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I think you and others have never read the logo for this site. Now you and others on this thread have successfully driven off a new forum member, it's a wonder this forum is still alive with posts like this. Perhaps you, and you know who you are here, should stay on the POC forum? Isn't that the zero tolerance place? If the guy wants to drop a SBC in it, that's his business. What isn't cool is some here just can't accept anything but stockers.... This site is for both!

Mr. Fargo, I certainly respect your opinion on what should or shouldn't be done to an old Plymouth. However, the 'tag line' at the top of the Forum site says: P15 - D24 Forum Mopar Cars and Trucks 30s to 60s Flatheads to V8s Stock to Custom Not arguing with your stance, but if this site is not welcome to customs, perhaps the owners/admins should clarify. Mr. Oldtimelamposhop: FWIW Most of us 'blasphemous' individuals take the hint very quickly and tread lightly in this forum.

Hey List OLS, Your car, your money, your the piper who calls the tune. Dont expect a group dedicated to Flathead Mopars to dance to your music. This is a Mopar site and you come here flexing a 350 sbc transplant, might be some backlash. I realize it aint a Duesenberg, but it ain't a 49 chebby either. Many on here would feel as I do but might not voice it, I did. Go to the HAMB or Chevy Talk or a streetrod site like Hotrodders Bulletin might be a whole lot more info on this type of swap. I realize reading added posts you have your reasons for this. Again your car, your choice whether I agree or not. Enuff said.

Sorry man gonna step out on a limb on this. Or are you here to stir up the Mopar pot, 350 SBC phooey. Car like that should not be bastardized with a chebby 350. Just plain blasphemous. That is a beautiful car and what a shame. Your car your the boss I get that but with a car like that just plain wrong..

Amco tool would be nice, but I did mine with a 12" caliper. I got them very close; after that it was super easy to set the minor adjustments. And just adding to this a little bit. I measured from the OD of the shaft to the opposite side corners of each brake shoe until I was within .005

First trip out in a year.

Here is a work-around I used for setting my brakes without the Amoco tool. You will need a good 12" scale, O.D. spring caliper, 12" Dial caliper or Vernier A magnetic indicator base set-up with ideally a 1" travel indicator and to fabricate a collar with a nut as shown below. I just welded a nut to a collar made from pipe so I could screw the Magnetic base components to it. Below is how I do my brakes and depending on if you have a truck or car you will have some variances so review your manual but here are my basics and your ability to measure accurately will determine your success with this method. A manual gives the detail you need and some info for presets on cam arrows but that type of detail needs to come from the manual. Here are the basics and concept with this tool Measure the drum ID. A good machinist should be able to get within .015 with a scale but the preferred method as we are dealing in thousands of an inch here so to be right on the money use a Vernier or dial caliper, I.D. mic etc. Install the indicator setup on the axle and use washers as need and the axle nut to secure indicator so it will not rotate. You want to rotate the axle only for these adjustments and measuring. The collar is not centered on the axle perfectly so it needs to not move once tightened down and all indicator readings are done by rotating the axle to rotate the collar. The idea is to set the brake shoes concentric and to .012" less than the drum ID. That is .006" less at each shoe for .012" total (for my application). Use the spring calipers to measure diameter of the pads so you don't have to compensate for the axle. Use the indicator to get the shoes concentric. When going from shoe to shoe I use my finger to prevent the indicator from springing. This may take a couple adjustments back and forth as moving one adjustment will have some effect on the other. Once you have the shoes concentric and -.012 less than the ID of the drum all the way around I move the toe of each shoe in toward the axle another .006" using the toe cam (minor adjuster/s) Button things up if you like a little drag on the wheel as I do adjust the toe cam (minor adjuster/s) If you have someone that can do some machining you can make a pin to go in the indicator collar and a pointer (extending perpendicular to the shaft) for the other end of the collar shaft. It makes it easy to rough things in and set the radius (half the drum I.D. minus .006"). Plenty of variations on this approach to make it simpler. Hope this helps some folks as those brake tools are not readily available.

This absolutely works great. Learned this from you Sir. Let the shoes wear in, and periodically adjust minor adjusters. Works great. I have a bootleg tool for setting up shoes. It is no where near as accurate as the real deal. Once the shoes are close and you have even contact heel and toe the shoe lining needs to wear into the drums. Only substitute for a quickie wear in is a brake shoe radius grinder. All this hooey you need the Ammco or Miller tool is just that hooey. You gotta be careful on adjusting the majors and then let em wear in. Or borrow the " tool" from Coatney or Adams if they have it or will lend it. But you dont absolutely need it...

Here yah go Bro..

Loaning tools does not always have a bad ending. Several years ago I loaned a tool to a forum member. He used it and liked it. When he finished using the tool he contacted me and told me he wanted to buy the tool. I told hm I really did not want to sell it but I could use the money as I was out of work and looking for gainful employment. A few days later he sent me an airline ticket. I was sitting in his office and he hired me for the best job I ever had. I have had many good experiences sharing and trading parts with forum members and one not so good. A forum member wanted a part that I had. So I refreshed the part and it was ready to drop in and run. In return I was supposed to get another part that I was told was rebuilt and ready to drop in and run. What I got was a bag full of incomplete pieces. After badgering this person for a very long time he finally sent me money to replace the part. But I don't soon forget and I continue to badger this forum member.

Whoever runs this site, yes please remove the post. It’s sad that fellow car guys of any type would treat my post as you all have. in the end, it will be another classic car on the road again and enjoyed. And 55 Fargo, my go fund me comment was a joke to all the foolish comments. I don’t need one to anything I’d like with the car. and Don Coatney, I’m still waiting on that offer. Can’t say it will tempt me. Depends on if your true in the interest or blowing smoke. Thanks anyway guys

Your car, your money, do whatever you like.. But as others have said your on the p15d24 site, not the resto-mod or how to put a 350 chevy in your mopar. Your just in the wrong forum. Ditto for selling parts. As also mentioned go over to Hamb as there are tons who have discused putting a sbc or v8 into this that or something else. Here is the link. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/ As for Don C post with lamps etc.. Dear moderator, please lock this thread before it gets silly.

Floor panels / seat detail. This shot shows the pieces I used (1) to cover the hole I cut to work on the shifter mechanism, (2) the master cylinder reservoir, and (3) the flat iron seat base. (1) that hole will not be required on the next shifter installation and a boot and mount added, (2) I understand I can get a remote reservoir kit to replace this one, for which I looking, (3) and that flat iron will be welded under the panel. Once welded together all metal screws and pop rivets will be removed and holes welded shut. That bar is for the front and rear seat bolts.

Hey appreciate the "Newer Site Guidelines", however it does not mention a SMALL BLOCK 350 CHEBBY. Not to mince words...lol

Hi all i do appreciate all the views and comments. Yes, that is me (well an older picture) I collect lighting and antiques. and that’s why I do have an appreciation for original. As mentioned my plan was to keep it original. That changed. Understand I can sell the monte engine, but not happening I kept due to from my first car. I see the post on original cars and reliable. Yes, I get that. I’ve got an original 48 Pontiac with flat 6 and 58,000 miles. Runs like a top. I’m prob listing it this year for sale. Not sure. But I’ve now got an 8 year old and a One year old. I enjoy driving old cars and feel more safe with at least One car having a newer drive train with them in it. Keeping in mind of other drivers these days too The comment anything’s for sale. Well tempt me then? Maybe I would sell. Keep in mind, I don’t need the money. But if price is right and someone wants to Truly restore it. Then perhaps that’s a good home for it. you can email me thru my website

I ground off the raised area on the shaft that the steering wheel goes on. Get the wheels straight as you can with the car and then adjust so they are the same with perhaps a smidge toe in and then you can move the steering wheel in the correct position after you go down the road.

Read this: http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/brakes.html/

For such a car not being rare or expensive, so many people seem very concerned of my way of now getting it on the road to enjoy it. You all act as if I’m chopping up a Duesenberg or something. And Mr.Adams my father and I went to buy that car because I liked it. He has his own bodystyles he likes.

Here is a novel Idea, advertise and sell the drop in ready 350 and you now have created your own go-fund me account. Build this as a tribute to your father....he was looking to get one without a SBC......again these parts are not at all rare of expensive.

That seems a bit over complicated. If you’re worried about return flow causing aeration why not just run the return back into the suction line.

Back on the road today and working on tuning. Even after another full turn on the lifters, they are still noisy. I guess we will see if they will break in a bit and quiet down. Noisy lifters and all... a guy in a vette was sure surprised from the short little drag this afternoon! Also need to work on the gauge voltage reducers tomorrow. Getting around 10v with the Runtz and am going to try a buck convertor next.

Why not drive it till the shoes match wear into the drums 100% ? That's what I always did.. doing a quick minor adjust along the way? Shops back in the day told customers to bring the car back for free brake adjusts....i learned that from brake shops here in Seattle back in the late 60's when i did my 51 Plymouth and had a hard time getting a high firm pedal. It worked....although you need soft organic linings for these Lockheed brakes for best operation... not the hard dark linings.

THANKS A MILLION--for the information---you guys are great--got the problem fixed--bleeding the lines a second time plus a minor shoe & pad adjustment solved my problem---the entire job was not easy--but, I learned a lot from doing it---THANKS AGAIN ? BOB WATSON

I should have read Ground off the raised section on the steering shaft. Not the teeth on the steering wheel.

Car heater. Several years ago I had a very nice delux heater which did not fit behind the dash of my truck, so I traded it fit the small 10" square heater to a friend who. Wanted the delux in his suburban, and I used the small one. well, now I've been looking for a heater for my Suburban. I found another Square one for $28 and made contact. In the discussion he asked what I was going to use it in. When I told him, "My '53 Suburban," he then said, "In that case, the heater is free to you! Interesting hobby.

Patience, Grasshopper. Nothing wrong with your post or problem presentation. Like me, many folks here won't chime in if they don't have a good answer, or at least an educated guess. I have to go out to the shop to consult my manual to see if something was missed - which I'm hesitant to do right now since we had a good old fashioned northern Maine spring snow storm overnight that dumped 8 inches of snow that I haven't plowed, yet. I'm intrigued for an answer myself. Your string alignment is a good start, that's how I had to do our D24 several years ago, since none of the shops in western NY would do it. Only good tool I had for the job was a pair of turntables (the tires still have to move freely if the car's weight is on them - perhaps something to consider with your issue?) I've found a shop here in northern Maine that will do it, but they would have to use the string/measure method, too, no one up here has an alignment rack these old cars will fit on.

Photos of my toys 55,56,57 doing a quick update to my 56 dully so I can tare into my 55 and do it correctly. The photo of the 57 is a camera mess up but it looks cool.

Hello I’m looking for any guidance i bought a 49 Ply Conv about 8 years ago and haven’t had time till now to get it on the road. im missing starter, flywheel torque, etc so have elected to install a 350 engine from my first car a 72 monte that’s been fully rebuilt just sitting on the stand. And turbo auto trans. my goal is simple swap to Enjoy car not a restoration or full modification hot rod. Just simple and safe to drive me and the kids around. I bought the offset mounts from Butchs Cool Stuff and the Master Cylinder that should be bolt in my cousin is very good at car work and going to help me with this all but never done it in a car like this. Anyone have experience and can give tips on doing this swap??? 1. Radiator - keep original? Add cooler? Is there an aluminum drop in? Modifications? 2. Engine to fit - looks like the heater duct pass sides needs removed? Battery drivers side needs relocated? Any other 3. Rear end - should I keep original? Pros/cons? I do have a 55 chevy rear that I could put in? Who is recommendation for driveshaft 4. Brakes - keep front original or disk? 5. Tips on the engine and transmission swap install 6. Tips on anything else! next will be floors and rockers in the car. thank you in advance!

Gidday from Oz..........o/k so you already have the SBC so thats whats going in it......anyway I would strongly suggest updating the front brakes to discs, as for the rear end as you are swapping out the stock drivetrain then your parking brake on the driveshaft is gone too and its a good idea to have one so I'd be swapping in ideally either a Frod 9" or Mopar 8 & 3/4"...both are available and are lift out pumpkin style which are much simpler to service........as for a radiator the original IF in good condition will work tho there are various aftermarket ones available.........as for the battery I have relocated mine to the trunk, see pic....its that box built into the side, also I have a battery isolator switch on the console, which is also a good anti theft device............so I'd suggest, do the swap, update the brakes, check that the front & rear suspension & steering is o/k and rebuild where necessary.........mopars up to 1954 all have essentially the same style of front suspension and so long as its in good condition will easily handle an engine/trans rear end swap and will perform well............I've had a 318 Poly in my car since 1973 and its fine...............I'd strongly suggest getting a shop manual for the car as it will assist in keeping the rest of the car in good condition.........welcome aboard............Andy Douglas