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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/21/2014 in all areas

  1. To paint, or not to paint, that is the question......whether tis nobler in the mind to suffer the slings and arrows of outrageous patina haters, or to link arms with a sea of decorative and protective coating pushers, to join and please them?
    3 points
  2. My 1950 Dodge B2c, finally got it running a few days ago. Now I am having all kinds of fun with the brakes. One thing at a time I guess.
    3 points
  3. Plymouthy and I had a thorough visit on the status of my truck. The conclusion hands down is that it must be painted. Before the fire the surface was protected by the original paint but that in several major places is GONE. Thus the dog house will have to come off and the surfaces will have to be cleaned and protected from both sides. So it's not a matter of preferences, it's a matter of necessity. and I am in for a lot of work. I have the time, the mechanicals on the truck are solid, and even though it's a lot of work, it's work I've learned to enjoy. I do have a very nice shop which is slowly getting organized so there goes winter. Exterior color has not been determined, Maybe original blue with orange flames on the front. LOL My knees and hips are fine, and the Zucor damaged muscles in my legs are getting stronger. I can now walk a mile and do squats which I could not do four weeks ago. The fire and the consequent clean up took a bit of a toll on this old body, but it like the truck is coming back. Thanks again to all for your support and encouragement. It has been quite an experience which continues.
    2 points
  4. I know some people ask how to set the points gap on their distributor when the dizzy is in the engine. If you have ever tried to do this then you will know that it can be done but you will take some time to get the cam in the correct poition so that the high point on the cam is opening the points. There was a tool made to help make the job easier for the mechanics. so that you did not have to take the dizzy out of the engine block. The tool is called a snap gap. Basically there are several metal rings that slip over the dizzy cam. The rings are made for specific model dizzy;s. They tne have a gaping tool that you use to gap the points. So you take the cap and rotoe out of the dizzy then push thar apporpirate metal sleeve or ring over the cam. You do not need to have the points on the hight point of the cam. The take the gapping tool that has the appropriate setting adn the adapter feeler blade and then gap the points to the appropriate opening based onthe feeler gage blade. The points can be at any point in the run around the cam. Then when you pull off the sleeve that points will be perfectly gapped. This permets you to regap the points with out taking the dizzy out of the engine. I have two of these tools one in my tools box in the car and another in my tool chest in the garage. I use this on my 39 Desoto. Attached a picture of the tool. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com
    2 points
  5. Well, you won't have any trouble finding parts.
    1 point
  6. I was raised MOPAR, my first 3 cars were Mopar but nothin' (bless me Father for I am about to sin) epitomizes the golden age of US autos like a '57 Chevy.
    1 point
  7. For filling my transmission and diff: It holds about a pint of oil, so a couple of shots and the job is done: Lumax Suction gun--amazon has them
    1 point
  8. Don: They weren't MoPar 6's that slipped time due to the nylon teeth breaking loose. One was a Ford 302, and the other a Buick v-8. Just something else I thought he could check as I have seen worn chains on a flatty. Mike
    1 point
  9. Also check that little pigtail wire in your distributor. It's the one that supplies juice to the points, These can break down after awhile or sometimes short out against the the distributor housing causing intermittent stalling. I speak from previous with this situation. Good luck to you. John R
    1 point
  10. Ford small block V8's of old would be subject to this in heartbeat with the nylon/plastic cam gear for 'quiet' operation..they extended this to include the direct drive smaller import V6's they used and just last week I learned that they have a "silent" recall on the newer OHV engines due to this very same faulty design of ole that proved to be inefficient.. those gears would shatter with the least bit of kickback on the crankshaft due to brittleness after a bit of aging.., often not much aging was needed for it to fail..even have replaced under warranty....I have replaced a good number of these myself..I still keep waiting for that certain "light" to come on
    1 point
  11. Here isa a real nice tool to make it eaiser to set the gap for the points. This tool eliminates the taking the dizzy out of the engine and you do not have to have the ppoints setting right on the point on the cam. refer to my posting on the use of a snapgap tool. I have two f these tools. Here is a picture of the tool. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com
    1 point
  12. That is interesting. I have never seen that on a Mopar flathead 6 cylinder engine.
    1 point
  13. This has been discussed in the past. Suggest you contact the various disk conversion vendors and inquire as to there suggestions.
    1 point
  14. Finally got to the BBQ while my wife was away. VHT satin clear header paint reqs. baking 20 min. at 250 degrees then after cooling baking again at 400 degrees,..then at 600. Couldn't quite get to 600 but this is the same as I did with black on the Plymouth exhaust manifolds and it has worked very well. The "satin" is a little more "flat" than I wanted. May try another clear over this to enhance the color. Another feature is that my garage now smells like steak
    1 point
  15. Here is Tim Kingsburys 49 Plymouth Biz Coupe 265 powered with triple carbs, split exhaust and some engine goodies. it sounds great, hope to see a video of it smokin the tires soon..
    1 point
  16. Ever had one of those days where someone you've never met before shows up out of the blue and gives you something that you never though you would ever see? That happened to me today. I live in an old house built in 1926 it is on a piece of property bought by my dad in 1965 and adjacent to our farm which my grandpa settled on 1905. I've often wished to see pictures of what it looked like in the old days but sadly my family was too poor to own a camera back then so there are few pictures of our farm let alone the neighbors (mine now) house. The oldest picture of my house is from the 70's. Today a fellow stopped by with his dad (now in his 80's) who lived in my house from 1934-37 with pictures! I was floored! None of the families that have lived in my house since my dad can remember (born 1939) are still around and to see pictures from 5 years before he was born was a treat for him too. The model t in the picture is the car that the family drove out from Saskatchewan in 1934 in to escape the dust storms of the prairies, but he would like to identify the make of the other car any ideas? it was such an unexpected and awesome day I just had to share
    1 point
  17. This is mine as of this spring....another 3 hours sanding/filler on the fenders today, no hope now of it going back together this fall
    1 point
  18. Just wanted to give a quick THANK YOU to Rich Hartung (Desoto1939) He loaned me his Ammco 1750 (for nothing more than the price to ship it to me) and that did the trick. Happy to report that the brakes are high and tight.
    1 point
  19. Joe, I use an in expensive plastic hand pump (less than $10). It can be found in most parts stores and also Harbor Freight. It is orange with two hoses. Inlet goes in the oil container, the outlet into the transmission. Jim
    1 point
  20. Question: 'Off topic / in topic": Have any of you put a Mopar CAR steering wheel on a Pilot-house post? It's going to take a bit of time. Disassembled one bucket, bead blasted, primed, painted. Just trying to make it all work. I guess the wheel will be black, I tried Maroon and gray but black was the obvious choice. I have a horn ring somewhere. Did find the horn button, springs, et al. Being of shirt tail Mennonite background, in the recent past, color was not encouraged thus I guess my penchant for patina. The gray black is acceptable, now need an Amish hat for the rear window. LOL
    1 point
  21. Looking good, its been a long road back but it Stretching its wings and rising from the ashes. Love the Pedal
    1 point
  22. That is some awesome red patina!
    1 point
  23. Here is my 1960 108E (Australian Build) with a flathead TE 1. 251cu/in motor
    1 point
  24. When all else fails, go into the kitchen, make a sandwich, relax for a bit, then use the twist tie from the bread wrapper to clear the port.
    1 point
  25. A bit of an update. I've been on a mission to located proper engine for the time period and have settled on another flathead 6. I need to prepare the frame back to original before I can bolt it back in. I will run the original, floor shifted trans. Both have been rebuilt with very low miles since. Also, I have acquired the appropriate pedals for the brake, clutch and gas. I will install a dual master cylinder but am removing the discs and installing drums. I know these Mopars pretty well and have always been pleased with the performance of the original braking systems. So, the big thing is that I plan on making a 10 hour trip in October with my other Iron Lord club mates and friends to the Customs By The Sea in Wildwood NJ during the Race Of Gentlemen. This is a great goal for me. I work well under time constraints. I'm anticipating having it on the road and put some good miles on it before the trip. Quick artsy pick of the engine; BloodyKnuckles
    1 point
  26. my coffee consumption is directly related to having been inside office/shop environment for my entire working career as associated with the military...old habits die hard...I can yet lay my head down about anytime for a couple minutes and catch a nap or a good nights sleep...I think I may be immune by now..
    1 point
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