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It looks pretty good in the photo. Now's the time to make sure it's perfect. Problems show really well when the paint goes on. lol

Little dents and dings don't take a lot of work or money to fix but will really show in the end.

You have worked so hard and are just getting to the fun part....Make it perfect FOR YOU... I have been at it for nearly 3 years and mine is still "ugly" but it has character and I love it

I went ahead and cleaned the contacts in the transmissions governor. Fixed the issue

That's right, the older mechanical speedo housings are becoming very scarce these days. I recently found out about Modern Driveline providing new housings, but they are super expensive at over $600 per unit. The link below directs you to the GM page, but only Ford housings are being shown there now. Not sure what's going on.... The guy that built my T5 reported that he's now sending off the electronic housings to be converted to mechanical, because it's a lot cheaper. I don't have any information on what's required or where they're sent. https://www.moderndriveline.com/product-category/transmissions/5-speed-transmissions/t5/gm-t5/

Todd, you need to contact Roberts Carburetor Repair, Spencer , Iowa. As the owner of 8 John Deere 2 cyls, I have dealt with them many times and they are top notch. You can send the mag to them, or they will sell you a CD showing how to rebuild it yourself. They have every part needed to do this, and can recharge your magnet which I suspect is your main problem. I would also throw away the Champions and put Autolites in it. Roberts phone....712-262-5311, they also have a free catalog.

The systems to assist cold weather starting and quick warm up for smooth running engines, worked very well considering it was mastered so long ago. If maintained and adjusted properly. My ‘53 has a bi-metallic thermo spring style choke. It also has the high idle cam that keeps the engine rpms up for quicker engine warm up. It stays at higher rpms until I manually kick the gas pedal down once, blipping it. Then it idles nicely again. Hot air from the exhaust manifold is pipe’d to the encased, bi-metallic coiled choke spring. As the spring gets warmer it’s length gets longer, casually and slowly opening the choke plate again. Works great still!

these are what I would call a corn cob engine...cylinders in rows all around the core....some of my favorite displays at the air museum are these huge engines...

How about an 18 cylinder B29 engine. The owner advertised that for $100 you could see it run. I'm sure your neighbors would love that. ?

Multi-weight, detergent oil is good, however only after the old sludge has been cleaned out. Cold air does cause different issues. It is denser and therefor more fuel helps richen the air/fuel mixture. Another problem is when fuel is pumped into the carb venturi it creates a nice fine mist. You can see it. It appears like a fog around the throttle valve if you look down the carb throat. When this fog hit the sides of the cold manifold, head and cylinder it condenses again. Collecting as tiny droplets on the walls of the cold metal parts. These droplets don’t want to ignite and combust. Add to that, a weaker battery, even if its 100% charged. The cold weather robs cranking amps. Add some questionable spark plugs. Perhaps lower compression in an old engine. Factor in thicker weight oil. It all adds up and takes a toll.

did you not say that the clock is not an original 6 volt unit...now fitted with 12 guts....and if that statement is true, what was the source of the clock so to determine the value...and rating of the fuse is ONLY for the protection of the circuit not the absolute consumption of said device. Most fuses power a circuit at a percentage over that of the circuit average draw for protection...

?Realy love the forum! Picked up a 1952 dodge panel according to the body # . Engine was trash, friend has a 230 from a 1950 car . It has a 3 speed stick . It looks better in the pictures but not to bad. Don't like what was done to the back doors hopely can change. It's a work in progress . Hopefully we'll have the motor in by spring and be driving it. Don't like the rear bumper either. Thanks for all the great tips and ideas.

1950 B1-C from Brewer Oil Co. One of their original delivery trucks.

Crappy old farm trucks always look good at night

The most common swap is a Jeep Cherokee axle, it's approx. 1" narrower than stock, same ujoint, same driveshaft length, and same lug pattern as stock. Plus there's a mind boggling number of gear ratios and lockers available if you need a little extra traction. When I did mine, I just buzzed the old perches off and grabbed some trailer perches from farm and fleet

Do you have the proper Dodge shop manual? They have a good section on trouble shooting these transmission systems. Not downshifting could be electrical or hydraulic related. Regarding your comment on the interrupter switch. One of my shop manuals reads: Ignition Interrupter Resistor Check: With engine running ground the blue wire on the resistor, or at the interrupter switch. This should stall the engine. If the engine does not stall, either the blue wire from the interruptor switch to the resistor, the resistor itself, or the blue wire from the resistor to the coil is at fault. My understanding is, when you floor the accelerator when in 4th, at certain speed, the carb linkage sends a signal to the interruptor switch. It sends the ignition system coil to ground momentarily to remove engine power (load) from the transmission, to allow for a down-shift. There is also an anti-stall control on the carb. This is a dashpot to control a slow closing of the throttle. It prevents stalling upon quick release of the throttle. It appears there are several systems to check. A good Mopar manual is highly recommended. Several of the tests are simple, done with a continuity light.