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Original style bias ply tires are available, but if you intend to drive the car more than occasionally then radial tires will make it handle and ride much better. Modern radial tires with wide white walls are available from Coker, Diamondback and other vendors.

well, looks like I make it one more year, flights booked! Tim promised me a day of pickign CA style! WOO HOO!

Welcome to the group... You're in the right place! Lots of talented, experienced, and knowledgeable folks here, who can answer your questions. First thing you might look at is under the Resources tab. Then Reference and Maintenance . http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/reference/maintenance.html

Use the right size/Type puller. Don't cut it!!!! Get a bigger /stronger /better puller. I use these H-Duty Posi-lok pullers for the tough jobs. This is a 10 ton puller... maybe a bit too big for a Chrysler but not on a 30" block. Maybe go rent a good puller if you don't want to spend $ for another puller. Don't destroy what you have that's still good.

Drove up to the Roscoe Diner for a cup of coffee this morning. I took Rt 17 West up, then came back via old Rt 17, stopped in Livingston Manor to cross the Van Tran covered bridge that was built in 1865. There were snow flurries in Roscoe, but it was nice an toasty in the Plymouth. Just a nice morning to go for a ride

The big reason most platers don't want to do pot metal is so many customers bring or send it in,and have no freaking clue it will be any harder to do than flat steel. Then they want to bitch about the cost once it is done. Who wants to spend all that time creating a quality product,and then have to listen to all that crap from someone ignorant of the process? The platers can just look at stuff like bumpers and give you an accurate price. Nobody can do that with pot metal parts. Especially Mopar pot metal parts,which have to be some of the sorriest castings in the world. Sometimes you get lucky and don't hit major air pockets that will have to be filled,but most of the time you are not going to be that lucky.

LOL. I really wish we could be there. I'd love to show you two the little town of Columbia.

pre 49 car and the Dakota is not that simple but then again not that hard...you will need the time, space and equipment to do this work....to think it will just cut and fit is a mistake...many things go into making this set up work..consider these few items before you plunge....front bumper hanging is a major weld and fabrication for safety sake...steering will entail late model column or major rework of stock unit..engine cradle is too far forward and requires major modification left and right mounts refardless if 6 or 8 donor....your original frame is tapered for this year and thus the later Dak is best suited..however you are 6 lugs on this setup..prepare to brunt that change cost and application...be prepared to make serious changes to you original frame to be able to receive the later clip, watch rotor size (donor year app)..this will dictate the rim diameter you can run. Suggest taking firewall and front floor pan of donor for grafting this is a necessity if you using the donor components for total upgrade. Inner fenders will require total rework if you desire a closed compartment alsong with the rad support frame and the batwings not to mention hood support if you wish to hang AC condenser forward of the forward mounted radiator.....one thing is a plus going this method..the frames when joined properly will continue the original center line, original body mounts can be reused when you measure from the stock frame trammel points forward..and the stance is just about 3/4 lower with the Dak in the front...adds to nice rake..cost of the Dak..very little compared to the Fatman..don not forget that the Fatman base IFS is as you said a good 2500.00 you have to add the Fatman front frame stubs to this and again all the welding as I mentioned with the Dak comes into play..a feature not usually advertised up front. for simplicity...the front suspension of the older Plymouth is still very much capable today...you may want to revisit the R&P, disc and shock relocation of your original frame....you may be miles ahead..not sure of your local wrecking parts prices and availability..but your estimated1000.00 is probably fair but you get all new parts for the brakes this method...you will be able to keep your stock rims and hubcap look also..think hard before you start..no turning back when you cut..... Now if you just got to be different and go Dak...grab it good luck...it is very much doable...quite an enjoyable venture..be honest with you....it is quite involved, not hard, just involved..but the DIY reward is most satisfying...

james I have an original set that I took out of my 47 dodge if they will do you any good. Shipping only but I do live in Alaska.

awesome! anyone else coming with you?

Tim; Don't do it! It is a slippery slope. Besides you could wind up like PP...... Jeff

Those 40's are nice.....but it's a 41 for me...the grill is just stunning.

In the lubrication section of the service manual for that car you will find a chart for all fluids and lubes and points of lubrication. The very fluids as recommended then are still pretty much available today. In the case of the tranny/OD GL1 only and the differential the standard today is a GL5 rating..I recommend the following of the recommendation regardless of product labeling as safe for yellow metal..GL1 is available at Napa nd any OTC parts stores vend GL5

Kev, Wish you were coming, Hank.

This is the thermostat that will work on your external bypass system. Available at NAPA.

you can http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/manual/manual.htm whats ya workin on?

for your recent forum donation!

for his very generous forum donation!

You mean a grill like this?? Man, I love doin' that!

https://www.youtube.com/embed/bFl5pEe-7uo?feature=player_detailpage

Remember that the voltage to the spark plugs is on the order of 20,000 volts. One of my favorite tools is an adjustable gap spark tester. This little $10 tool is available at most motorcycle shops. If your system is working properly you should be able to get it to jump a gap of about a quarter of an inch. You can also make a tester from an old plug with the gap opened up. Either way these simple little tools will give you the answer you need to move forward with confidence. When I first started using these I was proving out a Lucas magneto on an AJS 500. If one of those sketchy beasts will produce a spark good enough to jump a 1/4" then so should the powered up system in your car. Jeff

Well I got the call this afternoon; it's ready to go. The quote had been $800 + parts, the total was just under $1400, so $600 for the parts and tax. When I asked if he knew where the leak was that caused it, he basically listed virtually every place that you could leak from, but said that he thought it was all sealed up now. I'll go pick it up tomorrow, and hopefully see some of the old parts just for morbid curiosity. He said that he drove it around his neighborhood, and it shifted fine and was totally silent. Marty