Leaderboard

I don’t post many pictures, but I have enjoyed looking at everyone else’s projects so here’s what I’ve been able to accomplish with a lot of advice and information from everybody here. This has been a little over a year and half project to this point, with a lot more to go. Complete tear down and rebuild of my wife’s great uncle’s pickup that he bought new in 1948. It sat in a pasture since 1964 after his passing until we brought it to our place in May of 2018. It sure was a pretty cool moment when the motor fired for the first time in 55 years.

Hello all! I'm new to the Mopar world and I've been having some confusion about getting spares for my car. I have a 1949 Plymouth; which by most online resources is a P-18. However, I have the original bill of sale and it's described as an early 49 with a vin starting with P15 (also matches the title and vin on the car) My question is, do I buy parts for a 48 P-15 to fit my 49? Thanks in advance!

The cheapest store brand gear oil will be leaps and bounds better than what was available back during B-series production...it will be cleaner out of the bottle and have stronger, more durable cleaning additives. Synthetics will give you peace of mind knowing ya spent more $$$ on something with negligible performance gains. Stick with what the book says to use to keep the bearings happy, thinner grades might start seeping out of multiple orifices...these old gearboxes were designed for work and durability, not for speed and efficiency, so maintain it as recommended in the manual...one subtle maintenance suggestion that I've picked up from multiple sources is to change ALL oils at a minimum of every other year...I believe this has to do with removing oils contaminated with condensation to protect bearings and gears from abnormal wear and remove emulsions

We just held our 5th Annual P-15 Picnic in England and were delighted to welcome a record number of owners and cars for two days of Plymouth-filled fun. With Mark joining us from the USA, Tommi travelling from Finland, Martin from Sweden and cars gathering from all over the UK, it was a very special weekend. The weather wasn't great, but the atmosphere was superb, with cruise-outs to two local museums and a lovely dinner and dancing at the hotel. The line-up of cars was truly impressive, with a total of fifteen P15s or derivatives and several 'guest' classics. We'll be doing it all again in September 2020... you're all welcome to join us! Here's the roll of honor: 1946–1948 Plymouth and Derivatives: 242 UYE - 4-Door Sedan - John & Elly 424 YUJ - Business Coupe – Simon & Julie 562 YUG – Convertible Coupe – Chris & Rebecca 763 UYX – 4-Door Sedan (D25) - Richard & Karen 774 UXB – 4-Door Sedan - Garry & Gaynor 782 XUL – 2-Door Sedan - Dean & Joyce 977 XUP – Club Coupe - Colin & Liz ESK 523 – Club Coupe – Mel & Sue MSJ 674 – Club Coupe - Ian & Marie UVS 437 – Club Coupe (SP15) - Dusty & Deb WXG 507 – Business Coupe – Tony & Dawna WXG 932 - Business Coupe – Alan & Annette XAS 458 – Convertible Coupe – Robin & Colette YVL 306 – Business Coupe - Terry & Amanda YWG 566 – Club Coupe - Steve & Hayley 1946–1948 Chrysler: 268 XUR - Club Coupe – William Guest Cars: 1927 Ford T Hot Rod 1937 Plymouth – Russ & Steph 1938 Ford 1939 Dodge – Simon 1940 Plymouth – Nigel & Jan 1947 Nash – Bob & Irene 1948 Chevrolet – Richard & Lynne 1953 Buick 1953 Plymouth Convertible – Paul & Rita 1953 Chevrolet – Rob & Sue 1975(?) Dodge Truck – Spud & Katie

Great weekend, Great people, Thanks go to Robin and crew for organising the event. Looking forward to next year. Mines the Grey Bus. Coupe in the first photo been on the forum since 2013, car was imported by the previous owner in 2012. It was built in L.A. and been around the San Francisco area for most of it's live that i know about. I've had to completely replace brakes, fit new fuel tank and have a new prop shaft made in the time I've owned it. Jobs for this winter include new screen rubber, investigate a knocking in the engine and fit new rear shackle bushes. regards to all ........ Simon.

Dad, Rim arrived. Largest that will likely fit all the way around. I checked it in the rear as its the tightest fit. Its a 15x6 rim for a 225/75R15 tire (same size as your 47 Chevy truck.) With that tire size, looks like our inside clearance between inflated tire and steel fender/inner fender well will be 1+" to fender and about 2" to inner fender well. Shes bright. I'll drop it off to get a Hankook Optimo or similar white wall mounted and balanced tomorrow. When its back I'll check fit again with weight on the rubber. If its good, will be ordering 3 more to shoe up Ol Bessy. Also, your third brake light will be red bullets on the license plate. Naturally, one broke on assembly so.......I have a do over to do but, they look pretty good. Since one broke I'll try to find some antique jeweled red glass lights instead of these LED models. But, assembled and wired here for proof of concept. Work to do in the woods tomorrow, rifle season starts Sat. Will be hunting the AM sat with Uncle Vic's WWII capture rifle. In between times I'll keep moving forward on the brakes. But at least today, I got new lug studs pulled into the axle and I have the axle brake lines and hoses now. So, moving quickly forward. Probably 2 to 4 full days work and then I think I must dung out the shop and start removing the front sheet metal. You see, we are rapidly approaching the need to purchase the engine, trans and cooling system.....Right on time/target. All is well. Don't quit your day job, its about to get expensive!

Trunk latch from a P15 won't fit on the D24. I tried that once...it'll bolt on, but the shaft on the lever is too short.

The tail housing you need is the later B/E body style. Chrysler had two basic versions of the A833, the short on that you have. It only has one shifter location, there is no short version with a forward mount. There are two versions of the long tail housing, one has two mounts, that;s the later B/E style, the other only has the forward mount, that's the early B style. Tail shafts also need to match tail housing length. I have a couple of the late B/E style A833's in my spares pile. Might have to look at this swap. Truck applications used a plate to relocate the shifter forward and up, someone posted a pic in this thread.

with a little help from some friends....

There are a few oil caps to maintain on these old cars, most are awkward to get to. I use to always carry a zoom oil bottle with me when I had to maintain several swamp coolers. They have the same oil cups.

Funny that I never heard about the jet-powered buggy, as this is at our local airport, outside of Millersburg, Ohio. (The airport is about 12 miles from our little town, I'd say.) (Oh, I guess I saw an earlier video, from October of last year.)

That's what happens when you have too much money and time on your hands.

One more.

I did find some pics of my doors before disassembly, showing the original cardboard door card installation. I got my interior from Quiet Ride Solutions. https://www.quietride.com/index.html I've been very happy with it since completion. It is made from ABS plastic that can be painted, with the proper paint. I went through some struggles during the install process that I have documented on this forum. I didn't use the push button fasteners with the new one, just new stainless screws with trim washers.

I knew the engine was not (currently) the original, that one needs a rebuild. So I decoded the engine number. Seems it is a 230ci engine, 1958 from a D100. Cool! When I rebuild the original one, I plan on using this crank and rods to keep the displacement Some days are better than others.

first...don't assume you have a bad sender without first checking continuity of the wire and verifying your tank ground.....when these are proven, then go through your tests.....

I just have a 250.6 Six (C-38). So I may be off on some of the Numbers here however my Manual shows a C-39 (323 Eight) as follows: 1. Set Points at 18 Thousands 2. Check Dwell @ 27 -30 3. Start - set Timing 2-6 BTDC (Lean toward 6 because of modern Gas) 4. Use Vacume Gauge to set Carburator Mixture @ 19-21 Deg of Mercury (Or as high as you can get it) 5 Set RPM Last (usually in the 450 range at Idle for a six. 6. Use a decent Tach and Dwell with a RPM Gauge to set things up correctly No run good - something wrong - Conduct tests - Compression Test Cylinders - Vacumm Leaks with Starter fluid around Intake Manifold Gaskets etc etc