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Here's my 49 b1f in progress start and now.

Did the deal on this one today. 1938 P6. Great known history. Solid car. Original interior. D24 engine installed but comes with original P6 engine needing rebuild. Lots of spare parts! Good runner. Test drove it. Looking forward to getting into this car. No plans other than make it reliable, road worthy and safe. Picked up in Victoria BC Canada. I will trailer it home next Saturday.

I got the Dodges ready for the Minnesota summer season. The B3B started right up and was ready to go. The brakes were a bit sticky after setting all winter but after warming them up they are OK. The 1969 Dodge Dart Swinger is all original, except for the rims, and also started right up. It has a 318 engine. This was my aunt's car who lived in CA and therefor it has no rust.

So I bought a 354 Hemi for my 1956 Fargo. Nothing has been done to this engine. It ran about 30 years ago and needs to be sleeved. Bore is sitting at .060 right now. It is really dirty. But not seized. Been in garage for that long. Not sure what I will do with it. Frickin I know that.

High vacuum at idle restricts the flow. Lower vacuum (lower varies by valve application) opens the passage. So, on the road, under load, is when the PCV circuit is most effective. Even with single digit vacuum levels, a lot of air will flow, again dependent on the valve you choose.

The vacuum spec is listed in most PCV makers catalogs, some are noted in the packaging. When I get to that point, I'll check my vacuum at cruise and select appropriately

Adam, That is why I used the wagner PCV it is a two stage PCV with springs that can be changed to "tune" it to most engines at both idle and a highway speeds... James

Nope, normal. Used to see that on almost every engine torn down in the 60s/70s.

73? Still lots of lead in gas back then, just phasing out.. Probably the source of the whitish deposits.

I have noticed some old guy driving my car lately also! What's up with that???

Disconnect your battery cable. If it doesn't spark when you reattach it, , you do not have a ground problem. I'm not much more knowledgeable about electrical than you, but it seems to me if you have a ground problem, a fuse should blow or wires should be melting. JMHO

that car is so straight through the sides what a job the body and paint bloke did

I drove a ‘38 P6 forward and back in the driveway many times. Through all the gears. It works well! Finally I said “wrap it up.” I really look forward to driving this one regularly. I’ll be a tough decision. My ‘38 or my ‘53? Darn I love these cars. Every single one of ‘em here. Keep the posts coming!

Found this 1950 Dodge May 19th 2019.....sitting behind a barn in my local area since 1979....I'm going to see if I can get it running.

I didn’t sleep well in the hotel room last nite. Too wound up about the car I think. It seems these moments of “child-like excitement at Christmas”, happen too rarely in life as we age. I am there today. Some new to me is interesting stuff to learn about 1938 technology. The starter has a rod that comes thru the firewall. It seems that you turn on the key power, you push the rod, manually engaging the starter somehow. Is that right? When the owner started the car, I was taking in a lot of info at the time. The D24 engine in the car now is slightly longer than the stock block. So the rad was moved forward slightly to accomodate it. I was told that this was completed back in 1966. The original engine has been held with the car all that time. The head was found to br cracked, I was told. That head is long gone. Whenever I get to rebuilding the original engine I’ll need a head. I believe it to be a 201ci engine. I’ll keep an eye out for one. Looking in the cylinders of this original ,engine I was mildly amused at the bore. Quite a bit smaller than my 265. All the original parts are still there in boxes from the engine swap and rad move. Lots more stuff too, fortunately. The car had been sitting unstarted for several months. A little fuel in the carb and it fired up immediately and purred smoothly as these flatheads are known for. An electric fuel pump has been installed. I was happy to see that all the gauges worked too. The coolant temp gauge is labeled “heat” I think. Factory lettering. Lol. Good amps, and engine oil pressure reading. An interesting little bolt-in am radio was attached under the dash on the driver’s side. I have never seen one of these before. Looking at it I’d guess it may be a 1950’s aftermarket purchase? It sort of resembles the shape of a modern electric brake controller, mounted similarly. Appears to be a self contained unit. Thinking about it now, it seemed a little small to house tubes. Maybe it does. I can’t check it right now. I’ll post pics when I get the car home and start working on it. It’ll be another week likely before I get it home.

It should have the 4 speed "PrestoMatic" hydraulically operated transmission. Reverse is back and up like the standard 3 speed. Shifter pushed up is Low range- provides 1st and 2nd gears Shifter pulled down is High range...provides 3rd and 4th gears