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Pin type if in good condition are much smoother shifting.

I have done a lot of the same repairs that you have here in the thread. You remind me of my Dad he had the same personality and his car was a 48 Plym coupe that he used to street race in the early sixties around South Park area, he ran a flat six with dual carbs, Fenton exhaust, shaved head, cam etc etc.. I'll be keeping track of what your doing as its right up my alley and skill level, thanks so much for sharing.

hopefully they are wool sox with all that snow your going to need them!

you gotta be on the coast! Im in the Okanogan where we have BOB (Big Orange Ball) sunshine!! Dad moved us here in the 70's from south Seattle thank goodness. Love your progress, Im working on a 48 Plymouth 4 DR. that's been sitting for 20 years on the ranch.

I was going to say, that I ordered my kit then removed the pump "in that order" and found that the kit does not fit my pump. So I bought a new pump.

Took the rebuilt clutch out of the Coronet today. The new disc is.025 thicker than the old one. I tried adjusting to get.060 plate departure but no joy. I ended up re-installing the old clutch assembly and adjusting to factory spec and it solved the problem. It goes against my nature to use the old clutch but it has minimal wear. Now back to driving the wheels off again.

I "repaired" my tank with a VISA card...... https://vansauto.com/product/41-48-dodge-plymouth-desoto-chrysler-6-cylinder-gas-tank/

It was a cold day and vaporization was minimal. Confidence comes with understanding. Even if I had of ignited the vapor, the filler neck was open, so it wasn't a pressure vessel, It can't explode. That and my middle name is danger.

Hello, I see that your car had one coil cut from the front springs, I am contemplating lowering doing my 48 4 Door. I was curious if having the springs cut had any negative steering geometry issues such as uneven tire wear etc... thanks in advance

FWIW, I went with Gas Tank Renu for my '52 Cambridge. The tank is cleaned, weak or rusted-out areas repaired, and then coated with a baked-on sealer. The work was done around 1995, and the tank is still good.

Hello Im following your progress on the Plymouth, sorry to hear about your bike wreck. I ride as well and am always looking for the driver that isnt!! My question is I see that you are going to use Moog Aerostar coils for the front? to lower it? I was wondering where you found this info so I could do some research. I have a 48 four door that I am currently working on and want to lower it some. Thanks in advance and get healed up.

I'd be comfortable with everything you said up until "with gas in it!!"

The first thing I would do is check the outer cable for links, next I would pull the inner cable and check for links and if everything looks good I would reinstall the cable by greasing it as it goes in. Next I would lubricate the latch and make sure it is working freely. That should take care of the problem.

Oilite bromze beraring were an invention from Chrylser MoPar division. When they are original produced they are impregnated with oil under pressure. This is one of the reasons why you do not ream any of these bearing such as the pilot bushing bearing in the flywheel. The little grease cap will permit you to drop in a couple of drops of motor oil and this willthen lubricate the oillite bearing. Do NOT drill any holes inthe bearing. Rich Hartung

I wonder if rotating the cable inside the housing while pushing on it would allow it to be worked back out.

If it is a sintered bronze (oilite) bushing, then it doesn't require a hole. But if the pores in the bushing are clogged, or if the ID has become 'smeared', then it will not allow the oil to flow through. If it's just clogged, then there is a process of soaking it is hot oil that should clear it, but otherwise, it requires a replacement. (Because if the ID has become 'polished' or smeared due to lack of oiling, then it is probably too worn to function as intended. I think some here have replaced these with a "permanently lubricated bushing".)

If it is a pin type "PT" will be stamped into the machined flat area by the side of the shift cover. You will need to clean the surface of any grease or corrosion th read the small lettering. Date of manufacture will be there too. Car Pin type syncro's started believe after 1952 or 53.

I have the bottom one on my 52 Coronet. Some gasket shellac on both sides of the gasket and no leaks.

i thnk i have a spare set of cut springs from my 40. dropped nicely and improved handling and response....$50 plus shipping...that way you can keep yur old ones original..you never know. claybill

I cut the coils on my 40 Coupe. 1 coil from the front took it down about 3 inches as far as i can tell. The great thing about cutting the coils on these old cars is that they will ride a little stiffer than stock which makes them a little more responsive. As far as the back is concerned, I'd have some blocks made. The normal lowering blocks are too wide for our leafsprings and will not install properly. I ended up getting two chunks of steel cut to the size i wanted 2"x3" and drilled a hole in them to serve as guides to keep them in place.