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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/13/2017 in all areas

  1. Yesterday I paid a visit to Earl to pick up a cylinder head that he made for me. Earl lives in a beautiful town of Santa Rosa, about 50 miles North of San Francisco. The day was sunny and the trip was fun, with lush green landscapes of rain-drenched California. The head is a masterpiece, mirror-polished mating surface, superb casting job, and meticulous machining. The pictures on the web site don't do justice to the beauty of the part. Earl answered all my questions re. installation, and we discussed the casting process used to create a part with a complex internal cavity. He told me that he had produced several hundred heads for Mopar flat six engines, all of them in use, with no problems. Earl himself is a passionate Mopar fan and one of the few top experts. He showed me his Chrysler modded for racing in Bonnevile (~140 mph top speed!) with all custom parts you can imagine - head with OHV intake valves, intake manifold, Langdon headers, cam gear and valve covers, 12V electric. As he confirmed, everything but block and crank is custom. Earl's garage is like a museum. Earl is a very nice guy. I highly recommend him for anybody who is contemplating engine upgrade.
    2 points
  2. To release the hood, the handle has to be pushed towards the radiator or towards the engine. You might also try pushing down on the hood at the same time you are pushing the hood lever.
    2 points
  3. I thought this was interesting: http://allteresting.com/witness-the-magic-of-the-internal-combustion-engine-in-this-4k-slo-mo-video/?pa=tech&g=3
    1 point
  4. That MC looks very similar to my '52 MC. I installed a 97 Cherokee MC behind my OE MC. I gutted the OE and extended the push rod. Now I have a dual chamber MC which I prefer. All that is needed is a spacer mount.
    1 point
  5. If it has only a little very light rust you can get by with a kit . if you see pits , get a new one or have your existing master cylinder sleeved as Dodgeb4ya mentioned . If you decide to get it sleeved , it will be done in stainless or brass and the next time that it goes out you can just put in a kit for sure .
    1 point
  6. 1 point
  7. There were some previous posts on a problem with the starters of the later engines not fitting the earlier bell housings . Even a mention of cutting the starter housing down to make it fit . Sorry I don't have anything more specific .
    1 point
  8. Not completely familiar with that carb, but if it is similar to the carter it should have a vacuum path from the intakemwnifoldthrough gasket to the base of the carb. That vacuum signal functions to control the step up /power jet. This jet provides for extra fuel after the initial squirt from the accelerator pump. High vacuum at cruise and idle keeps the valve closed against spring pressure, no or low vacuum lets it stay open. Your carb is mounted off center, plus you have mismatched gaskets, one or both of those items could be causing a total or partial blocking of the vacuum signal, leaving you power jet open all the time. I have seen a car (54 Plymouth station wagon with OD) go from 9 or 10 miles per gallon to 17 to 19 mpg, by assuring this valve and vacuum signal are operating correctly.
    1 point
  9. Matt: This is rich Hartung with a 39 Desoto and I have the reflectors like in the 39 Plymouth. Call me and I will walk you through the process. I live near valley forge PA, where do you live? Cell 484-431-8157 Home 610-630-9188 desoto1939@aol.com
    1 point
  10. I just bought a 55 Plymouth 4dr for parts last week because it has a 230 in it with the actual automatic transmission. It had been sitting for over 8 years since last started,so it was stuck pretty tight. A socket with a 2 foot handle attached to it and pushed on to "one grunt" didn't impress it at all. BTW,if anyone has a single barrel 230 carb with the dashpot for a automatic trans they want to sell,I sure could use one. Someone told me about Kroil penetrating oil recently,so I bought some to use on the Plymouth. I put 1 ounce in each cylinder,and when I put the 2 foot breaker bar to it 15 minutes later,yes,I DID write "15 minutes later",it started turning before I even got to the grunt. http://www.kanolabs.com/penLub.html I started trying this oil on a super stuck 55 DeSoto hemi this afternoon. Someone had packed this engine so full of the red Georgia powdered clay that I literally couldn't screw the spark plugs in it. This one had to come apart,so I pulled the engine and pulled the heads a couple of years ago,poured the cylinders full of WD,and absolutely nothing happened. After a couple of years the WD-40 just disappeared,but if it penetrated past the rings I can see or feel no evidence of it. It may have poured out one of the time I was moving the block around. Anyhow,the block is sitting upright now with no heads on it,so I decided to test the Kroil as it sat. I sprayed it in at the top and sides of each piston,and sprayed enough to have a little puddle of Kroil at the bottom of each piston. Went away for a hour,and when I came back almost all the Kroil had leaked down on one cylinder,and some had leaked down on another. Red Georgia Clay was still winning on 6 of them. So I sprayed the two that had leaked down again,and let them sit for a almost 3 hours. The two that had leaked down had completely leaked down this time,and I THINK two more had leaked down some. So I filled them again and shut the shop up and came in the house. Going to check them again in the morning to see if I am making any progress. I am temped to just roll the block up on one side so one bank of pistons is horizontal,and then spray enough Kroil in each one to completely cover the piston tops,and then wait a couple of hours to see what happens. I am pretty sure that by tomorrow afternoon I will have one bank of pistons covered with Kroil,the head back on that bank,and 150 psi of air connected to a cylinder. I just don't see any way that even that Ga Clay,which has the consistency of concrete,can stand up to that oil with 150 psi of air behind it. This is a low-mileage 291 "S" option DeSoto hemi that doesn't even have a ridge in the cylinder walls,so I want to save it. Plans are to put it and a push-button 727 in my 33 Plymouth coupe one day.
    1 point
  11. I think ad should read 440 with long Ram intake for sale. $12,000 with '48 rat rod attached, $15,500 without.
    1 point
  12. I have been to 3 Dog garage near my home many times. This is a working museum with lots of old hot rods and road racing cars. It's only open by appointment and then for only about 4 hours. just thought I'd share some pics I took. The one pic is of the 36 Ford that won the Ridler award back in 2006 I think. All these car are owned by Ross Meyer
    1 point
  13. Thanks for the Kudos. Sure, I will give rides, that's a big part of having them. Even though my kids think that they are theirs already. LOL
    1 point
  14. Dad is here. A visit. News. The Dodge is mine again. It was never not mine, since I was 16. I drove it daily till I was 30 when it was wrecked. I spent all my money on a lawyer chasing a drunk with nothing and nothing was left to fix it. I sold it. 23 years ago. The day I sold it. 23 years ago. Dad bought it back. He and Jim kept it a secret. Working on it occasionally as time and manning and money permitted. Stored away in the hot rod shop. Waiting for 23 years. Till I wanted it back. I almost bought one in Chicago last month. It was sold the day I arrived to look at it. The title, in my name, never transferred has sat in secret in Dads lock box waiting. For 35 years it has been my car. Before that, since 1957, Dad was the second owner of the Ol Dodge. Its coming home.
    1 point
  15. Never had one on a Mopar car ( have 2 Ebay bought vac./fuel pumps ( old ) rebuilds that did not work waiting for rebuild) ) but did on a 54 Ford v-8 and the vac. pump/fuel pump totally replaces the manifold hookup to the wipers and ran to the pump only and would run at the adjusted speed via the wiper control no matter up hill, foot to the floor. Manifold vacuum no longer matters as long as the pump is in good condition. DJ
    1 point
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