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I just wanted to post a little update on the performance of this new carburetor. Now that it is finally starting to cool off in Florida I've been starting to drive the car more. I wish I had bought this carburetor years ago, in almost 25 years of owning the car it's never run this great. It runs so smooth and idles so good now. It has more power and it just runs cleaner. I used to always have some exhaust odor and that's virtually gone now. I probably rebuilt that old carburetor 10 times over the years and it never ran this good. Oh yeah and no more leaks.

this is why you order parts by your distributor model number........

I bought Alshere59's 1950 Plymouth. He gave me a super deal. Won't be able to start working on it for about two months. The shop I'm renting has asked me to move out by the end of the year. So I decided to build a shop and it will be about two months before it's done. Probably shouldn't be spending this much money but I'm old and I need a place to work on stuff and not worry about the owner changing their mind. The new shop is not going to be big or fancy. But it will be big enough to work on one car at a time and have a lift. I shouldn't be starting another project but I'm too stubborn to stop working on stuff yet. This is a perfect project for me. The mechanicals are good. All I have to do is paint it and then put it back together. I think I can do all that. It may need a few adjustments here and there also. This is a picture of the dirt work and the day the car got here. Had the car transported from Ohio to Texas. That's a story for another time. More news latter.

Your Dodge body is the same as the DeSotos and Chryslers of the same era. The front doors are the same as for the coupes. The rear doors are special for the 7-passenger/limo/Suburban, being 9 inches wider than the standard sedan doors. The rear vent windows are the same.

Dunno if this is any use as we never got 7 passenger or limo mopars after WW2 but if you don't have any window channels at all it maybe worth finding a 46-48 Dodge Parts Manual to at least be able to possibly see what you need or what could fit............ I'd also think that the window channels for the front doors from a standard length 4dr Sedan would be the same as the 7 passenger car, not sure about the rear doors but the channels should be the same basic design & operation and you maybe able to adapt the short rear door pieces to your longer rear doors..........the front window wing vents should be the same in all closed body cars, ie, 2,4 door and 7 passenger or Limo ..........1/4 vents, AFAIK have the glass held in with what I know as "setting tape" and any good glass shop should be able to fit the 1/4 vent glass........andyd

Restoration Specialties out of PA....they pretty knowledgeable and will guide you if you are not up to speed on sizes...all this stuff is made by one company only and sold by many...however, not that many are up to speed on specs and apps.

This one has surround sound too. Oh, and WiFi.

got to say this first off...never seen a two story chicken coop before....now I do know chicken coops with floors, windows even....next thing you know, a widows walk, coop with a cupola....I'll quit now.

Good advise on the lighting. I plan on going with LED. The foundation for the shop and carport is in. They are coming back today to pour the driveway extension. The sidewalk looking thing around the foundation is the new drainage path for the back yard.

To get at the front timing cover you’ll need to remove the front engine mount. You need to support the engine to do that. The rubber on your front mount looks poor. It should be replaced. You’ll need to remove the centre crank bolt. Then a puller to get the pulley off. Look at the sealing surface of the pulley. Clean it up. You may very well want a speedi-sleeve on it. Remove timing cover bolts. Remove timing cover. Kerosene and a brush. De-sludge everything. Clean all mounting surfaces like new. How’s the timing chain play looking? Install a new crank seal in the cover with a press. Get a new gasket in place. I like to copper spray both sides. Lay the cover and gasket in place. Do not tighten it down. Use crank pulley as centering guide. Install pulley. Then tighten down cover bolts. Put thread sealer on cover bolts.

I would suggest you have a speedi-sleeve on hand for the hub, it is most likely badly grooved. A pic of the exploded view you are talking abut might help sort out your questions, but right now I am guessing you are correct. I've never pulled one in the car, just on the engine stand.

I answered this very question about a week ago but I couldn't find that either. Remove radio panel . Behind the instrument cluster there are 3 3/16 head nuts on studs. 2 are on either side of the speedo, the third is half way up on the left hand side. Above and on either side of the speedo are 2 studs which press through rubber grommets on the dashboard itself. Removal of the radio panel gives reasonably good access. Of course, the speedo cable , oil pressure gauge line and temp gauge will need to be either removed from the back of the dash, or in the case of the temp gauge removed from the engine and fed back through the firewall. found the other post page 5 near the top P18 gauge cluster 1949 same as 50 in this regard