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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/31/2017 in all areas

  1. Well, got a couple problems solved. Got the old 6v system charging again like it should. Rebuilt generator, the shop said was out of an Airflow, and cleaning up some wiring solved that problem. After going through all the wiring, I missed one wire going to the distributor that had a flaky end on it, causing no spark. Looked good, as it was one of the original soldered wires. Darn thing turned out to be only making about 50% of the time. Anyway, got it running well enough to take it down the road a bit. Clutch pedal feels sluggish going in and out. Seems to shift into all gears ok, pedal iis just slow. Same with the brake pedal, might be a little mushy too. I imagine the old pucks might be a little corroded. Will have to look into the brake system at some point. Didn't seem to want to shift into high gear in either range. I'm hoping the idle was set to fast for it to shift. So, on to all the new challenges. I did find out that my shop manual should be here Wednesday, so that should help. Thanks everyone for all the assistance and patience thus far getting the ol girl back on her feet. Tom B
    2 points
  2. The factory didn't supply a shift boot for the floor shifts. The floor mat was cut tight to the transmission tower. This from looking at Don Bunns book and truck sales films.
    2 points
  3. I had six pools of water on top of the engine, so I built a dam that fits underneath the hood centerline. It’s angled abit toward the rear. It runs from just behind the radiator to just in front of the firewall. I painted it flat black to match the underside of the hood, and if you don’t know it’s there, you don’t even notice it. Any and all water that comes thru the hood’s center seam just lands on the dam, and gravity takes care of the rest – the water flows off at the back. I’ve had this in place for over three years, and no more puddles, and no more rusting of the plugs – problem solved. Keep in mind, tho’, that when I made this, I wasn’t aware of the Everydry plug boots. Thx.
    2 points
  4. A reproduction factory shop manual will have most of the repair procedures detailed. To identify the truck, there should be a data plate on the driver door jamb, between the hinges...it will have the model and serial #, which can decoded on t137.com. To identify the engine, t137 details what to look for and which table to read from. If working on a budget, you will want to keep modifications to a minimum and focus on repairs. These old beasts can snowball on ya with upgrades to powertrain, brakes, electrical, safety...tires alone can set ya back nearly 1k, if ya factor in cleaning up the wheels properly; powertrain work can get up to 5k with machining, new precision parts and seals; fuel system cleaning and repairs can be 500-1000; exhaust can be 500-1000, depending on if it is split or not...and the body work? Yeah, you'll need to learn how to all of it yourself to keep costs down...there is a way to repaint with a foam roller method that can be done for a few hundo, but it is time consuming... If there is rustout on the fenders near the rivets or on the cab around the floor, that will definitely need to be addressed first. But the most important thing you will need is patience...getting in a hurry can be costly and lead to losing interest...I have a side yard full of other ppl's projects who tore into an old beast then lost interest, and I got to save those machines from the scrap heap. Being methodical with your work, planning each stage of work before turning any wrenches, and being disciplined enough to persevere through each stage of the work is required. Starting your own build thread on this forum could be helpful in documenting your progress, asking questions to get some help in solving problems, and sharing any new information with fellow enthusiasts... asking questions is good, but starting new thread after new thread on the same project is not really encouraged. But above all, have fun with what you have and enjoy the work as its own reward...let the truck be its own trophy by driving it as much as you can, and leave the competition for trophies to the big shots who need their egos stroked
    2 points
  5. When disassembling anything on the truck write yourself notes and TAKE PICTURES, LOTS OF PICTURES. It's amazing how quickly you can forget how something came apart even though you are sure you will remember. Been there and done that. Good luck with the project.
    1 point
  6. 21-29-25 comes up as the shift cover gasket....
    1 point
  7. 3 underneath, total of 13 nuts.
    1 point
  8. The nylon might melt in the nylocks from the heat of the exhaust manifold . Vintage Power wagons sells the correct nuts and washers .
    1 point
  9. I would be crapping one of those ice blocks if I had my truck on the ice with that much weight. I have a hard time believing in the strength of ice.
    1 point
  10. I think this link will provide some interesting data and photos for those interested in this issue. Yes,it IS a page about military Ford engines used during WW-2,so if the mere mention of a Non-Mopar causes your panties to get all wadded up,ignore it. For those of you who realize that if the military required Ford to do this they also required GM and Mopar to do it,also. Knowing something exists and then knowing the keywords to use to find it are the keys. I would be very surprised if the Mopar guys in the mid-west (Oklahoma) that sell all the surplus military 3/4 ton 4x4 truck stuff doesn't have these things for sale. I can't remember their business name right now,but I am sure someone reading this will know who I am writing about. http://g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=81075
    1 point
  11. Why would anyone need two bicycles? You can only ride one at a time.
    1 point
  12. a third pic of ice day: first load was 23 blocks, @ 225 per block (5000+ lbs). 2nd load was 16 blocks (no more blocks available).
    1 point
  13. and another, from a different year, same location, photo by john burns:
    1 point
  14. picture taken yesterday of my truck, photo by bill harper:
    1 point
  15. Thanks for sharing those photos guys--I don't know much about Aussie's except that my grandfather fought next to some of them as a Marine in the Pacific Theater in WWII and thought the world of them. He was also sent to Australia for convalescence after getting wounded and had fond memories of your country and it's citizens. My fiancé and I have you on our bucket list of places to see I really want to do some hunting/fishing if I ever make it down there.
    1 point
  16. With the hoods on cars that split down the center, moisture could drip down on the exposed plugs and wires directly below. Causing possible poor starting or running in wet weather.
    1 point
  17. This is my 49 b1, have been working on it for two years.
    1 point
  18. Here my 1948 B1. Bought it after sitting since 1955. The women I bought it from said it was her grandfathers. She remembers playing on it when she was a little kid when he first parked it.
    1 point
  19. Here is my 1951 Dodge B3B that I bought in February of 2016. I just got it started this week and plan on driving it around the block this afternoon if all goes well.
    1 point
  20. Progress report! Lots of work done on the old girl. Front brakes installed and working well enough, still need to bleed them better. Good enough for my first real drive! It made it there and back, but let's just say I'm glad there wasn't anybody from the EPA following me. So you know that little round gasket on top of the oil filter canister? It turns out if that is bad the car will leak oil at speed. A lot of oil. Like 2 1/2 quarts in 15 miles. Bright side is that the undercarriage is well lubricated now. I didn't know there was a problem until something started running down the floorboard under my right foot. I thought it blew the oil gauge line, but no, it was that gasket leaking oil and blowing it through the speedometer cable grommet. What a mess. Anyway, the car made it there and back, about 20 miles. Even before the oil leak fiasco I noticed the car has a knock under load, not unlike a rod or main bearing kinda sound, and oil pressure at hot idle was barely on the gauge. Decided to pull the rod and main bearings to check them out and was surprised to find they really weren't too bad. Not bad enough to cause a knock anyway from what I could tell. Put in a new set of bearings anyway, since it seemed like a good time to do it. Well, the knock is still there, but now the oil pressure holds at about 20psi hot idle, so I guess that's something. Then of course there's the other engine noise. Sounds like a pretty loud tappet tick. Set the valves with the car running yesterday hoping it was just a maintenance issue, but no such luck. Found a few loose, and a few too tight, but the tick remains. The part that has me stumped is that while setting the valves, the tick would go away when the feeler gauge was inserted in between any of the tappets. I would get it if the tick went away when lash was at zero on a single tappet, but for the noise to go away when the feeler gauge was in any of them has me perplexed. Could the cam bearings be that bad that its actually moving up and down with the added pressure? I got nothin'. Said screw it. Bottom end seems good, valves are adjusted, great oil pressure, keeps cool, and it runs great. Just gonna drive it noisy for the summer. It'll either work or it won't. Maybe. Invited the wife to go to lunch with me, in a town about 20 miles away, her first time even sitting in the car. Head out of the shop, and go to shift to second gear... Wait, where the hell is second gear? And third? Where did all my gears go? Booooo. The wifes first ride in the car lasted one block. Needless to say, she didn't seem impressed. Anyway, some pictures! daughter says "its old and stinky!" She's right on both counts sadly. Haha. Now every time we leave the house they ask if we can drive "the old old car."
    1 point
  21. Great looking car, another more - door saved from the scrap heap!
    1 point
  22. I just used a 50's 12 volt generator from a junk yard in my 52 pickup conversion. It's been working for about 15 years now.
    1 point
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