Leaderboard

Used some model paint to hand paint the tail lights, hubcaps and Job Rated. Nice to have an artist for a wife who willingly did the work ?

I look forward to this. I'm not going to be able to attend most of it, but I'm going to try. I'd like my place to be a stopping point, maybe Sunday after all of it, or just if necessary for any repairs, or??

since I bought the Dodge in october, I only have a few hundred miles done so far, before it went to storage.. So we have all summer to get ready,, to check the car in different situation. like high speed (60) and in the Laurentian/Appalachian mountains chain,,., If it does not work out, we will used the Harley Motocycle or if bad weather we use GMC pick-up.. it is quite a trip with the old girl..lol..350 miles one-way!!.. but we will give it a shot,

Std

I will try to find the picture I saw on the Studebaker forum. Someone put a Studebaker Champion small flathead 6 in a Corvette.

Worden, I have enjoyed reading your post while I have time in school to read them. I do not know if you have seen any of my posts but I am a Meadowbrook owner as well 1950 fluid drive. I purchased when I was 16 since then rebuilding most of the car besides from the body. Reading your posts about penetrol has really wanted me to apply it to my car. I live on a gravel road, did you have any problems with dust adhering to the penetrol during the drying process? I could use my parents garage to apply the product. So dust doesn't gather on the car in the old barn I park it in. But I wondering what would be an appropriate drying time before driving to town from the gravel road without permanently adhering to my car? Once again, I am usually scared to take my car out, whether it be driving it in weather or driving it to school. These posts want me to take Daisy out for a ride more often! Thanks, Noah

What is your goal here? Are you trying to find a good block with a matching engine code for your truck? Or just a good block? A good block should be available closer to home but it this one is good and also a matching engine code I'd say hit the road. I think I'd probably offer $200 and see what they say. The resale market for these as cores isn't strong.

If you are doing a complete rebuild yes it's probably ok....but might need all new valve seats..$$$...valves look rust pitted Hopefully all the rods are original..they might have swapped a rod and piston...requiring balancing...sme shops make it worse ..seen that before Crankshaft wear could be a big issue too. Too bad it's not close.

Based on the pictures I wouldn't have any hesitation in buying that engine block. I would be surprised if it has been bored oversize. I would venture to say someone has definitely been in the engine and done a few things but I don't see anything that would scare me away. The only information you don't have is condition of crank and there's no way to see that without pulling the pan.

Yes, replace axles!!!!! Good call.

My 2 cents. My truck got parked in '73 in an Arizona field and barn, until it was moved to a barn in Wyoming in 2008. When I tore mine down this year, I found the T-stat housing had rusted out and all the coolant passages where full of rust and grime. I've flushed the head a few times, and the block a few times to get as much as possible out. The machine shop will be doing an acid dip to kill it all internally. I will say though that when I pulled my head off for the 1st time, all my pistons, cylinder walls, and valves looked better than pictured above. The pistons have some carbon build up, the intake valves had a little too, and the exhaust where all stained white from leaded fuel. If I was in a pinch for a replacement engine to rebuild, I would probably pull the trigger on this one. Even with the drive, call it a weekend getaway.

Hey Craig, I'll get the moderator to move your question to the regular forum. You'll get a much better response. 48D

Was in Knoxville just a couple days ago.....rain made for a poor trip, roads, always pot hole all around Knoxville. I would not want to venture back there until some very nice weather moves into the area. I think there would be more engines closer to home....just got to shake a few bushes...check with any local car club or back shop ratrodder hangouts....they always swapping in the small bent engines and usually have or know if there are any of these engines in your area. If you do not know these folks or where they gather in your area, ask your local over the counter big box parts retailer...they have a fair handle on who is doing what and where in the local area. Good luck...this one is really on the outer limits for inspection I agree. Get a lead on these guys hangout, show up with some beer, they usually respond similar to Pavlov's dog....

that could be just an assumption...there could be many reason for the replaced pistons, busted top ring lands come to mind...should they have been replaced at random without regard to the cast weight consideration of the others...no but again not unheard of. Many people have different ideas when it comes to repairs and to what depth and direction to proceed. Unless the man would go measure the bore and sent that data...it is all speculation. Is this block you entertaining within a reasonable drive to look and make a few observation/measurements for yourself. That is about the only way I can advise one to proceed on an unknown and pictures only transaction. Not sure many here could say more for you. Maybe a member is closer to the block and would do a courtesy inspection. That cylinder head has been off for some time, dobbers have built nests in the head bolt holes...the intake studs, couple of them look like they are not going to be an easy replacement either as there is no meat left on the bone...

I think after a good look about the shop that this is all staged.....why you ask....there are no liquor or beer bottle anywhere...a prerequisite for this disaster in the making.....

Very nice!

Yep, traces of rust left in the bore and take a look at the pitting on the intake valves. Surely had water in it at some time, for a fairly long time I'd guess. But, doesn't mean it's not a viable core, if the price right. As to the piston markings, I've seen a lot of overhauls done and done some myself where the cylinders were OK, but a piston or two had broken or worn ring lands . In my 230 that just got put back together it had 2 #3 rods on a set of .060 pistons. Old rebuild with a bad rod so they used one from another engine. Common in the rebuilder world. Just wish they had remarked it. Fortunately I have a habit of punch marking them anyway.

I agree Bob, looks like some short cuts taken....I would consider this as only a candidate for tear down.

Cylinder looks rusty.. Generally pistons will be stamped with the oversize on the tops. Looks like the cylinders were some what rusty and honed and or wire wheeled clean ?

Great White North,, Trois-Rivières (three Rivers) , QuéBec, Canada,, about 135 miles (217kms) to NEWPORT, VERMONT..

Update on running hot. My 51 never ran hot, till today. In fact it ran cold, never got much above 150 degrees. I figured it was either the wrong thermostat in there, no thermostat or one that was stuck open. I was wrong. There was a thermostat in it, a Delco one rated for 180 degrees. It was installed upside down. Near as I could figure the water pressure was sufficient to unseat the valve and kept the engine running too cool. The valve was definitely seated when I pulled it. I swear the mechanic that maintained this car before me was a world class hack. Everything he touched was poorly and incorrectly done. While I had the coolant drained to change the thermostat I took advantage of it to pull the radiator so I could clean off the timing marks on the pulley and check my timing. It was too tight to do a good job otherwise. Timing was set to 30 degrees advanced, at idle speed of 550 rpm. Wow. So now I am running at about 200 degrees, on an 80 degree day. This was with a lot of low speed driving around a parking lot, teaching my son to drive. In a 51 Cambridge with no power anything, three on the tree. He did pretty well though I think I did pick out the smell of clutch.

No don't know a source. But, a 12v will work fine, just be sure the lights are all off and jump direct to starter. actually it is a benefit as it will provide a hotter spark during cranking, just remember to remove quickly. been done many times. And, it is useful for all the 12v 'others' you may encounter, or the rest of your fleet.

As hard as it is to find one of these and this guy ruins one of the few 2 doors in what seems like a decent shape...... https://dothan.craigslist.org/pts/d/opp-1961-plymouth-camino-hotrod-rat-rod/7061888487.html