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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/12/2018 in all areas

  1. Hello all. My name is Steven Brown and I am new to the forum and I , along with my 17 year old son Noah, are the new owners of a 1949 Plymouth Delux 4 door sedan. Picked up the car for next to nothing and trailered it home. It was sitting at the edge of field with weeds growing up around it so I stopped in and next thing you know, I'm dragging the thing home. Once we got it home and got a better look at everything I started to realize I might have just purchased a heap. The good news is, with little effort we got it fired up and moving under it's own power. The old six runs smooth and strong and is still on 6 volt positive ground. Vacuum advance is no good so we have to ease into it but it'll pick up and go. The bad news is that the brakes are not intact and it has some serious rust issues. The floor pans are pretty well shot. Once we got the ragged carpet out we discovered that the carpet was all that kept us from driving like Fred Flinstone. The frame looks ok except the front cross member is done. Now I'm sure the floor pans and trunk area can be cut out (what's left of it) and replaced but the cross member has us questioning what we want to do since it needs to be replaced and it need brakes. I doubt we will go all out to restore it to showroom condition. It's just something my son and I plan to have fun with and I can teach him a thing or two (and learn myself too). It will probably end up being a mild rat rod. We want to leave the flathead 6 in there and even leave it 6 volt positive ground. I love the sound of that starter as it groans to bring the engine to life. My question for the folks here is would we be better off to hunt down a replacement cross member and stick with 4 wheel drum brakes or should we go with another front clip and change over to disc brakes. I've never done this so I'll be relying on the help of those who know to guide us through it and help us out. I do have a mid 90's S10 that doesn't run so that frame and running gear is available to us. Is there a better option than the S10? Is just using the front clip the best option or the whole thing? I'm sure many guys have gone either way so I'd like to hear your experiences and advice.
    2 points
  2. this is an endoscopic view from the inside of the cooling tube channel....
    2 points
  3. tested the flag today, I think it will make from the motel in Lodi to the ranch
    2 points
  4. On the 3-4 ton trucks they were mandatory to help prevent crank and cam breakage. I agree you probably don't need it. I feel my 265 engine with the Harmonic damper is a smoother running sounding engine than my factory 2-1/2 tonner 251 with out one.
    2 points
  5. I've bought 6 of the 25" engines in the past few years. Two of which were 265"s and none of them had a dampener. five of them were from 1.5 or larger truck engines. The one Chrysler car engine that had been transplanted into a big truck didn't have one either. I guess it could have had one but was removed When transplanted into the truck. There was a thread several months ago on this topic. After reading it, I'm not planning on a dampener on the 265 that is going into my Chrysler roadster. Someone had mentioned that the damper may be more important on the engines with offset connecting rods if I remember correctly. I don't know if that theory is true or not. The one 265 that I bought came from a truck I remember seeing daily as kid. The gentleman that owned it hauled pallets of stone every day. The truck would be wound up pretty good when he approached a hill. It was this guys livelihood but he never babied it. That truck was 30 years old at the time. I also have a truck that hauled coal from 1947 to 1972. I have the weigh slips where it routinely hauled 10.000 lbs of coal. This truck had the 237 engine with no dampener but did have a governor. I think if I had a dampener and room was not a concern then I would use it. But in my case, I'm mating a 265 (bored .060,dual carbs dual exhaust,and cam) to a R10 OD and 3.90 gears. I think I should have plenty of torque to push a 2700 lbs roadster at rpms that I don't have to worry about a dampener. I would love to hear first hand from those who have driven vehicles with 265 or a 251 that compare any differences between engines with and without a dampener. Rob
    2 points
  6. that would be aiding and abetting a felony.....
    2 points
  7. I just do a little each day. My legs are improving. California mountains have many interesting free camp sites. These are small construction sites close to water sources, that were not large enough for full development, so they kept the site but undeveloped yet maintained by the park service. attachment is my build sketch.
    2 points
  8. Physically I'm 65. Mentally, 18-19 (my wife would agree). Been a carnut since grade school. Kept me out of trouble. Could've been worse.
    2 points
  9. Hey all, New to the group here but I just picked up this 1941 dodge Kingsway and am looking for some more information on it. It runs and drives and has the original engine in it. I'm new to mopar vehicles but couldn't pass up the opportunity to have it. I've gone through the threads regarding brake drum removal but am looking for additional information on wiring diagrams and component names for under the hood. Appreciate any and all help.
    1 point
  10. Not sure of anything so far 55. I get conflicting info from different sellers. Going by the first posts photos, my best guess so far, is the rear rotor from a 68 1800s, and the caliper from the 1988 Volvo 240.....
    1 point
  11. 64 bought my 40 Plymouth when I was 60, currently re-motoring it with a Built "53" 265. Hoping to at least Double the factory Horsepower of 84 with This Build.
    1 point
  12. 55, if your asking me, better double check on the model of Volvo. Not that I doubt my dad’s memory but he’s no spring chicken. Adam
    1 point
  13. You would be better served asking on the Hamb. This site is for those that appreciate the old Mopars, and enjoy saving them. Sbc’s are not much respected here.
    1 point
  14. Thanks. Very ingenious.
    1 point
  15. This might be an old thread - but just for the sake of it - I'm painting mine Chrysler Industrial Red. Seems fitting for an industrial 265 outfitting with OEM dual carbs and dual exhaust along with a "Spitfire" head to give it a factory hot rod feel. I think the truck is going to be Blue... so it should stand out.
    1 point
  16. I just went through the absolute pain of removing the rear brake drums and assemblies this weekend. The previous owner opted for welding one of the rims to the hub and drum. Thank God I'm a machinist and have access to a lathe to knock the excess weld off the original hub. Are there any rear axle parts from these (brakes, drums, hub) that are the same as other years and models? How long was a tapered/keyed axle used?
    1 point
  17. okay... images up! Got the head mounted and shaved 8mil off the top to achieve a nice, level surface for all the head bolts and water neck. Not a necessary step except that there was a fair bit of brass to level for the water neck mating surface and that had to be machined. Just did the whole thing.... Then flipped it over to surface the gasket mating surface. Took a total of 11.2 mil to get completely level.
    1 point
  18. I just woke up from a Rip Van Winkle nap, and I don't know how old this post is just saw it for the first time. But apparently this Don guy in the first picture stole my work bench and moved it to his shop ! At least according to all the messy tools laying on top, I swear that's how mine looks day in, day out. I clean it promise not to let it get bad, end of day right back where I started I tell people I keep it that way on purpose otherwise I cant find tool and concentrate on job at hand if not in that condition!.Just kidding you Don, besides my bench wouldn't support a fully dressed flat head. My 2 cents worth, all the colors look good, because none of mine are painted, just caked in grease LOL
    1 point
  19. That's pretty cool! ........."The Fantastic Voyage into the Flathead" Thanks for posting!
    1 point
  20. hello! we took off the (fairly new )waterpump and radiator. All openings (incl. thermostat housing) were blocked bij a piece of sheet metal and silicone. Two freeze plugs were removed and the engine was flushed untill nothing came out anymore. My brother also made a special nozzle to be able to blow high pressure water in the engine in the corners via the freeze plug opening. Then, one of the freeze plugs was mounted. The other freeze plug opening was temporary closed with a wooden plug. On the bottom of the engine we put in a open/close valve. On the top, the heater valve was replaced bij another open/close valve. Both valves were connected to a garden hose. To circulate the acid we used a small pump driven by a drilling machine and a bucket. The acid was a commercially availble de-ruster on a phosphoric acid base (see picture below). I have done preliminary tests on a very rusty knife that had been laying in the Belgian weather for two years. It was soaked in the acid (20%)overnight and came out nicely. All the rust was gone and the metal was nice and black (phosphatised). We used a 20% solution on the engine and let is circulate for 15hrs. After the rinsing, we have been flushing with water for 2hrs. This evening I will post a picture from the inside of the engine. It looks so clean that you think that it came straight out of the factory....
    1 point
  21. Just another pic of a installed old tube....
    1 point
  22. Bluefox, how did you de-rust the inside of your engine with the acid, and what kind of acid. I am assuming that the engine was still in the car?
    1 point
  23. If you happen to find two, let me know. I live far enough from you that we wouldn't "wear the same dress to the party".
    1 point
  24. little hi-jack but to compliment my above, the light fixtures are now converted to single end LED tubes....when they say daylight...they mean daylight.....the brightness is almost unbelievable.....and...there are twelve bulbs yet to go in that section. Now that I have seen what they look like..I will order about 125 more tubes.
    1 point
  25. The title of the thread, "To goop or not to goop", caught my attention. I have seen "goop" oozing from mating surfaces and I think it shows poor workmanship. I have seen it used by itself in place of tappet cover gaskets on a flathead. Also seen it used by itself as a substitute for an oil pan gasket on an older flathead and the list goes on. Used properly and sparingly I suppose "goop" serves a purpose. I just don't like cleaning the stuff off .
    1 point
  26. Like I said, do a little each day. Now I can square, cut and weld the tubular frame together. First to complete the wood bed box. The tube frame should not take very long. I will sketch out the tubes required this evening. The corner tubes will be 4'6" tall to give head clearance of 6'2". If I think a lower roof line is better, I can fab a 6' X 36" popup in the front center of the roof. That can be done later. Essentials first.
    1 point
  27. Let us know, I hope that everything will be fine.
    1 point
  28. Great thread. Alas , I have thrown away uncracked heads and would have been pleased to give you one...... but freight is a real handicap to get parts around at reasonable final cost. And if you are on an island, like me, it gets even worse.
    1 point
  29. 1 point
  30. '40 Club, You definitely should have a vibration dampener on an automotive application! All of us, face the same clearance issues when we replace a 23" engine with a 25" one. A readily available solution is to use a Canadian passenger car dampener. It is a combination dampener and pulley, that shortens the front crankshaft area dimension by approximately 1" and also has a smaller diameter. Illustrated below is my (upside down) 265 with this set-up! Walt
    1 point
  31. What?! And you hope to finish that in a month? Where do you get you energy? Are twenty some years old? I may have to head out to Cali to see it.
    1 point
  32. I have a shop manual for it. Ill post the wiring diagram later...
    1 point
  33. You have a Canadian built car, twin to a Plymouth Road King. The engine is a 3 3/8 bore 218 which is 25 inches along the cylinder head. This is in comparison to the USA built engine which is 23 inches. It is a smaller car than the US model. You will find that the grille is smaller than the US model and the park and headlight are the same as Plymouth
    1 point
  34. ok fellas, this is how it looks. Let's see what happens.... enjoy your day!! Franky
    1 point
  35. This is what mine looked like when I opened it up. Stock engine don't know if the tube had been replaced or not.
    1 point
  36. thanks for replying Merle, altough, if I see the drawing in the manual... It looks like the original tube fits the opening much more precise than the aftermarket tubes. There does not seem much clearance to creat side flow... I think we will go for the flared pipe and hope the flow is sufficient to cool the whole block. grtz
    1 point
  37. If your vehicle is travelling at the speed of light... do your headlights still work?
    1 point
  38. I've pulled the oil pan and the Pistons. Every top ring is broken and #5 piston land is broken, which scored the cylinder wall pretty good. After a lot of measurements a .040 over piston should work.
    1 point
  39. Hi..l also find myself looking at P15 D24 almost daily and l am not a big internet guy..I first heard of this site only a few months ago from Charlie at Rusty Hope. My first car was a 1934 Plymouth which l inherited from my Grandma in 1964..She drove it, my mother learned to drive in it, as well as my wife.My dad and me fixed it up (restored is not the correct word) and l drove the car through high school and college..We still have it. We are planning a cross country trip this spring and hope to visit Charlie in Davenport Fla.. l am a member of various forums and have found this one to be not only the most helpful but the most interesting as well...Tom PS my birthday is 12-10--48
    1 point
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