tell, the real lesson on this thread.... Don’t let that Tom’sB2B talk you into bidding on stuff ? ( crazy Californian ?)

The wetness at the base of the carb suggests a stuck open needle seat valve or a too high float setting or a float hanging up and not closing the needle or a float with a pin hole leak so it fills with fuel and doesn't float. Get some new spark plugs installed after you sort the issues.

I am just saying my issue, po moved the oil pump which caused the firing order to be off ... So when I yanked the wires willy nilly and replaced them, distributor was wrong. And the truck would not start. I went through the carb thinking that could be a issue. While I had the carb off, I noticed there was a pool of fuel sitting in the intake. I was worried about this. Once I fixed the firing order, it started right up and I never checked to see if still a pool of fuel in the manifold. Just saying I have seen this, I would ignore it and move forward, not your issue.

I did some more reading and looked at my tranny closer again. I think I can answer my own question here about clutch gear wear. See the little brass squares in the pic above? These contact the cone shaped ramp on the adjacent gear. As the sliding synchro ring slides toward the neighbouring gear, the brass area rides up the ramp. As it engages, it speeds up or slows down, to match the rotating speed of the adjacent gear that it is engaging. My brass squares are worn pretty good. Then the speed does not match as well as it should. Then the gears grab and grind a little when they engage. This synchro is only used in gears 2 and 3. I found a new, original Chrysler, still in the box clutch gear assembly on Ebay today for $80. Seemed like deal to me. My tranny getting a new synchromesh. The ramp area on the adjacent gear is the shiny polished ring seen in the pick below. The green arrow pointing at it. I think I am on the right track here. Your comments are welcome. Thanks.

why does it look like that knife sits so comfortable in her hand....don't anger her....Ulu...we no see Ulu....

Patio aquarium in summer. My wife puts flowers everywhere. She loves sugarcane, and here she's at her aunt's house, chopping with her grandpa's machete. This is the closest she will get to actual farm work.

In the late ‘60’s and early ‘70’s I was an English Literature teacher / debate coach in a high school of 3,000 students. I was the first teacher to wear a beard of any kind,

What he ^^^^ said. No rubber under the rad. Meral spacers on all I've seen.

Mr. The Finger, you can plug them into the side of your Akai X2000 reel to reel.

I don’t remember age 31! That was half a century back. Dang, that was 1970! Nam war, if I recall, pre viagra, Johnson/Nixon era, Liz Taylor was still a beauty, John Wayne and Ann Margaret were making great movies, Elvis and the Beetles! Radical times!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/264724171144 Good luck!

driving up the auction price is called shill bidding if'n ya are in cahoots with the seller...I learned from many auctions that if I'm really interested in an item that I'll only place a bid in the last few seconds to keep the price down, but if I'm only mildly interested in winning, I'll place my max bid early to scare off the bargain hunters

While I’m waiting on a couple of transmission parts I decided to make some sill plates since I didn’t have any. Just used some 1/8” steel plate and some leftover rubber mat. Just cut the plate, drilled a few holes and glued the mat on with some headliner adhesive.

Cheers 59bisquik. I have made my own rubber mounts but I think doubling up to 1/2" thick will do the business. Be good to get the truck out of the garage and let it see daylight when this virus is over. Thanks for all your help lads...Dave. Norwich UK. ........Its coming along slowly.....

I just acquired several more Miller Factory Tools and will try to post the pictures of the tools. C-604 for all Dodge,Des, Chry and Ply hydraulically operated Trans. Trans reverse idler gear shift puller C-609 for all fluid drive equiped cars. This is the clutch driven plate aligning Arbor C-625 this is a partila set of tools runner hub bearing and bushing puller C-714 For all Dod, Des, Chry and Ply hydraulicially operated trans. Transmission poston return spring compressor. C-716 for 1946-53 Dod,Des and Chry Hydraulically operated trans. Trans countershaft needle bearing assembly arbor C-745 for all Ply,Dod, Des and Chry Sixes.This is the rear axle shft oil seal installing Sleeve. Not to be used on the Eight and 7 passenger cars DD-286 or c-3181 for all models. Clutch shaft pilot bushing installing and burning tool. Now I have both tools the DD and the C Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com.

And just like that. The tool sold for $75.59. In the last few seconds it jumped from $41 to $75. And since I put my max bid at $80, and it sold for $75, I dont really trust the system ... I will just buy a new tool with a push of a buy now button.