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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/14/2016 in all areas

  1. Roberts Motor Parts offers a 30 day return policy on most items except electrical or custom Items for product that is unused and unaltered. It is the right of any consumer to feel the way they feel about whatever they purchase. No one is compelled or encouraged in anyway to keep items that they are not happy with in fact I would prefer people did not keep items that they are not happy with. I will be happy to discuss this with the customer which I have not had a chance to do prior to his negative review of both my product and my company's handling of his concerns. Gary Roberts Jr. 978 363 5407
    4 points
  2. That's wierd, my Roberts Floor Mat still looks to be in good shape despite how long it's been on and how much abuse it gets. I have to agree with Gary and he has always made good on anything that I purchased from him. The only time something wasn't right for me is that my 51 has the "hump" on the door panel. I got the straight one and when I asked Gary about it he sent the correct one out to me no charge.I know Gary and Gary always tries to do the right thing by us. Hank
    3 points
  3. I have the ECI conversion. The Wheels Vintique Hot Rod Rallye wheels work perfectly.
    3 points
  4. I couldn't help but notice the connection between your name and your city. If you were one of my buddy's I think we would have nick-named you "Titanic" Looks like fun, my plan is to also get back into the truck shows this summer.
    2 points
  5. I would be happy to discuss your transaction and would be happy to offer you a refund for an unused or unaltered item that did not meet your expectations. I can be reached at 978 363 5407
    2 points
  6. for sure, no I wasn't thinking the "original style" I was thinking have a pattern that matched the correct size. that is what I thought the complaint and topic was about.... the "fit" I can't imagine the 8" to 10" additional inches of material would be that price difference. as far as the quality.... if it is mentioned somewhere as far as the pattern and thickness than buyer beware. again, I do appreciate the business and customer service you provide. Thanks Gary
    2 points
  7. There is a wire in your distributor that moves every time that you use the throttle . The wire is attached to a plate . If the wire is touching metal where it shouldn't , then your engine will cut out when you use the throttle . Lots of times the insulation gets worn off or the wire could be broken inside of the insulation . The wire is made of very fine strands because it has to flex a lot .
    2 points
  8. Hi all, went for a drive today, even had windows rolled down......
    1 point
  9. heads up to all member...GTK was able to link the classifieds to the main page....this hopefully will give ads a better chance of "eyes on" and cut out the number of ads posted directly to the forum pages...win win for us all
    1 point
  10. Former fire pumper, sat around in the fire hall all its life waiting for a fire. Has approx 20,000 miles on it.
    1 point
  11. 1 point
  12. I usually go. Hope to see you and the Way Back Machine there. On a side note; the Good Guys car show is back in Rhinebeck this year. On the other side note; The Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome will have their 1929 Chandler on display there and a booth in one of the buildings.
    1 point
  13. 1 point
  14. they are not spirol springs but stainless steel looking leaf springs--they are the same basic shape as the copper connector that goes from the pivot point to the coil connection
    1 point
  15. Well it has taken me 8 years to get to this point but my '49 is finally to a point I can now enjoy it. Just thought I would share the start to finish. Found her up in Mt Shasta back in 08, paid $1200 for her, 3rd owner. Want to thank everyone here that I have bugged thru the years for info.
    1 point
  16. I agree Brent. And with all the model variants there is just no way anyone could have all the bases covered. Without guys like Gary we would all be in pretty sad straits. As far as a timing or schedule issue goes......we set these ourselves and are ultimately responsible. With one of these "less popular" trucks it will end up taking as long as it takes to get it right. Jeff
    1 point
  17. My lift bay has a ceiling height of 11'-11" and would still work at somewhere around 11'-6" I prefer the 2 poster so the wheels will be free to spin. I didn't trust my 2 poster to stay put with only expansion bolts so I made struts from the top of the lift posts over to the framing. A little more earthquake proof this way.
    1 point
  18. Hello and thanks for all the welcomes! Here's some more info. 1939 9 foot Express model TE, could be registered and licensed back then as either 1 ton or 1 1/2 ton, the choice of the original purchaser. WB 133", 218 cu.in. Curb wt approx 4200#, nameplate GVW is 7000#. Rear axle ratio is 4.875:1. Those are 20" tires, circumference approx 114". Palisades Interstate Park Comm over on the Hudson bought two of these trucks. This one was converted for fire service by removing the express body sides and ends leaving the bottom, rear fenders and long running boards. They constructed a body enclosing a water tank, hoses, fittings small fire extinguishers and other equipment. A good sized pump was mounted to the front bumper and driven by the front of the engine crankshaft. In 1972 they traded for a new fire engine; the Dodge having 4000+ miles recorded on the odometer. My father bought it in July 1982 with odo reading of 6900+. Winter of 82-83, he removed the fire equipment body and siren, (the pump and loose equipment long gone). Sand blasted cab, frame, fenders, wheels, etc., to remove layers of alligatored paint. Mechanically, the truck was very good, all parts functioned, sheet metal had no perforations and little rust, and engine shafts and bores measured to original manufactured sizes. Most of the rubber parts were perished and replaced along with hydraulic brake parts, wiring harness, piston rings and header tube, water and fuel pumps, generator and regulator, rear axle pinion shaft seal, exhaust system, gaskets and seals, etc. Took apart trans, rear axle and steering gear box to clean and adjust. Took apart cleaned, adjusted wiper motor, throw-out bearing, starter motor, distributor, window cranks and door locks. In 1939, Dodge offered a choice of three colors for the cab, hood and body: dark green, dark blue and red, with all black fenders and running gear. This truck was painted dark green at the factory. It is now 1939 Dodge Truck 20th Century Red. I have the old-machine disease, too, having had 30s Cadillacs, Packard, a Model A, and other stuff for the last fifty years. I bought the truck from Dad ten or twelve years ago. It will haul a ton and a half load of rock or firewood down or up the road easily at 50mph in 4th gear. In the picture, it's dressed up for the 4th of July parade in our little town.
    1 point
  19. Just a thumbnail impression says the most numerous W-models are 1946-1947, with 41-42 next, and 38-40 after that. Craigslist seems to always have a Job Rated listed someplace. From the parts availability I'd say there are a good many 42 left, and maybe 60% or more are mostly original (bed replacement, big electrical changes being the most common). The rust you have seems to be fairly common. The repro tailgates are OK, but I've repaired my originals. On one tailgate, I replaced the lower portion with a new tube, and with another I used a tube as a mandrel to smooth out the dents and spent waaayyy too much time patching. I think the result was worth the work but that was back when the repros were not readily available. The old steel welds up very nicely and predictably so that rust repairs are pretty straightforward. The generator-alternator conversions seem like a good deal because you'd be getting better output at low rpm's. I've been driving with generators and lead acid since forever with no issues in the charging/running department. For the past 10 or so years I've been using red top Optima 6 volt batteries in all my 6 volt-generator vehicles and I am extremely pleased. Very predictable failure profiles and very good charge holding characteristics and their health is very easy to monitor, much easier than wet lead-acid.
    1 point
  20. Thank for taking the time to chime in on this Gary. Let me say, I have called you before about a product issue a few years ago and you made it right. Thank you for that. My question is In a case like this, would you ever ask for a pattern (like ggdad has) to make a reproduction or do you get your products from another vendor? also, would ever seek product knowledge from the owners of the vehicles your business caters too, to insure the correct product? or has that research been done?
    1 point
  21. I am new here and happened across the forum! I have a 1941 Dodge D-19 Coupe that has been in the family since 1955! Anyway, I still need some advice and odds and ends so, I thought I would post here! Looking forward to some great postings!
    1 point
  22. I would think if a company was making a brake kit that would require changing size and offset of rims for application to your car..the data supporting wheel requirement would be forthcoming in their brochure or installation instructions. Perhaps a message back tot he supplier would be quicker and easier and should give you an exact set of figures to deal with over that of what someone here may have lucked up on
    1 point
  23. The Ontario trucks do have a different letter style then US, and that includes other manufacturers, as I just found out when I was searching my 51 F3 Ford yesterday. I'm surprised at the 228 in the 1 ton, almost all I've seen here have been 218's as well...but maybe it was swapped from another truck, but it should be a direct drop into place, with exception of the stuff 48dodger mentioned. I went from 218 to a 251 with no issues, but I also dropped my 4 speed and went to a T5 with OD
    1 point
  24. When I did a serial number search the records came back as F0-108 the serial number plate includes this information as well. Thanks for your responses guys I'm really excited about this little truck. Tomorrow we pull the whole drive line from the 1 ton. Like a boy I'm excited!
    1 point
  25. In my collection of yard art, I have a '52 near complete FD rolling chassis with title that may get a '51 near complete donor body, and have taken note of the various experiences & opinions of other FD drivers. With your rear axle ratio change, I am kinda wondering if the FD coupling is slipping from excess loading. Changing your tire size may reduce this loading, but it might not be enough as the fluid inside the coupling can only shear so much before slipping...if your dead load is in excess of that maximum shear force in the coupling, then the clutch may be mating up as it should but the coupling continues to slip. I bring this up as I have seen hydrostatic transmissions on small tractors really heat up and start to slip from overloading by operators in the springtime, usually when mowing thick tall weeds on property that the tractor can easily mow when the vegetation is shorter (less load). Others may have made the swap to the 3.55 and have had good results with their standard clutch setup, but what may be lurking over the horizon for them is an inevitable nagging clutch slippage that will have to be addressed. The FD appears to be amplifying this issue, as it is designed to slip to protect the clutch and other driveline components. As far as the accuracy of the factory parts manual is concerned, I generally take that information with a grain of salt, as I have seen errors in catalogs from Mopar, GM, CaseIH / IHC, John Deere, Subaru...they are small errors, but when ordering parts, an error is an error if things don't line up or fit. At 2 previous OEMs I worked, the parts guys would rely on info from the engineering dept, and engineering mgmt. would make the business decision to put the least amount of resources as possible into maintaining legacy equipment, as they would surmise that any problems in this area would either work themselves out as equipment would disappear through attrition and/or there would not be enough parts sales to justify the engineering time needed to straighten this out. There was one repair kit we sold for $20 that had the wrong hardware called out; to change the documentation would cost engineering about $200 in ECNs and dispositions, the parts involved cost $5, and sales were weak annually but steady, so mgmt. assumed that service depts. in the field were fixing the problem out of their pocket and opted to allocate resources elsewhere (even though I had marked up all of the drawings / parts lists involved for revisions, it still needed to pass through half dozen other ppl for proper documentation). And the running change in engineering was the biggest culprit of errors in parts catalog, with these Pilot House trucks seeming to have them when referencing the S/N application notes for parts disposition. At any rate, if there are more than one FD clutch applications out there, I would not be surprised...I have found on two of these trucks that the parts on truck (one being an entire engine) don't match up to what is in the catalog...one truck has a Chevy air cleaner on it, ya may have a clutch disc from a Studebaker in there for all we know
    1 point
  26. Great truck! As for value, keeping it as original as possible maintains value the best, and in my opinion is the best way to enjoy the time machine. I see converted Job Rated projects with a variety of engines and modifications, and they sit with 'for sale' signs for much longer than an original will. The 41-42 built trucks often had some military components on them as the factory decided what was going where. Often the military steel-edged windows found their way onto civilian trucks, and I've seen many components with OD green under the factory applied 'color'. It was an interesting time for MoPar. There is a Yahoo group that many members here also belong to that provides great info for these pickups.
    1 point
  27. ...should.... since both are 25" the swap should be straight forward.
    1 point
  28. I told the waitress that my coffee tasted like mud. She said; "It should, it was ground this morning".
    1 point
  29. Was there ever a solution to this? And Pyrodork new questions. I fought my horn for weeks. Maybe the discussion, and photos, will help. http://p15-d24.com/topic/40502-49-chrys-horn-horn-ring/ There is one wire going up the column 6v, which you need to install. Check that cut wire to see if its 6v. Grounding it may toot the horn. (with key on). If good, run the wire topside. Only 3 pieces up there. The spring keeps the horn button from making contact. Pressing the button makes the connection to the Y thing which is ground, and the horn should honk. Good luck. Those old horns sound great.
    1 point
  30. Everything should fit fine. I believe you mean FN-1? I haven't seen a FO-1 listed before. Going from a 1 Ton to a 1/2 Ton shouldn't be a problem as most of the differences are in the bed length/size and axle ratings. The transmissions that came with the different trucks should all fit as well, Fluid Drive, 4 speed and 3 three speed on the tree. Cutting a hole for the shifter and disengaging your steering column should be your biggest problems. Having shared all that, note the "should" I included...lol. I don't have a Fargo, don't live in Canada, and have never done this swap. But I do have a large number of parts trucks etc and a bunch of experience with Dodge trucks. Hope this threads grows and you get the answer you need! 48D
    1 point
  31. This is the old girl as she sits today.
    1 point
  32. Loaded my in bed back up transportation ( LOL) for the first time before a few test drives. Much more to do, running boards, cut and buff and decal work ect but she's out of storage and when weather permits I'll get her done
    1 point
  33. Wow you got some nice stuff all real. Mine is just a recreation of a belt drive indian done board track style. started out as a 48 Shelby bike frame. here is a real one and mine
    1 point
  34. Hallo aus Nord-Deutschland
    1 point
  35. Glad you and your car survived. I got lucky 2 years ago with my P-15. I just happened to have a fire extinguisher between the bucket seats,and the car backfired and caught fire under the hood. I stopped it,jumped out,and fogged everything in sight under the hood with the fire extinguisher,and managed to save the car, The carb was melted,and all the wiring under the hood was shot. The car only had red and black wires when I bought it,and I knew it needed to be rewired and done right. I have a brand new Ron Francis wiring loom sitting in a box to install as soon as I can make room to put the P-15 in the shop and pull it apart. The motor was losing oil pressure,the trans was starting out in second gear and slipping,and the engine was so close to the firewall all the engine heat was coming right into the car. Going to pull the tired 305/Turbo 250 out of it,recess the firewall,clean everything up,and then put the balanced and blueprinted 412 SBC and 700R4 I pulled out of my old van in it. They only have about 20 K miles on them,and I already scrapped the van so I might as well use them in the P-15. Then I have to start sanding down shiny paint and gobs of body plastic so I can start welding in patch panels. The car was rust,covered with gobs of plastic and shiny paint. Really looked good when I bought it,though.
    1 point
  36. Good thread Brent...I learned something. 48D
    1 point
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