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I figured he's go with the standard chrome lady mud flap weights.

Had a great first time myself as well. Came home with a few treasures including the rarer than hens teeth distributor mount for my 1928 Chrysler model 52. Also grabbed this exhaust whistle that I’ll install on her at some point. All in all a 10 out of 10 experience for me. I’ll definitely do it again, but I think a folding micro bike will help alleviate some of the walking.

Last year my sons and I participated in https://fortunatorally.com which is a “scavenger hunt style vintage car rally that gathers teams of automotive enthusiasts for some friendly competition to exercise their vehicles over a 1,000+ mile 3-day tour of New England states (and sometimes NY) during Mid-October each year.” My youngest son am I finished 3rd in our 1964 Cadillac and my 17 year old and his friend finished 5th in their 1978 Mercedes 450SL. This year we are taking the 1951 Plymouth Cranbrook and he is driving a 1967 Cadillac Fleetwood limo. As we finalize our rally preparations and shake down of the 1951 Plymouth any advice as to what extra parts we should take? I still have to finish connecting the aftermarket gauges and tach on the custom panel I built. I removed the radio delete panel, purchased a radio / speaker panel and installed the garages. Where the speak was I installed a https://carpuride.com 9” monitor so I have CarPlay, Navi, etc and put two buttons where the stereo knobs were. (see attached photos) I need to install the chrome trim, replace the cracked passenger side window, replace the gas cap as it isn’t venting correctly, install a relay on the overdrive switch, connect the driving LED light bar to the switched I installed in place of the radio knobs and change the rear shocks. Any advice from you seasoned inline 6 Plymouth owners would be greatly appreciated.

I almost decided not to post this because it is embarrassing. When I got my Plymouth the brake lining for the parking brake was completely gone. So I ordered a new shoe. It came in the mail about a week ago and yesterday I got around to putting it on. Shop manual really did not go into any sort of detail about how to install this. And I didn't really find any instructions or posts online about how to do it either so I was kind of shooting blind. And when you look at this thing it's not super straightforward looking. There's several springs, some cabling, and a number of adjustments. Anyway I get it on there. And it seems like the car is parking well and able to not roll away on a hill which is a good thing. I drive around the block once or twice and it seems like all is well. At this point I'm pretty confident in myself and I decided to go to the grocery store. I get maybe about a mile or so down the road and there is smoke now appearing under the car. Immediately pull over, it's clear that the emergency brake is dragging. Furthermore, when I looked under there there was teeny little flames popping out. That is when I get the fire extinguisher out. It was an older fire extinguisher that had shown full but after being in the car for 2 weeks to my surprise was showing it needed to be recharged. So I sat there looking at these little flames hoping they would go out so that I wouldn't have to see whether or not anything came out of the fire extinguisher. So the flames go out. I let it cool. And then I limped home. Long story short previous person didn't know what they were doing and had installed an additional bolt on the other side of the brake shoe which was not supposed to be there at all. I wasn't aware of that because again the shop manual didn't really show a lot of detail about how this thing was supposed to be installed. This was causing the brake shoe to bind tightly to the drum off of the transmission. Didn't really do any damage. Brake line looked a little bit discolored and that was about it. So anyway I'd get it installed on there correctly and all is well in the world. I guess the moral of the story is make sure that you've got a fire extinguisher and that it is fully charged. I'm going to get a brand new one today. And also, maybe not a bad idea to stay a little bit more local when you're testing out things like I was.

mocked up the corner light concept....I like it.... mudflaps....I DO have some SS cut out for "Job - Rated" badging, but I wonder about longevity of that/replacement if damamaged. Maybe just a straight up MoPaR logo.

I did 500 miles participating in the P 15 Picnic in Sept. up in Cooperstown with my 52 Cranbrook. The only failure was the Chinese bluetooth amplifier that I use to play music through my phone. I did carry spare ignition parts, fuel filters, tools, flashlite, coolant, duct tape, etc.

Are you talking about the heat riser assembly in the manifold? If so it depends on whether you drive in cold weather. It helps warm up the carb. Andy Bernbaums offers a rebuild kit for them if you decide to go that route. To answer your question though it also depends on whether it’s stuck open or closed. If it’s open and allows hot air to the base of the carb you could have problems in warm weather with fuel boiling.

Conn.........apologies if its a rude question but what did you pay for the NOS radiator............I'm amazed that one exists............good score.

Unfortunately I’ve heard of more roadside issues than success stories. But that’s to be expected. Do yourself a favor and carry your old points as a backup.

Later model Mopar rims like on the 2009 Challenger have a deeper offset and that's what I'm running on the back of my 51 Plymouth with extra wide tires. But they're 17 in rims. Some of the Mustang 15" rims have similar offsets and the right bolt pattern but the centering hole is too small. I imagine if you decided you wanted to go that route you could take the flanges off the axles down to a machine shop and have them turn that Center and ring down the fit not sure what you do on the front though I guess you could do the same thing but you have to separate the drums from the flanges