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Mom with Roger Dodger..

I watched a few You Tube videos. Bought a double flare tool. I practiced a few times. Wrecked a few flares. Got it right and now build all my own lines. I am confident enough now to put all new fuel or brake lines on my vehicles. The bending and shaping can seem tricky but it’s not. With a little practice you’ll have developed the skill and eye to get it right. A couple of different types bending tools is helpful. Rewarding too , when you get it right.

Just checked the Monroe 34803 shocks at Rock Auto are $24.50 after applying the 5% discount code

Oooh la la.

Don't buy the leather boots! Even Master Tech warns against those! They keep dirt and water in and lubricant out. Here is a link to the u-joint filmstrip. You can skip to 11:00 to see the dust cover info. http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=524

It sure does. Recently got it running since purchasing and took it for a drive, couldn't take my eyes off the road. Fortunately I found tie rod ends and kit for drag link. Fingers crossed on King pins..

Cheesecake, Guinness and a P-15 Picnic souvenir notebook... The perfect table setting! It was great to see you again Mark.

Thanks Todd and wldavis3! I got a new job on Saturday. Vic at Vic's Dodge Garage hired me to do his Dodge speedo's and gauges. No more messing with e-Bay!!!!!!!!!!

I'm using my 41 plymouth bell. Regular 3 on the tree trans. So we started on the machining today. We bored out the bell housing to register the bearing retainer plate. We also moved the two top studs down and drilled and tapped for a piece of angle iron for the lower bolts. These stepsare the same as shown in this thread previously. However that is where I'm moving in a different direction. Robert used the original dodge bearing retainer by bolting it to the ranger's retainer thereby using the dodges throw out bearing. The Rangers front plate (bearing retainer) is pretty thin walled and i don't want to risk having it crack after many miles. So after table inspection and mock up we are ditching the throw out bearing and using the Rangers hydraulic bearing. I'll post pictures of that as we wrap this up.

So is starting foolish threads all the time what I get to look forward too when I get 80?

Lucas never smoked a harness in his life.....you have to have a completed circuit to ground for that to happen....Now had that been a box of GROUNDS....or LIQUID SWITCH JUMPERS..it would very much be appropriate....

Okay Gents, a little clarification is in order here.Fiirst off, initial timing is always set at slow, hot idle - NOT at 1200 tpm. This is necessary so that the centrifugal advance weights under the breaker plate in your distributor do not begin to come out and add additional advance. If you set your timing at speeds above slow idle, you are likely getting some centrifugal timing in the mix, which will affect the reading of your timing lighr. Timing on our flatties is important but not real critical. You want as much advance - turn the distributor counter clockwise to adance - as the engine will tolerate without preignition. Usually this boils down to four to six degrees before top dead center. Too much advance, and you get pinging. Too little advance, and the engine runs hotter, burns more fuewl and has less power. As to identifying your acceleragor pump. you really must find a shop manual to know this stuff. It shows a break-down of each part and each circuit. Our Caarter carbs are quite simple and easy to work on, but they must be right to work as they should. I won't attempt to explain the entire carburetor, except to say that at idle, the engine uses the circuit that you adjust with the small screw on the lower side that has a spring behind the head. At higher speeds, the idle circuit is no longer working and the main metering circuit is used. This includes the main jet in the bottom of the fuel bowl and the vengturi cluster in the carb throat. When you accelerate from idle to higher speeds, a hesitation will take place between these two circuits. The accelerator pumop is just a squirter that richens the mixture momentarly on acceleration. Nothig more, nothing less. Terrell Macchine rebuilds old vacuum advances. Bernbaum and Roberts also carry these new. Either way, they are spendy - like $65 to 75 a pop. Good Luck