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I liked the shield on my original but could not find another. I fabbed these, using hubcaps for the top, acrylic for the shield and aluminum plate for the base. The filters are K&N designed to fit a Briggs& Stratton lawn mower. Just after installing these, I discovered a beehive air filter with the proper throat that would look great next to the oil filter mounted on my firewall. I've got too much cash and time spent to swap these out though.

Oh it got ruined for definite when it landed here. Below is a picture of it now(I don't post these often because it looks stupid with fake "speed shop" writing on the door). I will eventually take it back and probably satin black it with Green accents but that is only a maybe. The rear arches need to be rolled to get a proper lip on them as right now they rub the tyres.

At the time I did but my notes for that time are missing and my memory is useless/ I did find this

Now I need some for my 4 tonner...any color will do?

Hello All, Earlier this year I bought a 1950 Plymouth Hotrod. It was built in the USA in Boston (I made contact with the original builder, but not going to post his name without his permission) It was imported in the UK in April 2018. Unfortunately on the drive home it snapped the camshaft in the 305. I have since purchased a 350 which will be swapped in. It has some Fatman stuff upfront and I was hoping someone might be able to help me identify the hardware so I can get some spares if I need them. I've tried to email Fatman direct but they never replied. The picture below is before it was imported into the UK. Cheers, Jay.

Reminds me of what my grandpa said when my dad put 36" overhangs on the house he had built in 64. My grandparents' house had virtually no overhang at all, and he said that the first stiff wind would take that roof right off. This was in northeast Oklahoma. And the roof is still on that house. I had even bigger overhang on the house I built in the Amazon, but that was because we had no glass in our windows, only screen, and no shutters, either. I always said that the house had one door and one window. The window started at the left side of the door, and ended at the right side. (We just had a half wall all the way around the house. we needed all of the breeze we could get.)

Very cool! When that plant was expanded to rebuild tanks during WW2, my grandfather, a welder, did a lot of work there. At first he did construction welding to help erect the plant, and he did such a good job that he was picked up to weld on the tanks when the expansion was complete. He was 4F for poor vision and lived in Centralia, IL (where my Dad was born) at the time. Working in Evansville played a role in his relocation to Carmi, IL (where I was born) after the war. My brother and I would spend part of our summers in Carmi after the family moved to Dallas, and every year we did a shopping trip with Grandma to Evansville, where she once pointed out the (by then former Plymouth) plant where Grandpa had worked. I didn't remember much about it until "Djhall1950" posted - Thanks! I still have an Uncle and cousins that live in Carmi. They take a lot of trips to Evansville, it's not far, and the "big city" in the region.

I'm working on a paint by number self portrait. ?

Also remember you are hooking up an auto choke in a vehicle that didn't come with one. Do you have the car carb or the original from your truck?

if you put it on backwards the engine will turn the wrong way! ?

Some nice country there. My buddy’s daughter got a deer early in the season when they werent so timid, i think she got 100 yards from her truck When one trotted out. Was only a few minutes of hunting. last few days have been cold and windy,makes hunting miserable.

Converter box

I used a mooneyes 12 volt Tach that they made a few years back that was small and period correct looking and got a converter from a fellow on this site that allowed me to use my 6 volt positive ground system. Works great. Auto meter makes the Tach for mooneyes

I would guess, the amount of salt you will encounter will not do an appreciable amount of damage. Your wet springtime should adequately remove most. I need the road therapy, need to get out of my shop. You have set a great example of humble sharing, which I enjoy. a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you and your family.

first time I’ve driven it. Still a project car, but now it has life.

Paul, I'm now out of spending money, so you will have to soldier on with your '53-'54 wagon.

additional information - Updated Part Number Interchange List

Here is a source where you can check by overall dimensions inlet/outlet size etc. I found one that was close and made it work. https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/air-conditioning-16770/heater-core-12446/b8e4def0b5a5

Hollander's Interchange book.

I'm not a fan of those stock wheels. "Back in the day", those mag wheels were the 'bomb'. ?

Worth the trip just to meet George

Test post after logging in.

You have to put your ear to the phone. It was a pleasant experience for me. He was very helpful and knowledgeable. Parts ship the next day

How do you find out what stock Terrill Machine has? They dont appear to be on web

About 5hrs of work and I have it down to the frame and motor on the stand. That sucker is heavy!

Great info...Thanx.

I have been a building contractor for almost 34 years (only 16 to go). I would never go with a Pole barn, I have replaced several rotten posts over the years on buildings that are 20-30 years old. Especially now with the new treating process, it’s no where’s near as good as the old treating process. I also agree that a steel roof will leak. I’ve had several disagreements with other builders over the years on steel roofs and I can show you several pictures of roofs I have replaced because the screws don’t hold anymore. Steel expands and contracts with temperature change (A LOT) When this happens it pulls on the screws and lifts them loose. That being said, a standing seam metal roof is a good product but I don’t like the way the snow slides off and destroys decks, shrubs or anything in its way. My recommendation is to go with a 12” Grade beam thick edge slab, foam under the slab, foundation and perimeter. Also put a 6 mil poly under the slab. Then frame your walls 2x6, 2’ on center, then a good quality house wrap. Depending what the surrounding buildings look like I would either put 1x4 wall girts 30 inches on center, and then vertical steel with exposed fasteners. Or sheeting and siding. Put the roof trusses 2’ on center directly above the studs. Then 5/8” OSB roof sheeting, 2 rows ice & water shield then synthetic felt. Good quality shingle such as Certain Teed Landmark’s. Make sure you have a 24” overhang on the eaves and a minimum of 12” on the gable. Vent it properly and have it insulated. I prefer the Blown-In- Bib system. You can get an R- 23 out of 2 x 6 wall. I have built many sheds including my own shop this way and the only upgrade I would recommend if you could afford it is to go with 4’ frost walls instead of a thick edge slab along with in-floor heat. Todd B

I like it!!

That's a fine looking automobile. My sister's car came with F70-14 tires and wire spoke hubcaps. The chrome mags look good on this car but my personal preference is the stock hubcaps. Not that anyone asked.. I bought a running, driving '67 SS396/Turbo400 Chevelle from an employee in 1978 for $350. The 396 was out of the car and it had a 283 in it when I bought it. I got the 396 with it, though. It was black with a red interior and had a big dent in the passenger side right behind the door. The guy I bought it from had another wrecked Chevelle that I cut the quarter out of and welded back in the one I bought, repainted the car and flamed it after a year or so. I replaced the 283/Turbo 400 combo with a 327/M22 Muncie combo and eventually sold the car with the original motor and transmission around 1990. I still have the 283, the 327, and the Muncie. It was a fun car. Lots of good memories..

Thanks for the kind words guys, I think of it as another antique time machine to try and catch Peter Pan in. Here is a shot of the car with the stock wheels.

www.ply33.com has lots of info on parts

This is my newly acquired 1951 B3B. All original with an extra motor and 2 transmissions. On of which is a 4 speed floor shift which i would like to use when i get the motor running again and rewire. Lots of decisions to make...

Got the call back today from the engineer at TinyTach who filled me in on details concerning using their device on our cars. As I've stated before the polarity of the electrical system is no factor. However, the new info I received is about issues with using the device on engines with points and coil. The tach is more reliable with engines with electronic ignitions because the mechanical points, especially if not in prime condition, create a 'dirty' impulse as they open and close and the tach has more problems decoding the signal than if it was generated with a hard-edged, discrete electronic pulse. In years past TinyTach has delivered their older model for use with points/coil to the early Ford and tractor community with four-cylinder engines but that device can't be programmed for six-cylinder engines with three firing impulses per revolution. This is a problem because the tach works best on the coil wire when it is used with a points system. Bottom line-------if someone wants to pursue this tach with one of our cars TinyTach is willing to work with the customer to fine-tune a tach and their current tach may work fine if the ignition system is in excellent condition. But the polarity of the electrical system has no impact since the only connection to the car is via the sensing wire wrapped around an ignition lead. Now......we know more about TinyTach than anyone wanted to know.

I talked with Pete. When I sent him this picture, I said that I should have used 3500rpm. He said to send it back and he'd change it. I did. He changed it to a 2CT33-6v. I also bought a 2C4-3 vacuum gauge and two 186-6v light kit's for the gauges. I used 3/8" head, flange bolts on the reinstall with chrome caps.

Westach. I ordered mine with a special instruction, requesting an all-white pointer. It matches the original gauges really well. I also bought their bullet mount and painted that to match the steering column. Very pleased with how it looks and works.