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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/18/2017 in all areas

  1. Sounds to me like a big can of worms to make the 218 work. Maybe spending the money on the 230 might be the better way to go. Plus the 230 has 6 more horses than the 97hp 218.
    4 points
  2. Good luck to you! If it were me,my first move would be to drop it off at an upholstery shop and let the pros do it. I don't even have to try it to know it would be a mistake for me to even get started on putting in a headliner. I have trouble putting on bumperstickers without getting them wrinkled. It's important in life to know your shortcomings.
    4 points
  3. any paint primer or top coat be it a conversion wash will ALWAYS adhere its best with sanding. Follow the direction on the can, it tells you how to prep for application. Further info in on their website and a very much recommended read. While it is an excellent first layer on metal, it is not the choice of body shops as they cannot wait days to go to the next step so ie the body shop high dollar primers for in by 8 out by 5 production. Though some high end restoration shops will use it and take the time to allow it to do its magic. Do allow for proper drying in the process prior to any top coat or sanding of this primer. The fish oils in the mix convert rust...if no rust and on seasoned paint or clean metal, the oil has to evaporate to the surface. Depending on temp and humidity, this could take a few days in good dry air with circulation down to 10-14 days if humid dark with little air exchange shop/building. This process can be sped up with spray application, thinning to proper viscosity using a high end enamel reducer, use of other lower grades reducer I cannot recommend no account for in their application and drying process.
    2 points
  4. so we did some horse trading yesterday....Ed got his coveted tailgate off my wall (sad to see it go) and I got a door from my hometown.
    2 points
  5. Hello all. New to the forum. I've been a long time Mopar fan but mostly owned 60s/70s cars/trucks (Plymouths in particular). I also own some old tractors (my grandfather's) that I have been working on. Recently I've been looking more at the pre60s Mopars, In particular my wife and I have become smitten with the DeSoto Suburbans. I ran into those while looking for a Plymouth Suburban. So I've been doing a lot of reading, being slightly familiar with the drive trains and such but wanting to know more. Also been watching a lot of ads to get an idea of what's out there. For us, anything we buy is purely for fun, not for concours or anything like that. Anyhow, thanks for having me. -RC
    1 point
  6. It has been a practice for the last 30 years to carry a box in the trunk of useful items for Breakdowns and Spares. Just curious what else people carry for safety and spares concerns? Suggestions? Found in the trunk of my car.... FIRE extinguisher, wheel chock, tow rope, rags & hand cleaner, small tool kit. Spares: tubes, V-belt, ignition parts, Oil, Brake Fluid, lug nut wrench, bumper jack (yes it is unsafe...wheel chock), jug of anti freeze or water, AAA card, battery operated radio.
    1 point
  7. Today I received my Moog CC850 springs from RockAuto, last week I received a kingpin set from Bernbaum. Monday, I should receive my leaf-springs. So when my friendly neighborhood repair guy said, "Great paint job, but you still have the suspension of a $75 car" he really didn't say that, that would have been the kind way of saying that I need to rebuild the front suspension and replace the leaf springs. The leaf-springs are "S" shape and every bushing rattles in the front. Never done this before, so here it goes starting Monday. Yes Honey I hear the dryer buzzing------
    1 point
  8. Actually have helped other fellow enthusiasts mostly.
    1 point
  9. Hubler13f, WOW!!!!! I shudder to think about what could‘ve happened compared to what did happen. That’s why I’m such a stickler about what I use on the inside of a car—potential toxic fumes=potential dead . . . . . Tragically, many such stories don’t end well, but I’m really glad this one ended on a happy note for you. This makes me think again about putting a small light near the parking brake handle with a flasher, or maybe even with a buzzer, hooked up to a brake switch mounted against the handle, so I won’t forget to release the handle (which I’ve done a time or two). Best regards . . .
    1 point
  10. I bet I can guess the second odor after you found out what you did....
    1 point
  11. Well, I did get one from Nuckleharley but before I can install it'll need re-plating.
    1 point
  12. Your car turned out really well !!
    1 point
  13. I ignore the sides as a starting point. I center the front and stretch it till the 1st bow has some tension and is starting to pull and straighten a couple behind it. Then go to the back and do the same to tension up the rear bows and make sure they all look evenly tensioned/ moderately tight and the listing seams are straight. Keep going front to rear till all the bow seams are tensioned even and look right and the sections look/ feel taught and have the headliner soft curve look to each section. Then work a little bit side to side stretching working the wrinkles out a section at a time. Work your way to the rear section at a time side to side. The last section around the rear window is last and same thing work it a little bit at a time till all wrinkles are out. Round and round the sections of headliner till you get it right. Don't over stretch it the first go around. A Little bit at a time. It's very important to properly center the headliner to the roof of the car in the beginning. Mark the roof and the headliner which probably already has centering marks. And Google vintage car headliner installation to get some more info. Expect to take a very long day or better two days so you can take a break to do a good proper wrinkle free job. You can use a clothes steamer to remove very slight wrinkles you cannot seem to remove. I've done five plymouths and chryslers 1946-52. Gook luck!!
    1 point
  14. WLS headliners, http://wlsheadliners.com/1946-to-1948-plymouth-special-deluxe-4-door-sedan-headliner.html. I have had this for two years waiting to get this far along. I think the color is saddle.
    1 point
  15. Not sure why there is a gash in the pass. side firewall. I should of pulled and repaired it before t came home. Sucks when all your tools are at your business....
    1 point
  16. Thought these were interesting.
    1 point
  17. Welcome to the Forum, RC. I visit several old car forums and can say this one is one of the best. Lots of information and knowledgeable folks with an affinity for sharing what they know, often with good natured ribbing and "humor". Searches will be your friend, but I've also found that after failing to find something with a search, (the subtle nuances of just what to search for often elude me), just throw the question out. You'll either get pointed to a good thread or location on the site, or given an answer. I'll warn you that photos are quasi-mandatory, and can be quite helpful.
    1 point
  18. Sorry that I havent put any pictures up yet. Been busy with our kids. Having teenagers in high school and prom for one was this past weekend. I just wanted to give a quick update to what my husband has been up to lately with our truck..... We did manage to get another engine for the truck. We found a 318 out of a 1970 Plymouth Duster. We also got a 904 transmission with the engine that came off the same Duster. So at least that is what we were told. But in the driveway the guy did have a 70 Duster parked that was rear ended. We do need to replace the gaskets and all that on the engine due to it has been sitting out of the car in a garage for a good amount of years. The same guy had a 1937 Dodge truck parked in his garage. We did ask if he was here on the forum but he never said exactly if he is or not. And here is a new picture of the cab now that it is primered.
    1 point
  19. stainless grill bars....drool...
    1 point
  20. 1 point
  21. The only thing I can say is that I echo everyone else’s compliments about your car. You’ve done a beautiful job, and now you get to savor the fruits of your labors—driving it. Do Enjoy!!! Regards.
    1 point
  22. That is a first class new floor. Beautiful! Great looking car also.
    1 point
  23. Great job! Did you have to redo interior?any other upgrades?
    1 point
  24. Wow! Nice work man. Its really a spectacular looking car; have fun with it!
    1 point
  25. i don't think a filter can suck air on the pressure side of pump , that would be leak .Ha Ha. If you a problem at top of second it is usually a fuel volume issue , a dirty filter, low float level , air leak in suction line, clogged suction line , fuel pump.. Did the motor stall?. Not a big fan of fuel filter on suction side. Closer to carburetor , I think is better.
    1 point
  26. I had Langdon's headers and a stock fuel pump with zero clearance issues.
    1 point
  27. Hi Andy, I'm not suggesting that we should expect there to be 11,000 cars out there. I'm just pointing out that 1% would give that figure - which has to be the upper end of the estimate for the likely total of survivors, even if you include unrestored cars, parts cars, street rods, customs, etc. It would be great to know, but it's largely down to guesswork.
    1 point
  28. Looks like my 230, which is so gooey on the outside that my wife renamed the truck it is going into "The Funk and Nastiness Express"...
    1 point
  29. It takes 3 guys with over 100 combined years of experiance 3 days to assemble an engine correctly. Could have done it quicker but we all had to tell a lot of lies between wrenchin.
    1 point
  30. That's good repair work. You make the effort sound easy. Good job.
    1 point
  31. Mike, Remove the drums and brake assembly. You'll have to remove the cotter pins and nuts from the back side that hold the steering arm to the spindle. These are also the bottom anchor pins for the brake shoes. You can tap them out of the steering arm to help the brake assembly removal. Then remove the two smaller 3/8" bolts that attach the brake plate to the top of the spindle. Disconnect the brake hose at the frame/brake line (you may want to do that first). Now the brake assembly will some right off of the spindle. Now remove the top welsh plug that covers the king pin. On mine both top plugs were already missing. Then remove the pin lock bolt. I was then able to use a hammer and drift to drive the pins out the bottom. They actually came out fairly easy on my truck. Once the pins are out the spindle will slide righ off of the axle, and the thrust bearing will probably fall on the floor I got my king pin set from Napa. I pressed the new bushings into my spindles after I drilled and tapped the holes per Charlie's instructions. Then one of my local Napa stores has a decent machine shop that was able to ream the bushings to fit the pins. Reassemble in reverse order. I just completed my brake conversion with new king pins. I took a lot of pictures and plan to do a complete write up on the process. Most of the pics are still on my camera and I don't have it handy to post any of them. If you want pics you'll have to wait until I have a chance to download the pics from my camera. Merle
    1 point
  32. The cheap, easy fix Robert-----paint your present knob black.
    1 point
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