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The slow lane is often the best lane.

Looks a lot like New England

Also made a visit to Ilkka Koskenheimos collection in Kotka Finland. He's done a fine job restoring these cars.

Tommi pumping expensive litres into the tank.

Tommi on the left, myself center and our friend Martin from Sweden on the right.

I got mine from my local O'Reilly's Auto Parts for my 48 P15. The part numbers are MPC ES158R and MPS ES158L, the same Moog numbers as Rock Auto shows. They are $22.00 each, at O'Reilly's, with Limited Lifetime Warranty. They have been on my car since August. Be very careful threading them into the tie rods. They have fine threads, and are quite easy to cross thread. Don't ask me how I know.....

Well, I thought I'd give a small update on the COE. Progress towards starting on the COE project has made a huge leap in the right direction. My wife and I are in the process of buying a new house that is very equipped to handle my hobby needs! We're buying a nice house in the county with no neighbors to speak of, more than enough land (more grass than I wanted), a stick built 30x50 shop, and a 40x60 pole barn. I have no idea how I'm going to fill up the pole barn, but I'm sure I'll figure it out in no time! The current owners were nice enough to let me park it there until they move out, so I was able to take the COE there this past weekend. It's still going to be difficult to find time to work on it with our baby, but it'll get there eventually.

Some of you that have been here a while know that I have a hard time staying in one place for too long. Fortunately my employer has sent me around the world for work more times than I can count. Whats even more fortunate is that this affords me a special ability to actually shake hands and develop great friendships in person with a lot of other old mopar owners. Last year I made 9 trips to Sydney Australia as I was building a new office near the airport and met a Neville Bennett on several of the trips. He and I toured many places in Sydney I would have never have gotten to see if it weren't for his generosity with his time. But I fast forward to these last two weeks and include a few pictures of my visit with another P15 owner in the area of Helsinki Finland. Tommi (who is also on this forum) met me in London for the P15 picnic. (To his credit he trusted his life to me driving on the left side of the road for three days)... After the picnic we took for a few days in Finland and ripped up the roads to the west of Helsinki in his P15 business coupe. I cant advocate travel and meeting people on their own turf enough.

...can it be done without removing the upper control arm (and the entire steering knuckle support assembly!)? What about the spring? - Does it need any further support/compression but the car resting on lower control arm (on a jack)? What I am asking; Is it a)possible, b)safe, just to remove the upper arm outer pin, tilting the steering knuckle support outwards and pull the bushing off, install new bushing and dust seals and finally the pin again? - all of it done while the car is supported on a jack under the lower control arm spring seat. (the below pic. is not dodge, but close enough... ignore the part numbers)

My guess is he was looking for something else that may have been worth the stop. I’ve had my fair share of warnings and I’m very thankful for that. I have nothing but respect for the law enforcement.

Exact same results when I changed mine out from the NAPA GL1 to the MT 90. Since you will probably never have to change it again, price is worth it....

What effect do you get from your Johnson grass? Southern prices these days? ? The stuff I grow gets rave reviews and I grow it at home, no artificial lights or anything unnatural! ??? Hope ya know I'm kidding! DJ

Pictures of the wiring harness being constructed in Pasadena in my little apartment. Also pictures of the engine being built.

I came to the same conclusion as to the cost effectiveness of the Harbor Freight dolly. I disassembled the dolly and cut up a 2x6 and steel shelving legs I had laying around. It's not as robust as yours, but I'm into it for the $9.99 cost of the dolly!

Passing under one of Finlands famous land bridges on the east-west highway between Helsinki and Lappeenranta. These bridges are built to makes sure the wildlife can traverse to the other side of the road safely

Hanging out at Tommi's place in Artjarvi Finland.

At the time I was looking to buy the floor mat I was deep in the middle of a complete house remodel. It was kinda hard to justify the price BUT I also knew the odds of finding another one were slim and none. What prompted the search for a mat was I had bought a "repro" on ebay about two months prior and it wasn't worth putting in the truck. So not only had I just spent $67 I was now having to spend an additional $189.50 for a proper mat. Still worth it however. I'm in total agreement about using NOS parts versus repops. There's usually a night and day difference between the two. Brad

do I hear..….PAY TO PLAY...…?? this is sad but true and it pertains to any hobby one has.....why I quit firing my 40MM Howitzer ...lol

Beautiful truck Randall. Introduce yourself and post a picture of your truck in the, "Lets see a picture of your truck" the first tread in the truck forum on this site. As stated rear main seal is a very common location for engine oil leaks on these engines. I would clean the area up then drive for a while, you can blow some talc or flour etc, in the wet oil areas to see where the oil is tracking from.

Last time I had a big clean up and moving bits around the shed I made up some wheeled frames for the engines to be stored. I wish this area looked this clean now. Never enough stands when you need them as well. Tony

another deficiency of the B-3s...that trim piece I've seen on parts trucks and survivors full of dirt, sand and rust ranging from pinholes to rot...they designed a gap in there, but it clogs up quick from roostertails flung on unimproved roads

I found this Authentic 1948-53 full sized 49"×38" dealership poster at a outdoor antique flea market

I did a clutch job on a 1956 1/2 ton PU that had the R10 OD in it a few years back. An original truck..

well if the Caddy frame is junk he can do a frame and engine swap with a Chrysler! ? DJ

Dodge trucks... as far as I know never offered an OD on any 1/2 ton PU's 1941 -52. They did in the bigger 1-1/2 tonners starting in around 1951 in the 5 speeds...4th direct, 5th OD gear.

Something like those would look pretty cool. If all else fails, Ive got an idea....... Ya cant go wrong with an Air Grabber

yeah you did! I like it a lot 9 foot box!

that is great news Joe! take your time and get life in order. take it from a self proclaimed lazy hobby farmer......... get a couple goats

Very nice set up you have purchased. Nice to see the COE has a good home and someone who appreciates it. Always like updates to this thread.

congrats on the new place! Nothing wrong with stashing the COE safely indoors until you have some time

good for you....wish you all success.....and hey...get a good lawn mower.....ya gonna need it.

I've never seen a bald guy ever part with a comb...!

I've got a yard decorated with one of each... B-1s that have that rad.brace that doubles as a bridle bit when checking the brake fluid, B-3s that have hoods that tear because of inadequate bracing...this contrived competition is like watching two bald guys fight over a comb

After you kill the rust you need to dry it out and then seal it with an Epoxy primer. Its high in resin and designed to keep moisture out. Its technically not sandable because of its tough exterior. You are suppose to spray a sandable primer over the Epoxy primer. A good Urethane primer for shaping, then an Epoxy as a sealer (thinned) over that . In the old days, you'd use an etching primer (acid based) but that's not used much anymore. I only use etching primers in areas I can't sand very well (the inside trunks and doors etc) Its acid based which is why most don't use it anymore for complete jobs. Etching primers are thin, and didn't always hold the oxygen out like Epoxy's do now. Epoxy primers come in black......some guys stop right there and call it done, until it needs more black. 48D

There is no rivalry, we all know the B3 is the superior design.

Used to work in a plating shop. Muriatic acid is fast for rust removal, but it also will rust right before your eyes when you take it out. Phosphoric acid is a LOT slower, but it doesn't rust after taking it out. In fact, I have a bare piece of steel that I never got painted after I took it out of my acid bath back in around 81 or so. It still has not rusted. (I didn't rinse it off, just let the acid dry.)

Here is a NOS floor mat for my 1951 B3B I bought about 20 years ago. Someday I hope to actually install it in my truck! Brad

Found thi diagnostic tool for $3.50 today. Pretty happy about it. Works really well! Very sensitive. I look forward to trying it out on a noisy bearing.

Added link to your post.

I changed the air filter setup after some input from Tim. This setup is much less restrictive. It will require some extra work but that's the way things go.

Grandpa gave me this one. Said old cars need old tools.

On my slant 6 I used brass nuts and the high temp antiseize when I did the rebuild. Never know when its gonna have to come apart again. I think I did the same thing when I did the valve job in the 230 in my 49 1 ton.

its the grapevines that is the cats meow to smoke.....

IMO there should never be any local city or county officers patrolling or baiting by speed trap on any interstate system as these are federal roads and patrolled by the state......further it is usually not the duties of the sheriff's office to enforce speed limits. Lord knows they have enough on them attending domestic issues.

Everyone knows they finally got it right with the B4 and the superior rear fender design!