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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/25/2018 in all areas

  1. Drive mine also about 20 - 25 miles a week
    3 points
  2. I tow this with my 1948 17,000 mile New Yorker with standard brakes and tyres.Its not been difficult.
    3 points
  3. Back in the day just about every trailer was pulled by a car. We now think that you have to have a diesel pickup to do the job. Americans have gone soft.
    3 points
  4. I told my wife if I passed she should sell all my stuff as I don't want some other ass hole using my things should she remarry. She said to me what makes you think I would marry another ass hole.
    3 points
  5. From what I've read on here re-sleeving is the way to go.
    2 points
  6. I know of a nice T& C sedan locally 4 sale if anyone is interested. New chrome, fresh interior beautiful wood and rebuilt engine.
    2 points
  7. I never re-use copper brake line washers. If you want to anneal them, perhaps they could be re-used, but trying to get a used washer to seal again is not worth the risk. Brakes are too important to save a few dollars on a used washer.
    2 points
  8. I believe the smaller one to the right is the end of the camshaft bore.
    2 points
  9. As the opportunity I am restating a canned ham, or tear drop. I am a diesel mechanic so towing is a knack for me with lots of experiance. I know the engines are bullet proof I needed to check for other week nessus of the drive train. I like the wooden tear drop campers and plan on building my own @ around 1000-1500lbs
    2 points
  10. Howdy! I just bought a 1947 WD-21 one ton single wheel w/flatbed. I believe the flathead is the 218. The door tag says 80hp. I saw the ad in our local paper for $400. It was only 3 miles away. I knew I would buy it if I went & looked. After 3 days, I couldn't resist. Now it's mine. They bought it back in the 70's to use on the farm. It got parked about '95 and they just used it to grind corn in the bed. It is in fairly good condition other than a stuck engine. I took the head off & cyl 2 & 4 have some rust. Been soaking for few days. Should have it free today & hopefully running. I'm not familiar with pre '60 Dodges, so I had fun looking her over & comparing to my Chevys. Better location of brake master & tube shocks were a couple things. Chevy had the master under floor & had knee action til '50. Interested to see what type of brakes this has. Huck or Bendix? Looks like the windshield opens out? The plan is to get her running & drive it since I got the title. One cool thing...I knew this truck wanted to come home with me. The tires aired up & the brackets for my tow bar bolted up perfect to the bumper bolts. Easiest tow ever!
    1 point
  11. I just completed the compression test on a 218 engine I purchased sight unseen. The seller was replacing it with a V8 front clip and just wanted it out of his shop! Some sellers are honest. The compression numbers ALL EXCEED 125#'s. Amazing. It sure beats a $2500.00 plus overhaul. Seller did not follow through, so it is still for sale, $600, a very good buy!
    1 point
  12. Out for a Sunday drive when I spotted a trailer for sale in a farmer's field. I've been looking to buy one so I could drag my '50 B2B out to CA for the BBQ. Actually I was hoping somebody nearby would offer to loan me one but no offers so far. That not withstanding, farmer Larry came down the drive in his golf cart, had to be pushing 80. Not the golf cart, rather Larry For some odd reason I asked Larry if he had any old Dodges laying around. "Sure, follow me" was his reply. Just around the travel trailer and down from the bus was a few rotting goodies, one of which was a 50-is Plymouth Cranbrook. It was complete too. Even had the sun visor stashed in the back seat. I looked her over pretty good. Farmer Larry said he'd let me have her for 1500.00, today and today only. Well, the sun is still up and I 'm feeling like I should head back over there. Have you ever had that feeling? Larry said she belonged to the Walden postmaster who had bought it new and was a daily driver until he passed away Colorado is famous for bone dry conditions and Walden Colorado, at 8,099 feet is drier than most places out here. This Cranbrook has only minor surface rust. Trouble is I have no room to keep it and rotting interiors freak me out. Oh, no budget either. Roxanne is taking up all my spare nickels and dimes. OK, feast your eyes:
    1 point
  13. Thanks for the add. Here are two of my https://imgur.com/gallery/t7GAQ, the other is a project 68 Coronet RT. I think my 41 WC-3 is my favorite to drive but it’s currently down to a engine problem created by the builder (not me).
    1 point
  14. A belated Happy Birthday to you and congratulations on your new toy! Don’t listen to those other guys about the wheels - personally, I like them! Lol!
    1 point
  15. Coming back from the mountains yesterday and saw this on California 91 west bound from the Riverside area, so somebody in Southern California is driving their old Plymouth: I should be getting my old Plymouth out more. But I would rather not be driving it in stop and go traffic on the freeway.
    1 point
  16. Re-sleeving can be a sound investment for years...
    1 point
  17. I would return for a new one, you paid for a supposedly working wheel cylinder, you shouldn’t have to invest more to make it work. I wouldn’t try any other repairs
    1 point
  18. trust me, a wheel cylinder leaking is always considered....BAD
    1 point
  19. I like the color, styling and size. What a beauty. One I’d surely drive on a regular basis too. What size engine did these have?
    1 point
  20. Don't mess around with JB Weld on an hydraulic brake fitting. Either replace that casting, or have it machined flat all around the copper washer sealing surface. And then use a NEW copper washer.
    1 point
  21. What is KPA? . YES on 125! My gauge holds the reading until it's released. I motor my test engines a bit to avoid reading a needle jump. NO, no water leak! The manifold bolts are dry as a pop corn fart, besides there isn't any coolant in the engine! Too much work to change engines, besides truck engine is sound. No sludge in the pan nor at the valves, nice. May still be sludge in the block, buyer can check on that.
    1 point
  22. Yup along with knowing is the big weight differences. Ive pulled big heavy trailers I know what its like. Pulling a small utility trailer is easy comparatively speaking and so is the lower level of skill as compared to big, heavy and long loads. With respect to the OPs question and intent. He needs to be aware of the limitations of his intended choice in Campers. Where he intends to travel with it, the rules regulations that will.need to be addressed in order to facilitate this idea. Driving these old cars and trucks can be a challenge alone on certain roadways, conditions and terrain, without adding a trailer. This is not 1950, heck its nothing like 1980 on these highways in so many locales. Its not just a simple matter of getting a hitch and trailer and off you cruise into DesiLucyland...
    1 point
  23. I found this under the carpet, under the front bench seat of my 53 Windsor recently. The left side upper edge is dated 1969. Unfortunately, a Google search turned up this man's obituary.
    1 point
  24. I saw that same car at the local woodies on the warf in Santa Cruz
    1 point
  25. If I recall correctly this Desoto pulled this trailer from California to Indiana and beyond. Spotted this at the 2014 Desoto Convention in Fort Wayne.
    1 point
  26. Ha! I wish that was mine (googled it) How about this set-up
    1 point
  27. Sounds like an adventure
    1 point
  28. A fine day for a cruise to go pick up some building supplies. I may or may not have taken a 40 mile long-cut. I always stop for a gallon or two on the way back home. It helps prolong the trips out in the car.
    1 point
  29. Rear engine oil galley 1/8" pipe fitting for the oil gauge.......
    1 point
  30. I'd love to be driving mine - unfortunately the mechanic is a useless fool and this was the last time I saw her 3 days ago with no updates since
    1 point
  31. We will see... I am trying to get her finished. As I mentioned in the post on my build thread, "Just because it came with an optional V8, does not mean that a V8 will bolt in easily". I am running into that on all the little details! I still have no idea what I will do about exhaust. Its looking like I wont have enough room on the driver side to get over the axle and between all the linkages and it will be sketchy to get two down the passenger side. But I will post up on the Clements thread if I can get it figured out by then.
    1 point
  32. man, I don't know what they weigh, but I have "man handled" a few and I would have guessed closer to the 400lb mark. but NOW when I tell the story it was closer to 600lbs you know...... " he said...... she said...... it was!"
    1 point
  33. One has to understand the total concept of the tear drop. It is a mattress on wheels, with an outside kitchen for outside camping. Put up a 10' X 10' popup shade behind it and life is good. Papa nd Nana have a nice bed, the grandkids can sleep in tents. I'm going to start looking for one. Tim, clean out a space in the shop where Zachary and I can lay out out our sleeping bags.
    1 point
  34. Thanks for the great advice 59bisquik. Will do exactly that. Again! It all hinges on the exam of it by the machine shop. I am cautiously optimistic that the head will check out ok. Or you going to the BBQ?
    1 point
  35. And while I was at it, I did my best on a couple more chrome parts. The horn ring and the speaker cover. They cleaned up nicely
    1 point
  36. Got the ash tray mostly finished powdered what I could and shined up the chrome with some steel wool. I never knew how great that stuff was just need the female part of the lighter now. I have the knob and element, then I can get that installed.
    1 point
  37. 1 point
  38. Miss Indiana paid me a visit in Chemo this morning.
    1 point
  39. Just need the defrost cable now. Thanks Keven
    1 point
  40. Seems all I know how to do is paint and powder coat haha. All these parts will have to get done at some point or another and these are the cheapest things to do for me right now. I like to at least be making a little progress on it.
    1 point
  41. 1 point
  42. Also had a chance to get some work done on my mopar master heater restoration
    1 point
  43. Paul, Sleeveing is a much more expensive route to take. I replaced everything with new from Roberts Master Cylinder $129 Front Cylinder $45 x 2, RU, RL, LU, LL $26.50 x 4. So the all new system was somewhere like $326 (not counting new lines) or shoes. Not nothing, but honestly THIS is the MOST IMPORTANT area not to skimp on. Getting the system to work by fixing one just leads to next week fixing another and so on forever soaking, contaminating and replacing shoes every few weeks is not good use of your time. Wait if you have to but do this job correctly from the start. My $0.02 worth, Hank
    1 point
  44. There has been mention of using a grease gun, hammer and drift, etc. And that when you get the pistons out you may need to sleeve or replace anyway. All true. Not sure what vintage you are working with, but if it is a stepped bore cylinder, you may not be able to use a drift and hammer. When I finally got a set of the correct wheel cylinders for my car, a couple were frozen. I just packaged them up and set them to http://www.brakecylinder.com/ where Joe got the old pistons out, cleaned everything out and put in sleeves. I don't recall him charging extra for getting the old frozen pistons out. The cylinders came back looking like pieces of art. Almost a shame to hide them behind a brake drum as they looked so great.
    1 point
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