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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/03/2019 in all areas

  1. Had the chance to help make some wedding memories for a couple.
    3 points
  2. A pic of the 28 I mentioned.
    2 points
  3. Idle is set at 600 on my car. When I "use" Fluid Drive at a stop sign it idles down to 450rpms. Set your idle up a bit and retest? Just my opinion.
    1 point
  4. Eric, The color was listed as "Dodge Truck Green" for 1951 in the Sherwin Williams paint books. The truck was originally black but I wanted a green truck and got one Brad
    1 point
  5. No, the steel plates are to hold the old leather in place. If you have every seen an NOS leather boot, they come with them on either end, they just come off over time. Use the modern rubber boot without anything. It is not a friction issue of sliding. It is that the PCV or thick rubber ones are so thick that the distance from the the underside of the tire rod housing to the face of the spindle arm (or drag link) is not enough to accommodate a thick wall boot. When you tighten the nut you bind that material between the two. The solution is to use a much thinner boot. James.
    1 point
  6. Thanks for the tip on the jeep diff. My current diff is the factory optional 3.73 so I'm wanting to find out just how well it drives with that ratio. Brakes are a concern but until I get a chance to drive it I don't want to make any conversion decisions. Truth be told I'm probably getting to old to drive fast!!! Thanks! Brad
    1 point
  7. Here is a link to a 1930 operators guide, don't imagine there many major changes in two years. http://oldcarbrochures.org/United States/Dodge/1930_Dodge_Brothers/1930_Dodge_Six_Instruction_Book/index.html
    1 point
  8. And the only one facing south in a northbound row.
    1 point
  9. I thought about that when I took this picture. Stay tuned!?
    1 point
  10. All done minus the strut welding. It is less obtrusive than I thought it would be- a nice detail that doesn’t stand out too much. It’d be fun to get a pic with one of those heat seeker cameras after a nice cruise.
    1 point
  11. Ha! I picked the hood up at the shop today, deburred, sanded, and degreased it. I decided to do a better job than usual since this will be the worst part to sand in the future. I got some black eastwood epoxy primer and it lays on pretty nicely. That’ll do for now to match the black truck and protect the raw sliced metal. I still have to clean up, paint, and weld the rear hood structure/ supports back in. The hood is pretty stiff with the work hardened sections from punching but I like the scissoring hold-up bars. This pic is the first coat of primer. 1/2 hour coat intervals and it’ll need a scuff before topcoating if I ever get around to making this pic a little nicer.
    1 point
  12. If your quick enough, you can remove the drain plug and put your thumb over the hole, replace the washer and put the drain plug back in. You'll only lose a little bit of oil, maybe a 1/4 of a quart. Just be sure you can put the washer on with one hand or have some one do it for you. Joe Lee
    1 point
  13. Finally picked up my B-1-J from the storage lot its been sitting in for a year and a half. Replaced the plugs and it runs so much smoother. Need to rebuild the carb but no auto parts stores have a kit for it. Engine is a 251 from a 62' Powerwagon and is mated to the original 5 speed. It was an old grain truck with a dump bed in southern Idaho. Now onto the brakes but I gotta find a heavier duty jack for this large hunk of metal!
    1 point
  14. Today I used my truck to tow my Suburban to a shop for tail pipe repair and safety check. CHP/DMV Monday the 28th. Things are looking up!
    1 point
  15. 1 point
  16. Little show time this weekend.
    1 point
  17. Brought it in on a rainy day. Figure this is how i want it to look. Pretty much how i found it. I unsiezed it that day, unstuck the valves and resumed working on it yesterday, 2 weeks later. checked for spark,it has after cleaning the points. cleaned carb and put some gas in the bowl. It fires and runs for a few seconds,not bad for sitting since the 70's. so onto rad and hoses, a belt and try to keep it running for a few minutes. I used a slant 6 rad,it should be enough for this part. 12 volt conversion coming up,and time to start hunting for parts. Grille is gone, front engine isolator is broken, bumper is shredded.
    1 point
  18. So this is just a thread im writing for reference. To give someone a bit more info on the swap if they search for it and are thinking about it. My car is a 37 chrysler Royal 4 door. I had the 4.30 gear. It sucked bad. I bought a 3.55 rear end from a 96 Cherokee complete drum to drum. Typlicaly you find the Dana 35 but i lucked out and wound up with a Chrysler 8.25. Its a bit stronger im told. It measured about 3/4" narrower then the '37 axle. No biggie. I had to cut the shock mounts, and spring perches off. I used the perches off the '37 axle and welded them on the bottom of the jeep axle. I was able to bolt it in using the chrysler royal u-bolts. I did have to get a new drive line built. It needed to be 54 9/16" from the flange on the back of the O/D unit to the center of the u-joint on the axle. The new drive line had to have a slip yoke in place. I cut the ebrake cables off at the backing plates and just kept the original parking brake in the 37. I had to adapt the rear brake lines from the chrysler to the jeep, but running the newer rear brakes has made a huge difference in stopping power. Id say its partly due to the smaller diameter rear wheel cylinders taking less volume to move, and also im sure i never had the old brakes adjusted right anyway. But it stops much better! I will say, if you're thinking about better gearing... Do it! This swap isnt hard at all if you can do some cutting and welding. I paid $100 for the axle, and another $375 for the brand new drive shaft. Before the swap, I could do about 55-60 in overdrive and it sounded like it was wound to tight. I know it would probably do it all day but i felt it was revving too high. Now it will cruise on the freeway doing 75 and its nice and easy. And on the back roads it does 50-55 in 3rd. Im glad i got the 3.55 gears but a 3.23 would have been just a bit better. 3.73s seem a bit more common but i dont think it would have been ideal for my car. Another benefit i to the swap, for me anyway, is the horrendous vibration i had at cruising speed is completely gone. Its super smooth now. Now to get some seat belts in this thing so i can take the kids over the pass this summer!
    1 point
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