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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/28/2015 in all areas

  1. Have you ever had one of those days? When what you are working on, which seemed like it was going to be a simple task, has you going crazy?? My first Air Force supervisor, SSgt. Connelly, called it goin' "Nuckin' Futs!" I call it "Doin' circles in the parking lot!" Nothing that you are doing is working, you can't figure out why, and none of ot makes any sense...just like "Doin' circles in the parking lot!" This was my day today. And when I couldn't figure it out I took a deep breath and logged onto this forum and started searching. About a half hour later I discovered the solution to my dilema and am now back on track. All it took was one picture that someone posted a while ago. That one picture "turned on the light", jarring my memory. So a very big Thank You goes out to all who participate in this forum, helping novices like me over yet another hurdle....
    5 points
  2. You are welcome !! We do it because someone did the same for us at some time. It's a payback, or a payforward.
    3 points
  3. Have fun putting the lug bolts in without it...on the side of the road, in the dark, when it's raining, with Indians attacking.
    2 points
  4. In creating this spotters guide for Flathead Plymouth, Dodge, Chrysler, Desoto, Fargo intakes my hope was to show related information, pictures of various intakes, and attach any technical information and perhaps vintage ads for them. I am starting it here in hopes of putting something together with the help of many members and then maybe move it to the technical archives. . Why do it here ? Only because I or someone can edit and compile. #2 Nicson Engineering Nicson Engineering was we believe the very 1st aftermarket maker of dual carb intakes for the Plymouth and Dodge 23 1/2" motors. The 1st generation with several markings including the "Volumetric", and "Plymouth Dodge Cars" as well as "Plymouth dual Dodge" was for the earlier smaller 2 bolt Carter ball and ball carbs. The one pictured below was never mounted on an engine and was the only one I have ever seen. Here is that Nicson intake, now cleaned up, mounted with 1938 Plymouth carbs, nice new stainless linkage all done by George Asche - AoK racing and heading out to be a new piece of jewelry for a 1938 p6 Plymouth ! The 2nd generation intake Nicson made was for the Chrysler, Desoto and Dodge truck 25 1/2" block as well as and intake for the "Super Big Block" engines up to and including the 377 and 413 ci engine. The 3rd generation intake was for the for the Plymouth and Dodge 23 1/2" motors taking the bigger Carter ball and ball carbs. Next the picture of a Tattersfield and a Nicson dual carb Plymouth and Dodge (23 1/2" flathead) Here is the Tattersfield circa 1950 I have also seen a Nicson triple made as a "Chrysler Special" for the 25 1/2" block engines, but never took a picture of it. That was back in the early 70's, well before the camera on every cell phone era and have not seen one since. Courtesy of http://p15-d24.com/user/7710-charleyd/ who scored a copy of the October 1952 Hop Up Magazine, where the article which gives a big thumbs up to the Nicson intake and I will put it up under that intake thread as well as here. Here is the October 1952 Hop Up Magazine on Hopping up the Plymouth with some really positive endorsement of Nicson #2 The Coolest Funky looking intake - Tattersfield Power Equipment This intake came only in small block form for the Plymouth and Dodge (23 1.2" flathead) It came in 2 different generations. The 1st pictured with the Nicson intake and the 2nd generation pictured with carbs on it. Notice the linkage tabs on the 2nd generation intake. Courtesy of : http://p15-d24.com/user/7408-hellyeah/ A later Tattersfield intake / exhaust combo with linkage. Note the intake has linkage tabs like Edmunds did on his later dual intake manifolds. As well a picture of a Tatterfield Aluminum head - all for the Plymouth and Dodge (23 1/2" flathead) & a letter from Tattersfield on their performance equipment. then Courtesy of: http://p15-d24.com/user/5770-61farnham/ The Tattersfield instruction page with linkage illustration and picture of the Tattersfield intake with carb on it Some earlier Tatterfield literature, followed by the later which referenced Mopar in the later 1940s \ Notice the reference to the Electric and Carburetor Engineering Company. This is a picture of the inside of the Electric and Carburetor Engineering Company from a 1951 (courtesy of a P15d24 Member 50Plymouth) . Ive seen it referenced elsewhere as a Calendar shot from 1942 although a couple of items in that picture would date it much later In the display end of the counter is what I believe to be the the 2nd generation Chrysler six cylinder intake (top intake)
    1 point
  5. Well it has been a while since we last checked in with the progress report on the New AoK intake. As does happen some things just throw a curve ball into a project and the water jacket feature was our curve ball. We have a perfectionist as our pattern maker and while it didn't increase in price, he most certainly put in a ton of extra time trying to come up with a solution to the water jacket "perfect solution". The perfect solution really became comprised of two factors. 1) We asked if it was possible and if so how much of a deal would it be to have 1 set of molds, that allowed for the creation of the intake without and then with the water jacket. We were doing that based on a pretty much split down the middle in response from customers on what they would ideally like to have. 2) Was is there any difference in having the water tube integrated on the outside or the inside. If it is on the inside it would look better as things are a little more hidden and we don't have any issue with the it interfering with linkage required for vehicles needing linkage on the outside of the intake such as trucks. So between #1 and #2 we went from being a couple of weeks ahead when we were ready for a 1st cast early in January, to being a month or so behind. Lol.. welcome to the world of trying to make as perfect a part as you can. Now for the good news: The final molding (not just the prototype molding) is now finished and what we hope is the final intake before going to production with be cast this week. It will be shipped to us to be checked over, then machined to make sure it is 100% in line with the specs. Then assuming its two thumbs up we will go into production casting the intake without the water jacket. No, don't panic, we will then insert the add on mold piece and be able to cast the intake with the water jacket. So we are making progress and the there are some great things coming from the process but it is taking time. Expected shipping of intakes to customers... still shooting for April time frames. ****************************************************************************************************************************** Appendix: This is a picture of our AoK triple for the big block. It has a set of AoK headers made from a stock exhaust manifold. Customer wanted white ! These two pictures are the AoK triple on Tim Kingsbury (my) 1949 Plymouth Business coupe. It gives you a good idea what the headers look like mounted on the car. Personally I prefer the look over other headers as it provides more of a period look and provides the same performance results.
    1 point
  6. are you sure that the letter S should be there....???????????
    1 point
  7. I have never seen a 3/4" core plug fit any Mopar flathead... The Dodge and Plymouth use a 1-3/16" core plug up on the head. The DeSoto and Chrysler use a 1-3/8" core plug on the head All the others are 1-5/8" as mentioned. Except the rear cam plug OE is brass and measures 1-3/8" The bell housing rear 1-5/8" core plugs also were brass and doubled up from the factory . The front of engine hidden 1-5/8" core plug behind the engine mount plate was brass as original equipment. Bob
    1 point
  8. Okay just went outside to the shop, cap rotor points look great and new, i installed them within the last 2 years. I started the engine turned off the lights and had a look under hood, no stray current or sparks either. It then dawned on me, listening to the exhaust, a little poof-poof sounds like exhaust blowing as well as drawing. I really believe now it has a burnt or sticking valve or valves. I did the paper test at the tail pipe it failed. I have a choice, rebuild, do a valve job, or live with it for now, or find another engine.
    1 point
  9. Ok..this may be tricky...I get the feeling you are being held hostage and forced by knife or gunpoint to connect to this forum. Is this an attempt to signal to one of us? If you are in duress and need intervention...slip in a underscored entry if yes...help will be sent...
    1 point
  10. Joe, have you driven by this to take the snow off the barn roof? take some 4x4's with you to shore up the roof and when the owners come out and ask what you are doing, explain you are protecting your future truck and that should get the conversation started... if they don't come out leave a note explaining what you have done...... come on Joe do it!
    1 point
  11. The only thing any one ever gets to consume in my '46 more door is a bottle of water.
    1 point
  12. I haven't been able to work on the car lately but the I did manage to mold the passenger side drip rail out of 5/16" round stock and finished up most of the body work the lat time I was in town.
    1 point
  13. If you want something close to original be prepared to pay $450 just for the material or find a good fabric store that sells drapery material and get the next best thing for $50. Here is my (blown) budget P15 for example. Jim M
    1 point
  14. It is an alignment pin that doubles as a rivet. Cut it down to a similar profile as the rivets.....as long as those don't interfere with you new wheels, you should be good to go.
    1 point
  15. Well I am sorry to hear of all your work and efforts only to have them not work out. While I am far from a fan of the t5 transmission conversion I do know those who made it work for them and were happy with the end results. Lol or at least they were not prepared to admit that it wasn't the best idea. We are all often guilty of doing something and then believing it is the only possible answer to a problem or that others are crazy to do anything else. I too can be guilty of that I am sure. As by Grandfather used to say there is a reason they make Chocolate, Vanilla and Strawberry IceCream. If you then pushed and said, so are you saying Chevy's are great car, you might be surprised by his response. It was one that my Dad often gave - "I love Chevy's and I am glad people buy them, because if they didn't I could not have made a great living beating them and fixing them!". I will send you a detailed email to you with a chart of all of the T5 transmissions, covering the gear splits and overdrives available. For the blog, I will say if I already went to all the work you have, so it is really the splits and lack of a decent overdrive ratio, you may wish to consider finding a better suited t5. There are definitely t5's with much better overdrive ratios, and there are some with slightly better gear ratio splits. The t5 was designed for engines with way less torque than a flathead mopar, and in many cases engines with far less horsepower. So it is a compromise. That being said, everything other than the mopar overdrive which was designed for the vehicle, is going to be. With a $1k budget, unless you find a 52-56 Plymouth overdrive in a scrap yard and can get it out with the wiring, kick down switch, relay etc cheap, your going to have a hard time getting into that snack bracket. With all the work you have already completed. Here are some examples: TAG # VEHICLE APPLICATION REV 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th 1352-065 Ford 1984 Mustang/Capri 5.0 V8 2.76 2.95 1.94 1.34 1.00 0.63 1352-035 AMC 1983 Jeep CJ 2.1 L4 Diesel 2.2 2.76 2.95 1.94 1.34 1.00 0.73 That is not a definitive list, that I will send to you. I also want to say I am no expert on these transmissions, so you will need to do some research to see if they can be a direct replacement for the one you pulled out. But for example the Jeep (aka soon to be a Mopar) has a 2.95 1st, and a .73 5th so that may achieve . Your stock transmission has a 1st of 2.57, 2nd of 1.83 3rd of 1.0 and reverse of 3.48 Sorry if I am sounding like the t5 transmission conversion fan here, because I am definitely not that, but when you have already put all the time, effort and money into a conversion the cheapest solution may just be to find a better t5 to suit your application. Now on to your other part of your post and what is really what you were looking for from me; another option. So once upon a time I would have went down the road of a floor shift. The trucks I love and learned to drive in, the car I drive every day, and even the 1st car I purchased were all floor shift models. That means I am predisposed to floor shift. I have a 1948 Plymouth Club Coupe as well as a 1949 Plymouth Business Coupe and if it was 30 years ago I would guarantee I would only be interested in a floor shift. lol but today, my 49 is still a column shift and I could have made it a floor shift. Even with the 1952-56 r10 in it, I have a shifter my Dad made/modified to allow for the R10 to be a floor shift. I just didn't want to loose the "floor real estate" that the floor shift took up. That being said, I know many still want a floor shift and while its not clear if that was in your motivation, my next solution would be floor shift. Also likely not surprising it is not a Chevy or T5 solution. My suggestion would be to use a 1975-85 Mopar (aluminum case) A833 4speed transmission. It has gear splits of 1st: 3.09:1, 2nd: 1.67:1 3rd: 1:1 4th: 0.73:1 (Trucks used a 0.71:1 fourth) The high level of doing the conversion is this. You will need an adapter plate and screws to connect the A833 4 speed to your stock bell housing. You will not need to grind and modify your bell housing. You will need to change your clutch to fine spline although everything else works, even the pilot bushing is the same. On the back of the transmission you will need to change the yoke of the tranny and modify the drive shaft to accommodate the modern yoke. Or you can change the rear end to a more modern rear end which would give you bigger brakes and an easier solution for the parking brake. As I know you will have had to deal with when your did the t5 conversion, when you loose your original Plymouth 3 speed, you loose your brake drum on the back of the transmission for the parking brake. There is the Coles Note version of an A833 4 speed with overdrive conversion. Depending on the model of Plymouth and year, you may need to modify the shifter leaver coming up through the floor. We have already assisted in one project that put the A833 into a 1937 Plymouth. Yes, that car has the X-Frame with the loop and yes he was able to deal with that added challenge. He had to modify the shifter so it bent left (towards the passenger side) and then again forward (toward the fire wall) so it came up the original floor shift position in the 1937. But it fit in perfectly and to quote him - "it shifts like a dream". Keep in mind the A833 4 speed I am referring to is the aluminum cased model that came out with overdrive in 1975 and not the earlier Cast Iron model that is highly sought after by the Mopar Big Block folks. That earlier transmission would give you the floor shift, but is 1.1 in 4th, so you get no overdrive. I will do a blog at some point on a "A833 4speed with overdrive Primer" but for now, if you or anyone else is interested you can always send me a not and we will be happy to help. Tim
    1 point
  16. I will explain at a later date how this works. Doing brakes on a 57 Chrysler Imperial Crown. Can anybody tell me how to make the pictures show larger?
    1 point
  17. This is my 1st attempt on doing a video.
    1 point
  18. Par for the course with most forums......although, sometimes great info. BTW, it's coming together nicely.
    1 point
  19. little update on what ive been doing and why no recent updates ,Ive been working on a intaket for the past couple days cut everything out by hand with cut off wheels and used a little homeowner drill press and a hole saw, I can tell you that I need to invest in some better equipment HAHAHA it took about a hour to a hour and a half to drill each hole in the the 1/2" plate..I still have some more work to do to it. have to drill and tap the two vacuum line ports in the bungs I just welded on and do some metal finishing, waiting for some gaskets to show up in the mail so I can bolt the top plate onto the top of the the exhaust manifold and get everything lined up and then cut a hole in it and weld a heat channel up to the bottom and sides of the intake to keep it heated like the stock design.. still a work in progress but I think its turning out pretty good and so far its cost me under $40
    1 point
  20. LOL! I have a friend I met through the car forums over the internet and lives in Kansas that also said he wished I lived closer to him too ,so he could put me to work on a couple of his projects ! So I take it that "Charlie" is the guy that made the tech thread for the ford explorer disc brake conversion? by removing the steering arms I believe he means you have to take the steering arms off and bolt on the disc brake bracket then rebolt the steering arms back on over the plate , and the reason you have to adjust your steering rod joints back 3/8" on both sides to compensate for the 3/8" plates your adding on both sides, kinda like this photo (I still have to buy longer grade 8 bolts so I haven't got to that part yet) hope this photo helps : ,well today I started getting the plates bolted on and made some 3/8" spacers with the drill press and a hole saw from the left over 3/8" plate I had from cutting out the brackets out of , worked out great I think you can probably just bolt them in but I decided to weld them on then drill the holes through them: I also drilled out the threads in the spindle and pulled new 1/2" by 20 ford explorer wheel studs in , since the rearend has the ford explorer wheel studs in the rear I felt like I should ditch the wheel bolts and make the fronts wheel studs also: I just used the template I printed out to drill the caliper holes and everything bolted together fine until I went to put the wheel on: Since the tech thread Im using the author said he used different wheels I was worried about not being able to use stock wheels, I had asked around on the HAMB to a couple of guys that did this conversion if stock wheels would fit but never got a reply confirming so I knew there may be a possibility they wouldn't work, wish I didn't just use the template to drill the caliper mounting holes in the brackets because I could have pulled the caliper in a little closer to the rotor, but I probably would have had to still grind and reshaped the caliper but maybe not as much: So far ive had to grind alittle, then spray some spray paint on , then put wheel back on and spin it , then pull it off and check the spray painted area for where its hitting , then grind some more, then reapeat the process, ive done this a number of times today so I didn't get the front discs on like I had hoped today still working on drivers side trying to get the wheel to clear its still hitting a bit think im going to have to grind a little on the inside of the wheel where the center is riveted to the outer ring of the wheel so I don't take to much off the caliper, hopefully have a positive update for tomorrow....
    1 point
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