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Dad, Worlds first Bug Induction System is back online. Brought to you by Dodge, because they care. Not even an Indian Motorcycle can so effectively channel protein supplements directly into your mouth as you motor down the road. Seal is good, window opens full and the crank mechanism works like a champ.

I don't want unrelated suggestions just facts related to an A833 transmission swap to a flat head six. I have an A833 but it is the wrong version, in that it does not have the central shifter mount position. I'm left with a few options and none of them are great. The best option is to get the correct transmission, but I'm already heavily invested in this tranny. The second best option and here's where I need advice. Can I fab up a bracket that moves me a few inches ahead? I see several examples of people raising the shifter position in their swaps of the central shifter. So my bracket could do both things move it forward and up. I know I'm going to have to alter the shift rods, but that looks a whole lot easier than the alternatives. Any thoughts? Just for clarity the first image shows my tranny mounted in the truck and cross member out, the string runs where my cross member mounts. The second image shows my tranny out and back on the floor it is the short version 23 3/16" long. The third picture shows some of the tail shaft housing options, clearly mine appears to be the first one.

If I was doing a V-8 conversion I'd use a small block Chevy because I like them and over the years have accumulated several. Are they the absolute best engine in the whole wide world? Possibly not but nothing else is, either. Happy Labor Day!!?

I used a good enamel after repairing some cracks, then put a good cover on it (protects and also fattens the grip). Topped it off with a high quality spinner knob and have been very pleased.

It's convienent to use the bolts intended for the oil filter bracket. I made my mount from a electrical junction box cover, not nearly a fancy as Sam's

no....

I also have a Ross Roy filmstrip record set. It is for a 1942 Plymouth, which may be of interest to our P 14 and P15 members. I worked with the someone from the Imperial club in the SF Bay area a few years ago, and although there were able to transfer the 35mm filmstrips and add the sound from the record, apparently their stylus was not the correct one, because the sound is very tinny. I will post them to my Youtube channel, if there is interest, but I'd like to get a quality soundtrack synced up with the four strips. Because it is an oversized 16 rpm record, you need a larger special turntable to play them. My set came with a 9 page script dated 9-24-41, directed toward the dealer with "Special Instructions For Using the Plymouth Product Film". and includes four strips: 1) Engineered to Stay new, 2) Safety Preferred, 3) performance With Economy, and 4) Designed for Complete Comfort.

I just reviewed your post. What you fabricated for your shifter, etc,.was very helpful. Great workmanship.

Frank, H-E-(double hockey sticks). We had a class in our high school that was tougher than that - UNDERWATER Basket Weaving 201 !!!!

I don't have a '49 but I do have a '51 Canadian Dodge business coupe. As mentioned, your body style is not that common and will be an eye-turner when done. Unfortunately, looks like the back window is missing or broken. All other glass in the car is flat and can be cut by just about any decent glass shop especially if you have the old cracked or scratched one. The back window is the only piece of curved glass in the entire car and will need to be sourced somewhere, somehow. I am not sure if the two door fastback model window that you have is unique to that body style or if other cars shared the same window. Good luck with the search and keep posting pictures as progress is made.

I used a good enamel rattle can and it's held up 7+ years.

This steering wheel cover is great on mine: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00INTMG4I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Do the clip, not the frame swap. Very few frame swaps don't look like a vehicle sitting on the wrong frame. One exception here is Radarsonwheels' thread, he did a magnificent job with his frame swap but it took more work than a clip. Measure carefully for the clip because a lot of those end up looking like crap too. Best advice on clipping I can give you is: 1. The ball joints are not necessarily at the wheel center line 2. Measure the angle of the upper control arm front to back and duplicate it 3. do ALL fitting with the vehicle blocked at ride height Adam

I hate to see a man throw in the towel but I also know that time, space and money are often very limited resources. Selling a car apart is often a bit more involved in locating that one buyer needed. If you are not open to a quick drop in of the V8, then I would suggest a bolt on of the clip so the car has the "attractive value" of being whole and complete and often that is needed as many cannot visualize a car apart as one compete unit in their eye when kicking tires. Offering the intended v8 drive train as part of the package deal often is a plus. If you do not install the doghouse back on the car...I am afraid many lookers will walk away. Seems they do not mind taking it apart themselves...but to see if off the frame...turn off....many walk on just that.

There is a list out there in the resource listings somewhere specifying original colors for such things as the engine and other items. I think mine is fairly close to original with everything being black and silver. I used POR 15 high heat aluminum from a can, applied with a couple small brushes (1 and 2 inch). That has held up better for me than any previously used rattle cans. Other opinions will vary. (orange was not used on a 54 Plym engine....they looked just like a P15 motor.)

I can highly recommend BatteryCablesUSA when you are ready for new cables----Very reasonable prices, quick service and high quality! Made a noticeable difference in how the car starts, especially hot.

I started working on the car in 95, and it has my 68-69 High School parking permit on the windshield. Still not done, still things to do.