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WHAT???? Give MY car to those money grubbing turds called family? NEVER I SAY!!! If one of them wants it he or she better start kissing my A$$ now and then wait on me hand and foot until deaths door opens for me..... Wait a minute, I was thinking of the movie Grand Torino. I'll probably will it to my grandson. he's a smart little fella at 4 years old. So by the time I kick it he should be in his late 60's early 70's. Did I mention I plan on living to be 125. If you smiled at this post, I just added some time to your life. Remember whoever lives the longest wins the game and laughter is the best medicine. Joe

One night in that thing and you'll be sure to get mange, hanta virus, and rabies.

Put a Milwaukee sawzall on your tool list and use it to cut the trusses at the top plate. Install the lift inside and lift the roof with it. Add to the exterior wall height, problem solved.

VINTAGEPIC: saw this'n on the FB:

Another old Dodge with guns involved

and almost as good as new

Matt - Here is some non-solicited endorsement. Keven just redid my gauges and speedometer - total knockout! Can't wait to get my truck running to see them in action. Bob

Grandson Toby, today's winner of the Most Authentic Trophy, and the Sixth Place Medal. (Someone must have helped him make a block of wood look like a 1947 DeSoto Suburban, vaguely resembling his grandfather's Big Brown Car.)

I'm currently planning on giving the convert to my son-in-law and daughter........since he is a car guy and also knows how to work on them. He did the body, paint and interior on it after the tornado. If for any reason, he can't work on it, or doesn't want it.... they can sell it if they wish.

Well, my wife is co-owner, but a few months ago, my 10 year old grandson asked me if he could have my car when I died. How do you respond to a question like that? Since my wife has little interest in our Plymouth, and has never even driven it, I would be pleased if my grandson became the Plymouth's new owner. I would really like the Plymouth to remain a member of the family. Wayne

Dunno! Probably offer it up here, then auction if no bites. Anybody wanna pre purchase it?

Unless you are dead set on remaining stock I'd have a new driveshaft made. Its difficult to find someone that can replace these ujoints properly.

I make a point of going into the garage and pumping the clutch pedal and brake pedal on mine a couple of times a month.

Well, after a new set of points, new condenser, wiring the coil in the right direction, a couple shots of starter fluid, and a little gas, the old truck fired up and after a couple of hiccups it runs like a sewing machine. transmission shifts through all the gears great. I think now we will start on the breaks.

My unborn son or daughter haha! Currently 26 with a girlfriend but by the time they can drive maybe all cars will be electric

This may be sub par but I can guide a foot long grinder into my mouth

There is no doubt that the new paints are more shinny. The real issue is single stage versus base-clear. I did my '49 Desoto a couple of years back and went with a base-clear even through I wanted single stage. Why? When you shoot a metallic paint in single stage if there are problems you cannot buff it out. If you try you get a leopard spots of metallic. You then have to sand and paint the car again. The labor costs are just too much. If I had a non-metallic color, I would have used a single stage. There is a "flattener" that can be added to the paint. We added some to the paint for shooting the dash so it would look more correct. The only thing is when you use a flattener, if you ever polish it, it stays polished. So, I just wipe the dash with a clean wet cloth. If used on the body, it would be hard over time to not "polish it".

The cylinder on the right is not correct. This is correct: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Mopar-1948-68-Dodge-Truck-Ignition-Lock-Cylinder-Keys-/311266537328?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4878ee6f70&vxp=mtr

Here are some of the old joints used on the 1948-52 Mopar cars and trucks...... Cleveland ect showing a 1 ton joint too..... All of them are hard to find now days..

To bench-bleed your single outlet master cylinder: 1. Remove the master cylinder from the vehicle, and place it in a vise to hold it securely. Make sure to protect the MC from damage from the vise. 2. At the outlet, install a short brake line and fitting as fitted on the vehicle, about 1-2 inches in length. 3. Attach a flexible hose to the short line from the cylinder outlet, using an optional hose clamp. 4. Fit the open end of the flexible hose into the reservoir of the master cylinder, filled with brake fluid, and keep it submerged. You may use a clothes pin or other soft clamp to keep the tube submerged. 5. Slowly but firmly operate the master cylinder using a suitable tool such as a ground-down screwdriver, or drift. 6. Observe the fluid returning to the reservoir from the tube looking for air bubbles. 7. The master cylinder is bled when no air bubbles can be seen returning to the reservoir while operating the cylinder. The master cylinder is defective if it cannot be bled to a no-air-bubble condition on the bench.

Going to start a new blog regarding my B1 project instead of posting to the WIP page on the "About" section. Just a lot faster and easier than editing html web pages! A little history, I purchased the truck, a B1C, in early 1999 from the son of the original buyer. The truck had spent it's entire life working on a farm in the Dunbar, Nebraska area. It even came with a copy of the January, 1949 Certificate of Title! I had the truck shipped out to California and the seller had been honest about the condition so I knew I had some work ahead to get it road worthy. Carb rebuild, brake overhaul, radiator flush, tires and tune up and I was back on the road. About two weeks after putting it back into service I was coming back from a dump run and suddenly had no power to the rear axle. Tow truck home and dropped the pumpkin to get out the piece of broken axle in the third member. Probably from metal fatigue from all those years of hard work on the farm! I drove the truck as is for about six years. It did have some bigger issues I knew I would need to address in the not to distant future. Had a crack in the water jacket but stop leak seemed to keep it under control. Smoked badly and needed an overhaul. And I was having to replace the head gasket about once a year. Around 2005 I acquired a B1D parts truck, no engine but full drive line and running gear. After investing this model a bit more I decided to "upgrade" to a 1 ton, with the optional dual 20" rear wheels and a rebuild 230. This model is listed in the factory brochure as a D-116 Code 75 Like all projects life sometimes gets in the way and it is still not finished. Good news is I have all the parts, either acquired or fabricated. Now I just need to get it finished and back on the road! I be posting updates as I reach a new milestones but for a starter I will post a some pics to get your interest. More to come in the months ahead!

Lou & Gerhard, I hope you guys didn't vote in the poll. The whole purpose of the poll is to see what type of newer cars 80's & up we use as daily drivers. I think Don Coatney ran a poll sometime ago to see how many people used their old Mopar's as daily drivers. To make this poll work, if you use a car older than 1980 PLEASE DO NOT vote, it will defeat the purpose if you do. We already know at least 99% of the people on the board own an older Mopar.

Next to the make of car you will see a round circle. To vote (enter your answer) simply click on that circle. That will give you the vote. You can only pick one answer, so use the car you drive the most yourself.