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I'm liking this group so far and have been browsing for a while now and finally decided to join. My Wife and I own a 1957 Fargo D100! We have owned it for 3 years and finally got it on the road just 2 months ago. It had sat in a barn for almost 30 years before we got it so it didn't run and needed a fair bit of TLC. All of the work was done by myself and done with a pretty tight budget, I tried to keep things as original as possible and left the body as found. It has the original Flathead 6 (250ci) engine, 3 on the tree trans, and manual steering and brakes. The truck was gone through mechanically from one end to the other to make it road worthy and safe. So far in the couple of months we've had it on the road we've managed to put about 700 miles on the truck with very few issues. I love driving this truck!

I look up DeSoto Suburban and see a familiar vehicle.

Has anyone else looked up their car model on Wikipedia only to find a picture of THEIR CAR? Just for the heck of it I pulled up the article on the Dodge Wayfarer and when I got to 1950 I thought "Hey someone else has one the same color as mine!". I looked closer and it was my car - a picture taken at the W.P.C. National meet her in Minnesota several years ago. Appearance-wise about all that has changed since that picture is the addition of Diamondback wide whitewalls. What I found amazing was the comment in the footnote saying it was too bad the car was lowered and has custom wheels. I have slightly sagging springs - my car is not lowered and those "custom wheels" are Dodge wheel covers that probably date from the early 50's.

Just returned from our trip to Belfast Maine for the WPC meet. Turn out was a little disappointing our class 46 to 54 had the largest turn out with 12 cars, there were 3 prewar vehicles and the rest were 59 and newer. We had a good trip caravaning with Mark D, Rich W, and Mike M, through the hills and valleys of Mass, NH, and Maine. Did the circle of Acadia National Park on the Auto Loop. Climbed Mt. Cadillac in the park, 3rd gear all the way up, 2nd gear all the way down. Shared the area roads with the NE Classic Car Association, Packards, Cadillacs, Lincolns, and other "true" classics, several Buggatis touring as a group, what looked like the Winnebago Dealers of America Association (32, they were numbered, Identical new Motorhomes traveling en masse) and of course Mopars all out and about on RT 1 and other roads. We logged 1341 miles, without so much as a hiccup. Used 71.6 gallons of gas, 18.7 mpg, and 1 quart of oil. Saw the sea, ate some Lobster, sampled some local brews, all in all an enjoyable week. Signs seen along the way; JUST OIL and more. Home decor and Chocolate, Rustic Furniture and Fudge, and Wild Raspberries. Call to order. (some sort of Rogers Rules of Parliamentary Procedure thing I guess) Will get some pictures up as soon as I unpack my Camera or finish my nap, which ever comes first. here are a few teasers from Mark D's FB Mark, Mike and I ready to saddle up from Lancaster, Mass, the gathering at the rented homestead in Belfast, Near the Penobescott Narrows Bridge on the Way to Acadia Park,and on the Auto loop in Acadia NP.

I did not use a kit. Bell housing was removed and machined to perfectly adapt the T5 and installed a roller pilot bearing. I don't believe the install has anything to do with the vibration. It did the same thing with the original 3 speed. Yes, I believe the vibration occurs both when clutch pedal is enagaged or disengaged. I think what I'm going to do, is go ahead with installing a harmonic balancer and if problem still exists after that I'll concentrate on flywheel and pressure plate.

Update time again. Fixed a bunch of rust on daughter's X-90. It had been sitting for 8 years, got a new fuel pump, rebuilt the trans, some brake work and fresh paint. Once again it's her daily driver. Brother's '03 Mustang with fresh paint after some rust, some hail damage, rear main seal and r & p replaced, light and wheel and tire upgrades, seat material upgraded to leather. Flowmaster exhaust behind the V6 makes it sound pretty good. And something for myself this year. Got the box painted as well as rear fenders repaired and painted. Originally this truck served duty as a shop truck for a filling station so it was a bit rough.

There is a critical setting of the solenoid plunger to pinion gear adjustment. If the starter drive pinion gear bottoms out at the starter motor housing before the solenoid plunger copper disc makes contact with the two large battery and starter winding studs the starter won't turn over and crank. The solenoid plunger is internally threaded for pinion gear clearance and this also affects whether or not the copper contact disc inside the solenoid reaches and makes good electrical contact with the solenoid battery stud and starter winding stud. If the solenoid plunger does not push the copper disc firmly against the two large solenoid studs the starter motor will not turn the engine over. That rare and very costly solenoid supposedly is new so hopefully all contacts inside it are like new and good. I think this adjustment is almost right but not quite.

When parked in neutral revving the engine up do you get the vibration or is it just when moving? Same in all gears or just in high gear?

If I could fine racks wide enough! And longboards would have to be loaded on them. A real hula girl on the parcel shelf would be 10 fold better.

Couple more.

I found some fenders in Leeds UK which is about 70 miles from me. They were pretty battered but at over 70 years old they are a bit rare.

from the show

classing up Camden Maine Streets.

The line up seeing the sights.

I woud be carful of anything wher they cant spell mesage.

I have Posie springs, front/rear under my '39, they work great. You have to be careful modifying springs and/or adapting springs from other vehicles, the spring rate might be completely different from your Dodge. If you buy springs from a company like Posies or Eaton, the wire size etc., will be engineered to fit your car. Wm.

So how was the fishing behind the tire store?

48 D24

They look really good on the truck.

For what it is worth I used AAJ brakes conversion stuff - front and rear disc brakes, and tandem master cyl bracket. Roger recommended using a corvette master cylinder , but I ended up using a master power brakes remote reservoir master cylinder due to floor clearance issues. Works perfect.

There is a very good chance that both oil and antifreeze have been spilled into the exhaust system while you were cleaning things up or perhaps someone oiled things up before it sat idle for so long. It might take several miles of driving for the system to burn off all the oil or antifreeze. Check the radiator level. If it stays clean and full, you are ok. dp

My 41 Windsor Coupe was not listed on Wikipedia. But when I was researching the model on Google, before I bought the car, pictures of it appear from 2009 at an auction in Hersey, Pennsylvania and 2010 in Montreal.

I think he meant miles not miles per hour....

All about how well they were cared for. Dads former 50 plymouth was over 100K on the engine without being touched. My p15 came out of the scrap yard at 76K. There have been others on here that went over 100K without opening them up for major work.

tell me...did it run fine, no smoking, seem to have the power to pull away and cruise with no effort......engine not running hot,....tranny not jumping out of gear, rear gear not screaming I need bearings, braking is smooth., wiring not fried......what is wrong, just can't stand prosperity....

Corrections welcome on photo #2. Guess I'm now an advocate, if the fibrous brake lining gets "soaked" (contaminated) you're SOL. Replace them and be done. Riding the brake to create heat won't help. Just don't screw up if you're in the process of installing new shoes and ruin them.

Don't forget to include the cooling system when calculating engine placement.

Yes. I have the clean, clear Illinois title in hand

Yeah I'm not going to use stop leak....figured I'll just bypass the heater core for now and take it to be repaired.

It is all stock, 230 ci flatty, 3 speed trans, 4.89 rear end. I wanted to get to Tim's BBQ this past April but the stars did not line up. It is on the calendar for next year, God willing. Paint is all original color etc. We just scotch bright rubbed the surface and then used Hot Rod Flatz, flat clear to seal it up. It looks real convincing up close. Often folks ask is this the paint how you found it? It did brighten up the color a little. Pic below is how I found it. Other pic is after it was flat cleared.

Cool!It could be a Transformer car!

My daughter has nicknamed her "oL Rusty". Thanks for all the great advice from the forum members. Looking forward to meeting some of you at the shows.

A problem I have found is when these flatties sit for a long period of time w/o being turned over is that they hang exhaust valves-sometimes really hang them. If you're still having starting problems I'd check the compression on all cylinders and see if you have about the same amount in all cylinders. Sometimes a hung valve will let go with a shot of MMO down the throat of the carb while the engine is running, but I've also had them so stuck that I had to pull the head and work them with oil to get them moving again.

not sure which distributor you have but I had a problem when the bakelite insulator broke off and the coil wire that passes through the housing was shorting out causing no spark its the black wire in the photo with the yellow end. I used a piece of plastic (actually a ball point pen) to create a tube for the wire to run through and immediately had spark

It's a foot rest. Intertained my self with the idea that folks would stick their head in the window and figger it was a manual trans.