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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/03/2019 in all areas

  1. This came up and I HAD to buy it. I am partial to Woodie Wagons so I was a goner from the get-go
    1 point
  2. ah, they not that tight, I put a 440 into a even more narrow and pointed hood of a 1941 military 1/2 ton....if you got the room time skills tools etc...pick your poison and let the big dog loose
    1 point
  3. ah you can get sheets all day long at a thrift store, yard sale or clothes line out back of someone's house....have mums stitch a couple together, wha-la instant cover, low cost, easy to wash....and often you can get pretty little flowers if you like.....well, at least go with stripes.....
    1 point
  4. To the best of my knowledge, the '33 Dodge shares these parts with the '33 Plymouth though you should check the original part numbers to verify that. There are two seals on each side: A thick felt washer type inner seal that is supposed to keep the oil from the diff and the grease on the bearings separate. To the best of my knowledge this is no longer available. There is an outer grease seal assembly that is only available in old stock (if you can find it). However you can have a modern seal installed in the old carrier, see https://www.ply33.com/Repair/axle_seal/ The pinion seal is still available from places like NAPA: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NOS17675 You might need to install a speedi-sleeve on the pinion flange shaft but you won't know that until you pull things apart and see what the condition is. You can replace the outer axle seals and the drive pinion seal without fully disassembling the rear end. To replace the inner axle seals you will need to pull the axles. The only way I figured out how to measure and check the differential involved pulling it out of the axle housing but maybe others have figured out how to do that. For what it is worth, the wear pattern on my differential looked good and the backlash was still within factory tolerances so I left it alone. I did replace the axle bearings at that time as long as the axle shafts were out.
    1 point
  5. I think I see the design problem...….wet intake early.....water jacketed crossover heads later..... couple discussion on the internet for solutions..some involved, some a bit expensive...I never followed the early hemi, they gorgeous engines when dressed, but hp per $ formula is little skewed....
    1 point
  6. Running detergent oil in an engine that has not been running for it's previous life can be a problem in that when doing its job, breaks up the sludge and deposits and transports them to the filter. With the full flow system,all of that is being passed through the filter, which is good. Until the filter gets clogged, then all of it gets circulated back through the engine, which is not good. So the consideration to change to detergent oil, might make an investment in a bunch of filter elements, worth while which would be changed frequently to get the stuff out of the engine. Dropping the oil pan will help get a lot out, but deposits in other areas of the oil circulation circuit,, can still hold a lot of deposits. Not saying you shouldn't do it but to be forwarned of the situation before you do it. If these are limited use vehicles, you can appreciate the length of time it might take to get the old nasty out of the engines.
    1 point
  7. Loose is better than tight. Loose means they are all coming against their seats and benfiiting from cooling. To tight they can remain open andproone to burning.
    1 point
  8. The wife and I was running late to the cruise in due to weather so we put the 48 on the interstate with the 3.55 gears. Something we wouldn't attempted with 4.11 gears. We run 62 to 65 mph, not to bad, stayed in the right lane and actually passed one car! Ran into light rain. One thing I didn't document yet, the windshield, vent windows and some of the window weatherstrip was bad when I got the car so I had the windshield and vent windows replaced with new glasses, the weatherstrip for the windshield, vent windows and weatherstrip on the rear glass replaced with steele products rubber. There's still a little water getting in from the window laces, guess that's next. The 3.55 gears are proving to be a good move. It's getting hot down here in Mobile! Looks like quite a challenge to put ac on a 6 volt positive ground car! Gotta hurry with the 58 plymouth for this weather! Once the sun went down it was nice.
    1 point
  9. With the passenger tire and the inner lower fender panel removed, this is my view.
    1 point
  10. My newly painted dashboard. Same colors as the side panels.
    1 point
  11. 1 point
  12. quit giving 3rd world operating rooms a good name!
    1 point
  13. Andydodge is correct in his statement about Woodies being built initially for commercial use. Then the Model A wagons came about and that changed everything. They became increasingly more expensive to build because of the use of wood and the amount of manual labor that was involved in the fit/finish/assembly of the body to the chassis. Essentially, a woodie was a hand-built car and what really became the main problem to buyers/owners was the semi-annual upkeep of the wood. Most owners did not keep up with sanding/varnishing because it was a tedious and annoying aspect of Woodie ownership. So, when Plymouth introduced the 1949 All-steel Suburban wagon that was the final nail in the coffin of Woodies. Also, if any of the wood was damaged (accident, rot, etc) it was much more labor intensive to repair the wood (and more expensive) than if it were sheetmetal. Also, Woodies were usually the most expensive car at the dealership(s) when new.
    1 point
  14. Exactly what I plan to do. Besides, I don't have the extra money to restore another car right now. Not only that, I am a 100% purist when it comes to old cars. If I see a car that has all of its original interior, body, etc and then there is a modern engine in it I lose interest in it in seconds. That's just me and some of the work that is done to some cars is top notch but I cannot do that. I do not believe in changing/altering anything, especially on an all original car. As far as the brakes, 6 volt system, etc... the car will do just fine as it was designed and manufactured as new. It's not as if the car will be used on a daily basis which I wish it could be. My very 1st car, when I was 17 years old (ancient history), was a 1949 Plymouth 2-door that I DID drive every day. It had the original engine, brakes, etc and served me well as it was.
    1 point
  15. I always prick punch the parts so never a question.....it's saved my ass many times on different assembly of parts and definately speeds things up too.
    1 point
  16. I thought the old Mopars back thru 1946 had a sector with four machined wide slots..... four possibilities to install the pitman arm?
    1 point
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