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It’s not the original arrangement due to the repairs to the tank and the installation of rubber hose from the tank to the rigid gas line. I believe the original setup was a bubble flair with a rigid line coming from the tank all the way up to the fuel pump.

Hi Guys, New to the forum . Just wanted to share one of my projects. Just completed the intake castings for my triple carb for my Windsor C25 coupe. Just interested to know what members recommend in terms of Carbies to use. Just wanted some feedback , before i start machining them. I will also be casting a duel carb setup for both the 25 and 23 inch block ( I own a few early dodge brother projects). Also any experience with triple setups and what to watch out for would be appreciated. I designed them so there are no flat areas for fuel to gather and have a direct path into the cylinders. Tkxs

Yes, you are correct, the new tanks use the 1/2 20 thread. I found a edalmann 3/8 barb with a 5/16 1/2 20 thread from good old Napa.? if it works I will post the information for the good of the order? Thanks for the response!

It's the speed sensor, the "hose" is the wire shield.

there is a place in Cali, near 48Dodger (Tim) that has a ton of humpys....maybe ping 48Dodger and see if he can hook you up with Dave the guy in charge of the humpys.

Do you have pictures? There a lot of different techniques for “moving” metal - some better than others for different situations. I am certainly not an expert but there are guys on here who are. If you take your time and work the crease out slowly, my experience has been that the metal tends to want to return to its original shape. I have seen incredible things done with just a heat gun and wet rag - you just need to know what to heat and what to cool.

wait...100psi?

Or use a large rattail file to bore the engine out............lol..........oh well.............andyd

the 892252is 5/16 x 2 and 7/32 the 488550 is 9/32 x 2 and 5/8

Los...........yep 100% Oz factory, the blue car is a 40 Plymouth, the other was my Oz 40 Dodge, both were made by TJ Richards by modifying an Oz 4dr sedan, they used 4dr front doors and a centre pillar, cut thru the original roof in the door opening, folded the cut 90degrees and rolled up the rest rearward and used 1/4" thick steel strapping to brace around the trunk lid etc, that small door opened into the front of the trunk and was the only way to get items that had moved to the front of the trunk, these had an unsplit bench seat that could move forward or back with a plywood panel and parcel shelf.the small side door was made of folded steel but the door opening in the body had a timber frame NAILED around the opening...........these Oz 1940 Coupes are quite rare, I've seen 4 since 1969 and pics of another 3, doubtful if more than 100 of both makes in total were made..........and that "continental" spare tyre mount at the rear is the factroy setup........andyd

This is Dodge, but only full parts book I have on hand. Depending on hinge location and car body there are three different sizes used on the D24 per my book....they are 1/4, 9/32 and 5/16 dia . Rear hinge lower was 9/32 on the 4 door sedan/7 pass/limo with the upper hinge pin 5/16 and the town sedan got 5/16 pins on the rear upper and lower, all front doors on the D24 fronts were 1/4 upper and lower....

Okay, it was on the rack today, and the mechanic and I were underneath and he spun the drive shaft and the wheels rotated freely, and the shaft wasn't touching the parking brake pads, so the smell I smelled which I thought was a brake hanging up, was only the dripping WD40 onto the exhaust. In fact, while I was driving over to the shop this morning, there wasn't any smell, and I was calm enough, since I wasn't worried about all the things that "could" be wrong, to notice there wasn't drag at all on the vehicle while moving forward, that would have been there if a brake was actually hanging up. So, all in all, a good day at the shop. I've got a lead on a used cable, and I'll look for a parking brake kit to replace what I've got, even though the current one is fine, it looks like it could use a replacement kit at some point in the distant future. Might as well get it now, when I don't have a crises and have the luxury of available time. Thanks for all the suggestions guys. ?

Oh yeah, it is definitely cool in my book. Don't hold back!

Sharing something that caught my eye on this subject.

Taking the tree to my local volunteer FD for our Christmas party

Thank you Dodgeb4ya.

DodgeB4ya......have never seen that bottom pic nor the middle photo and are XLNT ways to show the use of the nuts etc.........I don't need it at present but its good to see ..........andyd

Here ya go...265 same as a 218/230/251................

This might or might not help.

Just install commercial heavy duty cables to make sure you have covered your current draws! You can look at charts all day long and just go to sleep..................

Did you ever try to explain this to the engineers that designed all the cars made before 12 volt systems became universal?

finished!

I may put those in Roxanne, only add some distressed paint effects

Here are mine.

MoThe idea that you need a much larger gauge battery cable for a 6v in comparison to a12v is incorrect. The torque required to turn a given engine is the same regardless of battery voltage. the torque is directly proportional to the amps from the battery. If someone has a DC amp clamp meter and 6 and 12 volt batteries, they can verify. if the engine takes some time to start, yes larger cables are of benefit.