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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/30/2019 in all areas

  1. About a month ago, my car died on me a few miles from the house. Towed it back to the house, went to troubleshoot found the points carboned up. Cleaned them, car started just fine for a day or two. Then it was hard starting all the time. Changed the points and condenser, no luck. Check the plugs they were fouled so I changed them (they were about 5 years old and rusty from water in the plug wells), no dice. Checked the timing, since I pulled the distributor and may have put it in 180 out (we've all done it), nope. Put my spark checker inline on the number 1 plug, Sparked in fits and was a yellowish color, AH HA getting some where. Rechanged the condenser (cause you know how the new ones from China are hit or miss) no change. Checked out the rotor and cap, the rotor looked good and the inside of the cap was fine no cracks that I could see and no scoring or arcing. So now my aggravation level is up there since I park the car on the side of the house away from the garage and can't start it to move it, so I'm walking across the yard and back for tools and stuff in 95 degree sunshine and 200 billion percent humidity. So I'm thinking maybe the carb, so I pull it and take it apart, clean it and reassemble put it back in and nothing. Now I'm half bald from pulling my hair out. By the way this is over the course of 3 or 4 days, So after the last attempt and running the battery down for the 3rd time, I'm setting on the porch thinking about dynamite to solve this problem, I started cooling down and realized it has to be the cap and rotor. I mean I changed everything else, the old plugs, the points and condenser with about 20,000 miles on them, cleaned the carb and that was the only thing left. So I order the tune up kit from Andy B's. It gets here on Saturday I open it on Sunday and go to install it. Pulling of the old cap I see the coil wire contact to the cap has green corrosion all over it and the center hole looks like something left in the fridge for about 3 months. My guess is the boot hardened up and the vibration let it weep moisture in there over time. If I would have checked the cap wires sooner when I check the cap, I could have saved myself some heart burn and hair, but for some reason it never crossed my mind that that could be the problem. As much as I've seen on this forum to check the grounds and wires for corrosion (even offered that advice from time to time) it was a brain fart of immense proportions. Oh well live and re-learn. So now I'm ready to reassemble and the cap from Andy B's....It's the wrong cap. It just goes to show that sometimes Murphy can homestead you and there is nothing you can do except wait him out. I hope you like my tale of woe and maybe learn a little something. 1. It's always something simple on these cars. 2. Proper troubleshooting can never steer you wrong. And finally 3. Check the %%$#^ grounds and wires for corrosion. Joe Lee
    3 points
  2. Welcome aboard........as far as I know all the plugs are 1 & 5/8th.......I always replace steel plugs with brass, they never rust out .......but if the rear crossmember doesn't unbolt then I'm thinking that maybe pulling the engine might be the easiest option..........as even with the bellhousing etc off you still may not have enough clearance to remove let alone replace the plug as you have to be able to hit it with enough force to flatten the centre.......the last thing you want is to find that its leaking again..............ain't old cars fun?.............lol.................andyd
    2 points
  3. One of my old co-workers runs a new(er) shop and is building this:
    1 point
  4. My family had no Mopar products and I never owned one until 2000. My first Mopar (and the first one that I ever drove) was my 1958 Desoto Firesweep which I still have. My most recent Mopar experience was in fact driving that same car last weekend. Rebecca
    1 point
  5. My first Mopar Memory is when my brother and I received a call from our old preschool sunday school teacher asking my dad if us boys would like her old red 1975 Plymouth Fury. She had started pulling it out of her garage and accidentally scraped the left door on the garage door. We showed up and the car was as she left it, halfway out of the garage. She decided not to drive anymore and we picked up the car for $300. We had to replace the transmission cooler lines to be able to move the car. We took "Big Red" everywhere and I probably would still have it, if my dad hadn't sold it while I was away at college. One of my more recent outings with my 48 Dodge Coupe was on an 8-900 mile trek with our car club to Kalispell, MT. The old girl did great, other than a few hiccups trying to start her. I have intentions to build up my "new" motor this winter, and show of my rare wares, like Shanafelt Dual Intake with Holley 97s and Phillips Performance headers. We had several unique vehicles in our convoy, including one of Gene Autry's old tour buses. We found it in a someone's side yard and showed it to a friend who picked it up and refitted it with a Cummins and now drives it all over and on ski trips.
    1 point
  6. No parents were harmed in the making of this picture. We already established my dad can't spell, but he was watching me turn the drum puller without his shoes on so I think i there's much more not working with him. This really snaps back when it breaks loose so don't stand next to it waiting to receive it catcher style.
    1 point
  7. Not perfect, but better than it was. Found the bushings too.
    1 point
  8. With a little work and creativity, a volt meter can be adapted to the ammeter location, needle straight down at battery voltage, moves to the charge side when running. As long as it is on the charge side, you're over 13v.
    1 point
  9. My freeze plug inside my bellhousing went today. Does anyone know if this can be accessed without pulling the motor? Can I drop the trans and bell housing instead and replace it from there? What does that process look like? Where/how do I find freeze plugs that will fit?
    1 point
  10. Hello and welcome. If this were my car, I would remove the engine and replace all of the freeze plugs. Much easier to set them in this way. As was said, these plugs can be a headache and if one is leaking, the others probably aren't much better. With the engine out and all the plugs removed, you can flush out the cooling passages too. On one of my Plymouth's, I changed all the plugs and cleaned and painted the engine before putting it back. Good luck to you. John R
    1 point
  11. If the ammeter needle is deflected right of the center mark the alternator is charging. The meter operates, and is wired, the same way as with a generator.
    1 point
  12. In order to insure that nobody is left with the impression that the alternator vendor has presented erroneous info via his circuit diagram, I wish to offer the following clarification. A careful reading of the diagram shows current path (this diagram is for a neg ground vehicle) transitioning from the alternator to the loads in the car. The diagram indicates the load path may begin with a fuse panel, or an amp gauge, or a horn relay. The current then is passed out to the accessories. In our application, the first item in line from the alternator is the amp gauge just as is the case with the old generator. This is a series circuit and allows the ammeter to indicate loads being absorbed by the accessories. This diagram is correct and allows the ammeter to show a discharge if the lights are on without the engine running. I just checked my car and that is the way the ammeter works.......but I think I would be more apt to see the headlights left on rather than a deflection of the ammeter needle....
    1 point
  13. Your hood ornament would sure look good on my truck!? Nice job. ?
    1 point
  14. Thanks all! The solution 1 wire Alternator in an old fashioned Generator´s housing will be my choice. https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?category=145 It is 484 $, but it will be worth it for my wife (!) and me! :)) Greetings from Düsseldorf! Go
    1 point
  15. additional information - Spring Special Dash
    1 point
  16. John let me floor his dual carb L6 anyway I saw fit on the freeway in the Bay Area....it was impressive. Sanctioned racing is highly regulated, personal builds are not. I'm interested in how Fargone proceeds with his build. 48D
    1 point
  17. For my ongoing current project I needed some capture nuts.....while these can be ordered...they could not get them here yesterday...so last night a bit and after errands this morning..I got back on my task of making what I need. I have 31 assembled...(55 top hats made) and am thinking 27 is all I need for the entire project in all places...now who will help me weld these on said the little Red Hen.....
    1 point
  18. Really enjoy the updates, as always. Once I get a rear tire fixed on my Plymouth and this wretched wet weather goes away I can get my Plymouth out on the road again. Hoping for plenty of nice days in October!
    1 point
  19. On the hinges. Doors will be lighter to install and align without all the glass and hardware and once the doors are on, they are much more stable than they would be on a bench trying to install parts.
    1 point
  20. Looking great, keep up the updates and pics!!!
    1 point
  21. On my 1949 Desoto CV, I used the ECI front disc conversion. On the rear, I designed and made one myself. I am using a stock c.1951 single master cylinder with that pedal (the ratios were different between power and none power cars) and a trunk mounted midland-Ross remote power brake booster (Chrysler 1960-1964 RAM Induction cars or 1955-1957 T-Birds). The brakes are TOO strong. Like driving a 1960 Chrysler. If I were to do it again, and I will on my 1947 Desoto Suburban, I will use a dual master cylinder with the disc fronts and rear, but I will use the wilwood two piston calipers that one can use in place of the basic GM units. Less pedal effort with the two piston units. I will however make sure I have clearance for a booster like the one you show if it is not enough for the Suburban at 5500 pounds. James.
    1 point
  22. I am told I came home from the hospital in my moms 1949 Desoto Convertible. It went away when I was 10. It came back when I was 55 in the same shape with 45 years of storage. Now it is sitting in my garage restored. First photo is of my dad, no doubt taken by my mom sometime between 1949 and 1955. The Third photo is of me on my birthday with my first "ride" and the '49 in the background. The Second photo is recent.
    1 point
  23. We modified the same spring compressor for Nicholas's build in a slightly different way. We took out the snap ring and added a pipe fitting I had in a spare parts bin to take out the slack from the newer, longer tool. Note that In use, we put the pipe fitting in-between the two washers.
    1 point
  24. On the way to the Mid North Coast Hot Rod Clubs monthly run 3 weeks ago..........theres a pic of some old bastard driving the car there........and in pic #3 between the pink bucket and the green Model A you can just make out the 'ol brown turd at last weekends MNCHRC Lazy WinteRun.............regards, andyd
    1 point
  25. I drove a ‘38 P6 forward and back in the driveway many times. Through all the gears. It works well! Finally I said “wrap it up.” I really look forward to driving this one regularly. I’ll be a tough decision. My ‘38 or my ‘53? Darn I love these cars. Every single one of ‘em here. Keep the posts coming!
    1 point
  26. Cleaned her up and drove her to work for hobby day. Timelapse YouTube Video of Drive in to Work
    1 point
  27. Tamisha and I took off work Friday and cruised on up to Fort Wayne to meet up with the Hoosier Plymouth Club for lunch, then on up to the Auburn Cord Duesenburg Museum. Met some new friends, Tamisha fell in love with the Duesys, and had a great time overall. Just short of 300 miles round trip, roughly 14.5mpg. It was a great way to spend a Friday!
    1 point
  28. I drive my '39 business coupe everywhere. In 3 years I have already put 22k miles on it, mostly cruisin highways at 63 - 65 with my stock 3.9 rear end, 3 speed (no OD) and slightly hopped up 218. Just drove it 170 miles each way over mountain passes last weekend to go to a parade in Wenatchee WA. Also drive it 60 miles round trip on freeway to work all the time too. Would drive it every day if gas wasn't $3.49 a gallon here.. Here is a video of her crossing the Narrows Bridge in Tacoma, WA close to where I live:
    1 point
  29. Fixed running boards, fixed overheat, and been driving daily, built a back bumper, hauled some rough cut mahogany home this week to make a bed for ol blue. Also took my first night run in the rain the other night. Lights worked and so did the wipers....
    1 point
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