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Cleaned up the 36 and sold it a couple of weeks ago to buy this. Might keep this one??

these in blue:

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/faulty-alternators-quick-test Saw this test a while back, thought I post it for Plymouthy and others that may have interest. Have never had a problem with the GM 1 wire alt. that I have used, but you never know. DJ

JB, I would do a Google search with site: p15-d24.com shifter column The thread number is no longer valid as it is over 4 years old and used the old forum format. Google actually does a pretty extensive index of the entire site (it has a special "backdoor" for it's search engine) and it is the best way to pull up really old threads.

Here's what happened, PG&E raised rates many times over the years for maintenance and upgrades that never happened. What did happen is: 1. they blew up 1/2 half of a neighborhood because they didn't do the maintenance they were supposed to do and said they did to a 3 foot gas line. We got charged for it and they again raised rates to cover the settlement. 2. stopped maintaining their fire clearance and lines and said they did and wanted to raise rates to cover the fire lawsuits 3. Punish CA by cutting power

If it's the original flat head 6 engine it came from the factory with hardened valve seats. If work was done and the seats were replaced with other hardened ones there's nothing special you need to do. It should run fine on any pump gas available in your town. I tend to run mid-grade or premium in my truck as I feel it runs slightly better. But it still runs just fine on regular old 87 unleaded with 10% ethanol. However, I would caution you about running 10% ethanol fuel if you don't have a fuel pump and hoses that have modern rubber in them. It will kill older rubber components. If in doubt get a fuel pump rebuild kit from the good folks at Antique Auto Parts Cellar. http://www.then-now-auto.com/fuel-pumps/

Here is a good video on how to rebuild these carbs, they are pretty simple.

If you do need to rebuild the carburetor, here is the link to the kit I used and am very happy with. The Carburetor Doctor - https://www.carbkitsource.com/

I don't really have an answer for you on the rebuild kits or carbs but I would suggest filling a 5 gallon can with gas, adding in a can (or two) of Sea Foam and then run a line from your fuel pump inlet to the gas can. I've solved more carburetor problem this way that I have rebuilding them. I've found Sea Foam to be a really good product. Brad

That appears to be a 51-53 with the rare VW camper shell package.... So most of the responses were for a 48-50 truck. Sounds like you found a fix. Thumbs up! 48D

Nice mirrors Robin, I just bought a set for my 51 based on how yours look.

I ordered the quarter glass from The bob’s link above. Mostly because I was curious and it’s only money, you can’t take it with you and you can always get more. see pics, the new glass has red tape on it. pic1 new on top old on bottom pic2 comparing curve new on the inside of the old pic3 same as 2 but new is on the outside of the old pic4 you can see it’s a shade thicker, no I didn’t measure it. pic5 the dot label

If that truck has been parked awhile, check to see if the distributor advance plate is not stuck...I experienced a frozen plate on my first Dodge resurrection where the weights would not move, so the engine idled fine but I couldn't accelerate on the road...this stuck plate caused damage to the vacuum advance by tearing the rotting diaphragm...I would eventually send that distributor to Burton L. Norton for their rebuild service as they had access to good replacements parts and a Sun Machine to check and adjust everything to specs...cost a hefty sack of pennies back in "99, but I haven't needed to do anything other than annual lubrication and check adjustments since... grey beard had some good info on distributors...

First off, welcome to the family... The first thing to check is the accelerator pump in the carburetor. Remove the air filter and look down the carb with a flashlight while moving the throttle linkage. When you open the throttle, as in stepping on the pedal, you should see a squirt of fuel from the accelerator pump jet. If not, then you'll need to open up the carb and clean out that circuit. May as well get a kit and do the whole carb at that point.

My second year flying over to the UK and attending the picnic. So well received and had so much fun. I hope I can keep attending for many years to come!

Perfect answer. 48D

That ain't nick picking, that's just your true love showing for these old trucks....awesome that you notice something as simple as that. 48D

I think the larger contributor to any mythical crud getting in there isn't from the hole for the wire to pass thru, but from between the whisker and the body panel. That being said, I think your image above's bigger contributor would be the missing door, glass, and reflector allowing crud to settle there. Even ART by my firepit has whiskers that are solid and he's likely never had a wash in his life, much less someone worrying about crud. PUMA also has solid whiskers....

Some pics from P 15 USA Sept 20 - 21 2019

2019 has been a challenging year, in many ways...underlying all of the other things going on is my current mode of transportation since I sold The Blue Bomber last year. Dad bought this QuadCab new, took care of it as his daily driver, then about 2007 practically parked it in the barn with 150k highway miles on it and a brand new set of tires, as his work issued him a work truck. He drove it maybe once a month locally, occasionally pulling a heavy load, but for the most part it just collected dust and spiders. Late winter 2015 he called me about it not shifting into OD when it was chilly in the morning, but my warm afternoon test drive told me it was OK, he got all worked up about pulling the transmission and having it rebuilt but I whoa'd him up on that by explaining the downside of pursuing that course of action without blurting out "it's a durn waste of $$$". The eventual transmission service and adjustments helped greatly, but the throttle still needs to be feathered around 40mph to kick the thing into OD. In early 2016, I started driving it once a week to exercise the tires so they wouldn't flat-spot so bad, as my annual request of him doing this for years had not been done. This was when I 1st noticed the random Brake + ABS warning lights illuminating on the instrument panel. The truck ran fine, stopped on a dime and gave 9 cents change, but there was no clear scenario that would cause these warning lights to come on, as they would shut off on the next drive. That Labor Day weekend, I capitalized on some online discounts and replaced those 9 yr old tires that were crumbling, basically bought 2 tires and got 2 for free. When I got the truck alignment checked, the tech pointed out the front suspension wear, so that October I rebuilt the front suspension. A few days after getting the new rubber, I was zipping down a back road one night when the ABS lights came on again...a few minutes later, a varmint wandered into the roadway, I jammed on the brakes, all 4 tires locked up, flat-spotting them new tires and making me grit my teeth on subsequent highway trips as that truck vibrated for several hunnnert miles before they wore down a little bit. About a year later, I noticed a few symptoms that the FSM pointed to a defective hydroboost unit. It had developed an internal leak, which eventually dripped onto the cab carpet. About a year after that, one of the 2 yr old tires became damaged, so I replaced it and one more (that went to the spare) to have new tires on the front wheels for winter. And within a week, with another random ABS light on, I flat-spotted the tires again doing less than 30 when another driver veered into my lane near a What-A-Burger...GRRRRR! I had been studying this random ABS light issue for months, and the FSM pointed to failing ABS sensors...all 3 fell apart during removal, so I assumed that was the problem; during the front sensor removal, I noticed that the original hubs were squeaking, so I replaced them at 195k and kinda chalked that expensive repair up to being at the right place at the right time. But just in time for Christmas, the ABS warning light made its random appearance once again... This year's wet winter and spring have seemingly exacerbated the brake issues as the random ABS lights were increasing in occurrences to the point where they started to stay on for days before turning off for brief periods. In March, I had to haul a heavy load and noticed a problem with the trailer brakes dragging...further investigation found that the truck brake pedal would take 3 seconds to spring back...the FSM pointed to replacing the power steering pump that fed the hydroboost, but the pump replacement had no effect on the pedal return...GRRRRR!Sitting in Waco traffic in April, the brake pedal started going to the floor, and the rebuilt replacement needed to be re-bled 18 times over the next 4 weeks because of recurring spongy pedal...about the same time, the rebuilt hydroboost also started to leak, so both of those were replaced under warranty. But the random ABS lights and slow pedal return persisted all summer, causing me to study the FSM and search similar problems on the internets to try to straighten this old buggy out...the last piece of the puzzle was to replace the non-serviceable and no longer available ABS hydraulic control unit with an '03 unit that several sources said would not fit my '01 yet both had the same part numbers stamped into them...this repair seems to have shut off the ABS lights for now, and a rigorous test drive got the "new" ABS pump more active than the original, so maybe this issue has been resolved... Ultimately, I replaced every brake system component on this 18yr old buggy except for the ABS control module, the metal brake hydraulic lines on the frame, the brake pedal, and the brake lights...apparently, the 18 yr old brake fluid was contaminated with moisture over time, causing most of the brake system's rubber components to swell, which caused seal leakage, caliper binding, and HCU proportional valve corrosion. The brake pedal still does not snap back in less than a second, so maybe the brake lines (which I inspected externally, even dropping the diesel tank for access) have some fouling and may need replacing...further testing is necessary. With this old Dodge fixed up a little bit, maybe I'll have the time to fix up some of the other old Dodges decorating the yard UPDATE: Brake issues continued for 4 months longer until resolved by replacing defective calipers and hydroboost

There are wheel repair kits out there (I used a POR product on FEF). You V out the crack, fill it with an epoxy sand down and refinish.

I'd refer to that as being a bit lower and at the rear of your body.....?

I have converted to 12 volts. I located this tachometer on eBay several years back and I paid less than ten bucks. It took a bit of searching to find one that only goes to six grand. It has worked flawlessly for several years. This photo was taken before I shifted into 5th gear. When I shifted the RPM's dropped to around 2400.