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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/12/2020 in all areas

  1. Hi all, new guy here, but here is my ‘55. 241 v8, never apart, smokes but runs good. Pretty much all original.
    2 points
  2. If you are going to rewire the complete front end of car / engine harness and some up under the dash... You will find as soon as you start undoing some wires from switches etc the wire starts to fray....so Take the complete dash assembly out with all the front of car/engine harness still connected to it. That's so you can photograph all the wiring and the way it's routed and connected. Leave the cluster in too. You can lay the dash and wiring out on a large bench or the floor being able to replace/duplicate all necessary wiring and clean repair what you want. >Remove the lower garnish molding...seven screws hold the top of the dash to the cowl. >Remove the 1/2" Rt and left lower dash retaining bolts (behind the top of kick panels) >Remove heater control panel (4 Phillip's screws) >Remove cowl vent bracket brace bolts to dash >Remove bolts securing steering column to dash >Photograph and disconnect/ mark all wiring in engine compartment that will be pulled through firewall rubber grommet hole when dash is pulled >Remove firewall grommets for..oil/temp gauge,speedo cable and main front wire harness >Disconnect oil gauge hose at engine >Disconnect temp gauge at cylinder head >Remove speedo cable if you can reach it from back of dash...if not remove it from trans..no oil will leak out >There might be the heater control valve temp sensor screwed to the side or rear of the glove box...cannot be sure >Some models will have a yellow wire at each end of fast connected to the door pillar switch remove if so >Dash should be ready to pull back and out...watch all cables as and wires as they come through firewall...remove complete dash..... If this was a.plymouth or dodge it would be simple but the Chrysler's are much more complicated and very tight. I have cut the main harness close to the firewall to separate the dash from the front harness for quicker R&R but normally don't as I want the harness undamaged to duplicate as original. Hope this helps and won't scare you away?
    2 points
  3. The body is at the body shop, I have the drivetrain at my place. Trying to move the diff around reminded me that I did not want to work on it on the floor, so I got to looking at the tubing I had left over from the k-frame/engine/trans dolly and I thought, "Why not make one for the diff?" I tried to make it adjustable enough to use with other diffs, but it would require some additional "fabrication" to use on a diff that mounts under the springs. The bottom of the brake drum is 15" above the floor. The support under the input collar is a bit redundant on this diff, but I thought it might be necessary on others...and I had the scraps to build it with.
    1 point
  4. Spent the day welding plug into old hole,machined out some sleeves to press new bushings in. Bored holes in frame, mounted square tubes and a quick test fit with an overbored sleeve. next is new shackles.tack it all together and see how it sits. very happy with today’s progress.
    1 point
  5. I am going to go to a set of Landon's manifolds as well, do you recall the specifications of the studs you used? I'd like to have them on hand before I start.
    1 point
  6. My pulley is different than all of those and no balancer. I had the crank, rods, fly wheel and pistons balanced. These cars must have a bunch of different things put on over the years.
    1 point
  7. You have to watch these guys .... next time you at the pancake house and will want louvers in their waffles .... I have seen this before you have to be careful.
    1 point
  8. This is really helpful thanks! I was feeling around up behind it this morning and the stiffness of the wire bundles and such led me to believe it would be a nightmare to leave it in place and work from below on my back. Long ago in my first vintage car, a 55 Belvedere, I was making the turn in front of the rocky steps in front of the art museum here in Philly and my dash caught on fire right in the middle of everything. I got under the dash and ripped the ammeter wire out-it was shorting and some cabbie sprayed it with his extinguisher. I don't ever want to repeat that! Just a minor burnt fingers. it was not much bigger than a big candle flame. i was able to drive it after some roadside repairs. i'm going to take this very slowly and methodically. everything is getting tagged and photographed. i'm enjoying the pace actually. it's nice to be able to work on a car and not worry about having to get it working quickly.
    1 point
  9. Now that I'm committed to disc front brakes (on order) and most likely discs in the rear the next change has to be the brake master cylinder. I'm considering using an AC Delco 18M802 that was discussed in this thread. Lots more work to do now! Brad
    1 point
  10. Like any tool, the higher the quality in manufacture, the better the tool will work. Any and all of these require proper backing to prevent distortion in use. Proper set up is a must. Strength of the material is extremely important, not saying a pan lid will not work, but, it was designed as a pan lid. Well made disc is .060 thick stainless. A heavier pan bottom of stainless would be more to my idea of a substitute and the centering of the mounting hole is of importance in mounting and use. As with any tool there is a principal in application, there is experience gained by use...I would not expect an "excellence" right out of the box but you will see in first application how it works. Access to both sides of the damage yield faster more excellent results. Virtually eliminates bumping metal in many applications. Technique in use is important and learning this take a bit of time. I am not what I would call skilled, but it sure beats hammer/dolly and other shrinking methods hands down in my opinion. And, it does not take much for the friction to generate heat, careful when wiping you do not expose bare skin to just prepped surface...definite ouch conditions exist...
    1 point
  11. great clip brent! cant wait to see the full length feature. coincidentally i was looking a plane tickets earlier this week. glad im not the only one thinking about the bbq already.
    1 point
  12. HOLY VINTAGE DODGER TRUCKS BATMAN!!! THAT was friggin AWESOME!!! 48D
    1 point
  13. So that's where you have been all this time.. Cat shopping?! Brent..c'mon...I'm sure you wanted the cat for just yourself... Maybe "Bee-uh-three" would be acceptable to Julie?
    1 point
  14. picked up a 4mo old kitten last Sunday. It’s Julie’s cat but I tried to name him “B3” (yeah, that didn’t go over like I hoped ?)
    1 point
  15. for you recent donation! Any help is always appreciated and goes a long way to helping keep the site going. Thank you again, GT
    1 point
  16. Haha Haha funny 1 wrong letter lol
    1 point
  17. I heard yahoo could not shed any light on this subject...they seem to also lean a bit to the dark side...
    1 point
  18. ...does Yahoo know about this?
    1 point
  19. BCG...…..birth control glasses....
    1 point
  20. A note on the Dodge frame mounted brake booster... Dodge B series used only the "Midland HyPower" single or dual diaphram boosters on 1-1/2 ton and up.trucks with 9-1/2" diaphrams. Hydro-Vac boosters were a "Bendix" brand booster and were not used in the B series Dodge trucks. Hydro-Vacs were common on Chevy, GMC, Ford and other trucks.
    1 point
  21. Moog CC850 is the part number for the Aerostar springs. If you go to this site it gives the specifications and dimensions. https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/universal_coil_springs.asp
    1 point
  22. got a little further last night after work:
    1 point
  23. well I was only going by the picture......it may not be enough room...so try the following as a first option... insert a screw driver or other properly size pry bar/tool to get behind the nut and apply some directional force as I use a wrench to again try to remove the stripped nut….
    1 point
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