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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/02/2018 in all areas

  1. The 'window' in the lifter bore is fairly large so that it provided max oil supply to the lifter and as you question, a regrind will drop the lifter in the bore by 'x' amount. The issue is only in the amount of material that was removed from the lobe. It would have to be substantial to affect the oiling. The bigger issue occurs when a different lifter is swapped. Check the photo. It is worth noting that the HT2011 has been used in a multitude of rebuilds w/o negative affects..... As to the small vertical oil hole in your photo, it a hold-over from the old days of splash lubrication. The Chrysler engines of the same year did not have them.
    3 points
  2. I knew that the 3.54 car diff which I dropped down to the diff guys was a good one... but I didn't know that it had been recently rebuilt and had all new bearings! The guys changed the 3.54 car diff over to suit my 10 spline truck axles and I hope to be driving the truck again tomorrow. They are also going to piece my 4.1 back together from spare parts from my shed as I had that 4.1 diff totally rebuilt about 3500 miles ago.... and I have just a few spare diffs at the shed. I even found a few truck diffs with the 15 spline count - wished I found them earlier as that would have made things even easier. I actually took the opportunity to have a little clean up at my parts shed and will do a run to the scrap metal yard tomorrow. I still have a few diffs in trucks in the other shed, so I figure that stripping out the centres and scrapping the rusty carriers would save me some room in the small shed. My home-made hub and axle pullers worked hard! I have the hub puller tensioned on one of the diff hubs that wouldn't budge and hope to find it free in the morning. The next project at my parts shed is to have a couple of transmissions rebuilt and get rid of some that had been in the weather for too long!
    2 points
  3. Reminded me of some horses I've known?
    1 point
  4. They should be easy to buy in any tractor - parts store, I think that any tractor uses them. If no, It's required by law (at least here, but it should be simillar in US) for any motor boat to have it - so marine shop it's the next place to stop by. I have one in Packard 120, also battery under the seat. I mounted it on the seat frame; but REALLY IMPORTANT is the proper wiring. By "proper" I mean really, really thick - thickest You can find. If it would be too thin, the car wouldn't start when the engine is hot - the starter would engage and start cranking the engine, but there won't be any spark. I had that problem in my Packard, even thought about converting it to 12V, but welder - wire was the solution.
    1 point
  5. Pouting like a little kid... didn’t want to work... would rather play. ?
    1 point
  6. The ever popular trip to the dump with a load of slash. Roxanne tried to stall at every intersection on the way, but later when heading to a local car show she runs near perfect. How do you explain that?!
    1 point
  7. Again, for clarification, the small jumper wire is connected to the movable side of the points? If you have 6v there with the points closed, and 0 volts when touching the solid side of the points, that means that the points aren’t making a connection. You will need to clean the points contact surfaces so that they can complete the circuit to ground.
    1 point
  8. Dodgeb4ya, Here's a shot of the Woodie.
    1 point
  9. And then this happened. All points bulletin out for this top hinge pivot. Guessing the threaded post was cracked as when I reinstalled the nut it took no effort with a small wrench to spin it off. Posted on the Facebook POC page, and had one kind gent respond that he could make me one, but if someone has a stash, I’m in the market for buying one as I need to get this back in place. By the way I found a form of butyl silicone tape at Home Depot. Used to make quick repairs to water pipes it seals in the wet. Somewhat of a modern friction tape, I used the small roll to put on 4 layers. It conformed to the edge of the glass easily and the tape was easy to work with. A deadblow hammer made reseating the glass fairly quick.
    1 point
  10. Notch to the front on inline engines. But .......Most times it's still best to contact the manufacturer if not sure about a very important question!.
    1 point
  11. This might or might not help.
    1 point
  12. I got a little work done today. In got the pistons pressed into the cylinders. Make sure you wear gloves. That ring compressor is sharp! I put some pieces of rubber tubing over the bearing cap bolts so I didn’t scratch up the journals.
    1 point
  13. why are some member being very critical of the gentleman that is having the issue? I give him credit for asking the questions and also great credit for trying to learn about his car and the electrical system. Yes the forum has a great amount of season veteran antique car owners that have a great deal of knowledged. But least remember that YOU All did not know it all when you were first starting out in this hobby. We allhave to learn at some point in time. Yes the owner could have taken it to a mechanic and the mechanic would have found the issue and fixed the car, But would the mechanic have explained what he did and transfered his knowledge to this owner, I think probably NOT. So now the owner has some kinowledge and can keephis car running incase it has a breakdown on the road. I must say that there are members on this forum that also ask alot of questions also, so why is not that you do not put down these members and also discourage a new member from restoring or keeping a good old MoPar running but maybe we should chase him away to the Chevy and Ford guys. I was a teacher and the parting of knowledge is what all of us need to do to help each other. May be someone with another antique car will be stuck on the raod and this owner just might stop by the car that is stuck onthe raod be it any other make of car and gets the guy back onthe road. This is what the hobby is all about helping and not putting people down for their questions. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
    1 point
  14. On the way home from work we stopped by the chainsaw carver's place. Saw this and couldn't resist a closer look.
    1 point
  15. Modern full-floating axles are designed so that the differential and hub bearings are lubricated with gear oil. The 1-ton axle has a chamber bounded by hub oil seals to keep the grease and gear oil separate. This axle design means excess oil in the differential is separated from ambient conditions by that paper gasket at the axle shaft flange as well as those oil seals. Seal failure could mean gear oil could leak out, as well as not circulate for any contaminates to settle anywhere but within the hub bearings, leading to premature failure. Modern axles are designed with a relief to allow for this circulation to prolong bearing life...at least that's the word on the street
    1 point
  16. Went for about a 75 mile cruise this morning. A little town north of here. Barriere BC. Got up early and headed out. Great run. Kept the tank over ¼ full and no issues. 2 lane hiway. I kept my speed at about 50-55 mph. Was nice with some twisty roads and nice scenery. Sneaking up to the 1,000 mile mark for 2018 cruising. That's the North Thompson River seen in the photo. If any of you have been to the Canadian Rockies, the river begins not far from the west side of it's foothills. Not too far from Mount Robson, our tallest here in the Canadian Rockies.
    1 point
  17. Hmmmmm . . . . . Decaf—isn’t that unleaded???
    1 point
  18. The manual will not tell you how to deal with a stuck/frozen assenbly and the ensuing issue of the flywheel bolts. You will absoultly have to be able to rotate the crank in order to access the nuts on the backside of the crank flange or, remome the crank/flywheel as a unit...except that that does not always clear the con-rods. Fun Eh????????
    1 point
  19. Just don't try and run it on decaf!
    1 point
  20. I usually check here first also CC.... I am not a mechanic and I have found a few who will "dumb it down" for me and it builds my confidence. ? the manual doesn't always cover my scenario. good luck and report back!
    1 point
  21. My favorite is a 4000 lb hydraulic table that doubles as a motorcycle lift. It was an industrial lift table of some kind from my former employer. I added a hinged 6" wide piece channel that can be removed if I wanted. I love how I can adjust the height from something I can work with using an old chair or hit the foot pedal and raise it if I want to stand and work.
    1 point
  22. i have a couple, my "general" work bench is at 45", my welding bench is at 42"..... i recently discovered and my "portable" bench being at 36" was a good height to work over a transmission
    1 point
  23. Well, today we finished the brake job. Kris had the shoes relined locally, as well as cutting the drums. We get it all back together this morning, on hot and humid day. It was good to see the truck out of the garage again. Kris did quite a lot of work to it over the winter/spring. I helped him with some of the more technical things, but he did most of the work. Atta Boy, Kris. You done good... Our test run this morning...
    1 point
  24. With some parts in the misc bin I made this to dial in the new shoes. The bearing is from a previous timing belt replacement. Sometimes being a pack rat does pay off.
    1 point
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