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I think a Loc-tite type sealant/retainer compound is used when installing the speedi-sleeves too.

The Speedi-Sleeve arrived today so off to the shop. Here is the tool that is included with the sleeve that is used for installation. Place it over the sleeve give a couple of gentle taps with a hammer to get the sleeve started straight, then drive it home. I put a short length of 2x4 on the tool to apply force evenly with the hammer. And the finished result.......good as new! This is what the hub looked like when it came off the leaky car:

That’s because your daily work truck is a Ford

I have wanted one of these since high school and I have been looking since last Winter on the internet and asking everyone I meet if they know of one for sale. I finally found one too good to be true and went to see it and bought it. It is a numbers matching original car with 79800 miles totally unmolested 1967 Chevelle Malibu with a 250 ci straight six with a powerglide transmission. It should get 20mph, very rare to find one of these untouched down to the am radio in the dash. It also came with the original stock wheels and wheel covers which I will store for posterity.

Did the deal on this one today. 1938 P6. Great known history. Solid car. Original interior. D24 engine installed but comes with original P6 engine needing rebuild. Lots of spare parts! Good runner. Test drove it. Looking forward to getting into this car. No plans other than make it reliable, road worthy and safe. Picked up in Victoria BC Canada. I will trailer it home next Saturday.

for you folks curious of tanks internals, Moose just gave you a birds eye view.....my 51 Suburban tank look very much the same when I removed it....

Also dropped the tank, and rebuilt the left front brake.

Please post an ad in the "classifieds" section of the forum to re-home this guy. Meanwhile I will lock this thread.

Agreed! Plan B is the better option after that close inspection.

erf....yep, bad juju

More photos of Truck 29. Very little rust. Engine compartment is larger enough to fit almost anything. Nice truck for rebuild.

eek...them squiggly lines look like another door opening for opportunities ahead...

Whatever it was it washed away after pulling it out of the Evapo-rust bath and washed it down. This morning I set up a pair of saw horses and laid a pallet on top. I will say in January the water temperature out of the faucet is rather cold! I hosed down the inside and outside for about 45 minutes continuously while periodically moving the hose from place to place. Early on every time I moved the hose more junk would wash out but over time the amount that came out was less and less. Eventually I didn't see anything coming out. I kept at it for a few more minutes and then tilted it upright to let as much water drain as possible. I tried rotating the pinion shaft and it was definitely easier than it had been previously for sure. I then laid it on it's side again and discharged an entire 18 oz can of WD40 into the innards while rotating the pinion and moving the housing to various positions. Now it seems to rotate a little easier so it appears progress has been made. Previously when rotating the pinion shaft I would just grab the yoke by hand and try to twist it. I know for a fact due to my surgery I don't have the strength that I used to so having it seem hard to turn could be partially my fault. However, I then took a socket extension and placed it between the yoke tangs and it rotates relatively easy now. Is there a torque in inch pounds that it should take to rotate the pinion shaft?

I tuned up the glass flange and hit the whole thing with a lick of paint to get ready for tomorrow. It was also my last chance to fix up the rear view mirror- I tried to pull it before and the screws are seized so I left well enough alone but I’ll never have this kinda access with glass installed and it certainly shows from the front of the truck. It always looked dingy- the cast stem was a mix of oxidized gray and the glass frame was a brownish rust finish probably tempered by thirty years of nicotine. I had no idea the stem is chrome! It has a few pits and dings but it came up pretty nice and bright. The frame back was easy to clean with a wire brush on a drill and I painted it satin black. If I could remove it it could be wet sanded polished and clearcoated for a more original look but at least it will look clean now. I found a maker’s stamp- “Guide” the famous oldschool light manufacturer! Pretty cool. It’s supposed to be 60° by 10:00 am tomorrow so it will be my best chance for a while to work with the rubber gasket. 85° would be better but I’m sure typical just over freezing winter temps would make the job frustrating and greatly increase the odds of breaking the glass and ripping the gasket. Anyway I’m as ready as I’m gonna be for tomorrow!

finalized reassembly of my rear leaf springs. I removed the overload springs and 4 springs from the main pack, going from 10 down to 6. I do not need the load carrying capacity, and looking for slightly better ride quality but it will be some time before I can see if I chose the right 4 springs to remove. here are some photos of the cleaned and painted leaf spring pack, with top plate and u-bolts. When I return from India I will work on installing the Ford 10.25" rear axle then it will be time to start on the front axle, which is looking to be significant work, since I need to make frame extensions to mount it, since the leaf spring perches cannot be moved on the Dana 60 and they are 37-38" wide and my frame width in front is ~30"....lots of fab work!

I like your truck too... My Cummins trucks all haul very well. Very nice 1938, it's good to see one kept that close to original.

I do work on my family vehicles, replaced the turbo on a Cruse last month. Getting started on the engine build for my 56, then comes the body. Also doing a lot of little stuff, headliner, rear window, heater fix, on a 97 f150 that I bought new. Normal stuff, lots of yard work, mowing, flower beds, mine and my daughter that lives nearby. I also do some woodworking, home remodeling (just finished a room addition and framed/roofed a patio cover last summer). I really don't know how I ever had time to work for a living! Retired for my real job in 98, dealt in antiques until 2012 then sold that and really retired. I'm 76, 77 next month.

Just going over this tread again. How did your swap turn out, did you post it with pictures.

Update, Welded in the spacers on the frame to take out the slop on the A Arms, also bought new nuts and bolts, tight as a tick. Ended up replacing all of the bushings, upper and lower ball joints, inner and outer tie rods and center link. There was a reason the truck was headed to the junk yard, everything was worn out. Calipers and rotors also installed the 1 1/2 inch billit spacers that picks up 3 inches on the front width and then 5 inches on the rear. Next job is replacing the rear seals on the rear end and then install. Ordered the under floor brake/MC assembly, once that's installed I can run the brake lines. Planning on a trial assembly of the cab and front end while I wait on the engine rebuild.

I'm with Jeff on this. I've never had my spring packs apart. I sprayed them down with penetrating oil a couple times early on. Now I'll add a spray down with a dry lube spray every couple of years. I'm always amazed how well it rides for a 70 year old 3/4 ton truck.

Actually you can get a variable speed going on the fan with a single wire. My heater has a rheostat control that changes the power to the fan motor for variable speed.

I used Rivet-Nuts to mount the mirror bracket

Just joined. Had viewed site before seeking answers. My most recent question was how to remove the pilot bushing on my 1940 P10.Had done it with my dad when I was a kid. Saw various answers/methods from chisel to one gentleman who apparently has the exact Mopar tool. Lucky guy. Just thought I’d share how I got mine out. Buy a Pittsburgh 62601 Bearing puller kit at Harbor Freight or online. Engine in car. . One, spray/soak with JB Blaster. Works better than Liquid Wrench I think. I sprayed it a couple times and let it sit overnight. Two, using a wooden dowel or socket with extension that fits diameter of hole in crankshaft tap the bushing hard a few times and watch closely for the bushing to move IN a tad. This means the bushing will move. Insert appropriate fitting from bearing puller setprovided as directed, use as directed. Attach slide hammer. Slam a few times. Should pop right out.

For your consideration: when building up my 218, after the speedi sleeve install and getting ready to finally put it all back together....I put some non-hardening pipe threat sealant on the nose of the pulley hub so it would seal against the face of the crankshaft timing gear. Not sure there is a leakage path between the face of the timing gear and the nose of the pulley hub then up the OD of the crankshaft and or along the key/keyway but a swipe of sealant seemed like cheap insurance.

Its a 25" block, a remote brake booster has been added, the MC doesn't look like the US models but does look original to the car, there is some sort of upper lubrication system installed. Its leaking some coolant. I was told the gear and different has 80-90w oil in them. Do these gearboxes have synchromesh in 2nd &3rd gears? No body builders name on the plate below the Dodge plate on the firewall. Are the taillights correct? When i first seen it, I thought they were Ford repro's.

Besides a "Blind hole puller" you can use a big old tap. Just thread it in and then pull it out. Good for generator bushings too. Some guys get an old rusty tap and weld a big nut on the end so they can use a slap hammer or just lever it.

Grease and a tight fitting dowel works too.

glad the blade and pulley is off, wore me out following this adventure. Charlie Stephenson

I used a M/C from a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee in my 52. Works very well. There is enough room in your truck for one of these even with an adapter plate. One of the reasons I chose this M/C is that it is a direct match up to the Grand Cherokee rear axle I fitted. Having 12" discs in the rear is really really nice. With the rustyhope kit on the front and these discs on the rear my truck easily handles the silly drivers I have to share the road with here. I just don't have to worry about braking as the truck stops much like a modern vehicle. Also the 3.55 ratio axle works well in higher speed commuting that we have here in SoCal. This installation has been pretty much fit and forget. Hth, Jeff

but a good hot cup of coffee will fix your resolve....

Bud light is a good lubricant...

Success! Dinner, family time, and a BL with some wiggling.

Where you see that pin is part of the fan hub that is part of the water pump. Do not mess with that pin unless you wish to disassemble the pump. Rust is probably making the fan tight onto the hub. A bit of penetrating oil and a little wiggling and it should come off.

.Meanwhile down in the basement upholstery shop: My wife continues to move ahead. She’s learning new things. She’s done a very good job for her first attempt at this work. She’s not 100% happy with her work. I assure her its great for the level of revival for this car. Unless she worked at the factory in 1938 in the upholstery shop, with all the tools and techniques mastered, she won’t be 100% content. She trudges on with limited tools and experience here at home. I sure am very grateful, and tell her so

Hi all. New to the forum, I thought I was the only guy that liked the old Dodges! Seriously, I have a 55 C1, nice to see other dodge guys out there. Thanks for having me! Here’s a pic of my 55

Yes bronze, sorry for the wrong metal. A few hours on my friends lathe and I made a press insert for removing the bushing from the leaf spring.

Replaced incandescent 1157 tail light bulbs with red led bulbs New Red LED bulb on the right

this turned out pretty good....

When the driver wants to start the engine, he pushed the starter foot rod. Ok I got that. Neat...This evening I go in there to pull the starter. I see that the gas pedal linkage is also automatically activated by the foot starter rod! Cool! More neat Mopar engineering I learned about today. I was a little stumped wondering how a person could crank the engine while working the throttle. Ya’ll knew this already probably. The foot starter rod is right above the gas pedal. Pretty awkward to try and work both at the same time. Now I know, there’s no need! 81 years old, this car. Its all new to me... Very cool stuff.

Spent the afternoon cleaning it up a bit and tinkering. Cleaned up the starter system contacts and grounds. The starter will be pulled, tested and rebuilt if possible. It was not turning very fast, even with a fully charged 6V battery. I was able to get it spinning quick with a 12V boost. Then the car would start. After a couple of those 12V shots , the momentary switch on the starter no longer turns the starter. Even with the starter clutch disengaged. I'll pull it and take it to to a local starter rebuild shop. If anyone is interested, I did a walk-around video this afternoon. https://youtu.be/O2L402Xe-6o

Part of the struggle on a purchase decision was giving up garage space. Today I am quite pleased. I can work with this. The Plymouth is considerably smaller than my Windsor. Those wheel dollies are so handy. Pushing it around, the Plymouth is also much easier as it weighs considerably less too. Today I am satisfied and relieved that I can work with with the garage space I have. All year round I can work on it. The motorcycle seen in the pic is on its way to a new owner. Out of the way soon. Good days ahead...

2:30 am. Just outside my home town. Hiway closure. Serious accident. So we wait. Hopefully no major injuries. Pretty uneventful drive home. The tow truck performed exceptionally well. 15.8 mpg while towing. I’m happy with that. Several new people were met today as they continue to approach. Asking questions. What is it? What year is it? Etc. I look forward to the future with this car.

Anyone know anything about this aftermarket bolt-in Firestone AM radio? I have never seen one before.

Well we made it to pick up point. The rain let up. We got it running and up on the trailer...Almost. Died on the ramp with front wheels on the trailer. We were well equipped with a 12V winch mounted to the front. So we yanked it up and strapped it down. This is my first vintage car rescue with my Ram truck. I’m impressed. The Cummins gets the job done quite well. Waiting now at the ferry to get back to continental North America. We just may get back to Kamloops by mid-nite pacific time. So far so good!

It looks fantastic. Did you restore it yourself? I’m hoping to build up a support group. Finding people who own these Mopars is great. I hope you’ll check back and follow my future posts about by 1938. The experience and tips from others will be very much appreciated.

Keith, Your 1938 Plymouth looks really good,glad to hear you bought it. It's in good hands...Bonus - getting spare parts including the original engine and the cars history as well.?

Very nice. There was a 35 Plymouth 5 window coupe at the car show that I went to today. Had a 350 in it though. too bad.

Here's another one. I think there are more. ? If these are cracks like I think they are then I'll be moving on to plan B which is swapping in a Cherokee differential.