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I’m admitting, I don’t have the best looking rides or the most popular. I go to the car shows to BS with others and maybe get a dash plaque ….. I don’t want awards or anything…. I am just there to chill and represent the “B” series here locally. With that said, I did spend the last few weeks cleaning up the B4D, wet sanded the rust, took off the running boards and cleaned them up etc. mainly because people keep telling me at the shows I should, so I did. Went to a car show Sunday in a nearby town of 2100 people at the airport. I was ½ hr early, folks that were there were wiping down their cars and preparing for the day. I pulled down the landing strip and there was a guy directing cars to park on the grass. As I pulled near him he ignored me and parked three other cars that were behind me. Confused I pulled over and waited off to the side. Did he not see me? Did he have a preference who parks where? is this for cars only? HMMMM. I waited for a few moments then I got out, asked him “is there was more parking” he looked over at my truck and replied, “are you going to enter THAT?” I said “I don’t know, are there dash plaques?” he said no, “just trophies” I told him to have a nice day and went home and took Julie out to breakfast. Yesterday I cleaned up “Rob” thinking next year I should take him to this event….. the exhaust points at the ground! LOL

So today I got my first project car a 1947 Plymouth p-15 sedan if that’s right I’m 16 and this is all new

Hello Everyone, I recently pulled my grandpa's old Plymouth out of the barn and have been giving it the attention it deserves. He bought it "restored" in 1999-2001 ( he can't remember exactly what year haha). The paint and interior look phenomenal but the engine and drivetrain are original and untouched. It runs and drives but after about 30-45 mins of normal driving it stalls abruptly and just won't stay running. I let it sit for 10 mins and then it fires right up and can make it home. My best guess is that it is vapor locking but I don't know too much about these cars, hence why I joined this forum. What are some suggestions? I have read about heatshields, risers, and heatwrap. What works the best? One more question should I install a fuel filter before the mechanical fuel pump or before the carb? I We don't get the best gas around these parts so I want to make sure im not sucking water and dirt into the carb/engine. Thanks in advance and here's some picture of the car.

That spring on the right looks to have a bigger wire and more coils. Also, the coils are so close together it looks like it wouldn’t take much compression before it coil binds. And the left one is certainly too short. Could you put a washer, or 2, between the original spring and the plug and try it that way? That’ll increase the spring tension for you and should increase the pressure setting.

Even if there are not dash placques and only trophies you still should enter your truck. It is a working and running example of what these trucks were ment to do and be used and driven. The AACA has a class called HPOF Historical Preservation of Original Features. This class is for the owner that wants to show an original car or truck or motorcycle that has not been restored. The importance if that for someone that wants to restore, ground up or partial resto, can see how the original wiring harness door panels etc were attached to the truck or car. So your car or truck is very important to show at an event. You are proud of your truck and DO NOT and I say DO NOT let anyone ever put down you or your truck becasue it has not been resotred. If they make a fuss then ask them for the money to restore the vehicle and also ask them how many fully restored vehicles that they own? We also started out with a working car/truck and then took the time to do what we the owner wants to do. So stand up to these people and also ask them where is their original car or truck. This is a hobby and if this person or car club wants to be that snobbish then you need to inform the car show contact person on how you were greeted by one of their members. This is not the way to get members and if you tell other people it will push car owners away from the show and the club. We have a car show that has been running for 40+ years call Macungie in Pa. It has approx 1300 vehicles on sat and Sunday. This is just a show not a judged event. You get 100 and AACA senior winner cars, originals, partially restored, etc driveable cars and trailer queens. BUT no-one cares becasue it is a car show not a contest to see who can up another persons car. We all look at each others cars and that is the point to see different makes and models and to see how they have survided that is the important part not who has the most money invested inthe car. So enjoy your trucks and show them with pride and they are great examples of original trucks. Bad representation on the clubs part. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

There will always be “snobby” car shows, and then there are the ones where everyone and everything is welcome. Run what you brung is always my motto, and I appreciate an old original truck as much or more then another cookie cutter camaro or mustang....you likely made the right choice, if they don’t want you, you don’t need them..people will get tired of only seeing the same vehicles at the show and they will disappear if they don’t change.

At some point and time you are going to stall out or get frustrated with the part of the car you are working on......say the fuel system. Resist the urge to move on and deconstruct another part of the car, if you go down that path you will have a pile of parts that more than likely will never go back together again. Pick a task and finish it, then move on to the next one. Lots of project cars out there that will never be finished or worse get scrapped. Not every car needs to be a frame off restoration. Good luck with your plymouth!

The other day I saw this old 1953 Dodge PU parked behind a local Deli up near Nazareth PA. I stopped inthe store and spoke to the wife about the truck to see if it was for sale and said it was her husbands and that it was not for sale. I went past the same place on Friday and the truck has now been moved out to the edge of the road and I get the feeling that it might be up for sale but there is no for sale on the truck. Seeing that it was moved to the edge of the road makes me feel that they might be interested in selling the truck. Do not know anthing elase about the truck, took some pictures. i could get the phone number the next time i pass the deli. The store is located north of Allentown Pa. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com cell 484-431-8157

HI folks, I do love the old Mopars. I own a '53 Chrysler and cherish it. My wife keeps hinting at me that she likes the old pick ups. That's a big opportunity in my opinion, to get another old Mopar! I asked her to pick out what she likes, based on internet photos. I told her to search old Dodge truck, or Fargo truck. I see a pattern of red truck photos coming back to me with headlight pods on the big round fenders. Side step rails and pop-out windows. Yes!!! She also likes the patina look, but not required. If I were ready with more space I'd be all over it right now to find one to purchase. I like stock. I like the flat heads and I am pretty comfortable working on them. I know little about Mopar truck offerings, but have been doing research in an effort to be educated when the time is right. I see that there was a relatively short run of Plymouth trucks. I assume quite rare these days. Meaning $$$$? Also parts like chrome and trim especially, may be hard to find? I have a few questions: I like the look of the 1939 to 1947 era Dodge 1/2T truck. What series is that? WC? Is that one series across that span? Looking at internet photos it appears so. What exactly does the Pilot House series mean? Is this just the 5 window cabs? Was this is special order cab? What years? No hurry something like this would certainly do just fine. Appreciate the info. Thanks, Keith

Since I've been driving the coupe I've had weak oil pressure readings. Really weak. I even changed the oil to straight 30wt as that's all that I could find here. I bought a new oil pressure relieve valve spring from Andy B and just installed it. It's now too high. Will have to change oil again. When warm I'm getting 30lbs idle at 450-500 rpms and when driving anything over 35 mph it's at 70lbs. The photo shows the spring that I put in on the right, the one that I took out in the middle and the short one is an extra that Andy sent since he said that it could take either. the original that I took out is shorter and looks to have been streched. Still didn't do the job properly.

Forgot the rubber inlet hose, they can look fine on the outside but be rotten on the inside. They can be sucked closed by the fuel pimp.

If the gas tank sat empty for 20 years you are going to find it is full of rust,and chances are you are going to have to replace it.

I think the first thing I would do would be to take the gas tank off and clean it,and visually inspect it for rust inside. Blow out the gas lines with compressed air after unhooking it at the fuel pump,and install a new ETHANOL rated fuel filger before the pump You MIGHT be running a mixute of stale gas from when it was parked,and new gas that you have added. If that doesn't solve the problem,look at the coil.

Before you go out buying coils and new gas tanks, determine whether you are losing spark or fuel when it dies. Take it out for a drive and as soon as it quits, check for spark with a spark testing device or just pull a plug wire and hold it near the plug to see if there's spark while your assistant cranks the engine over. If there's spark, then check for fuel. Release the fuel line at the carb and see if you are getting gas to the carb while faithful assistant cranks it over. Of course, be safe and have a container handy for the gas to go into so as not to create a fire hazard. Once you figure out whether its fire or fuel, you're halfway there. If it's no spark, it's likely a failing condenser.

You're always welcome in Clements brother!....I mean, we let Mark in fur pete's sake. 48D

check to see if you are stalling due to overheating of the ignition coil....very common occurrence

Gotta get on the soap box. Went to one car show w my 1 ton got parked in the back in the weeds-haven't been back since. I go to a fair amount of cruises, and am always accepted. Don't do car shows anymore. I don't care about trophies or awards-that's not why I'm in this. Truck shows are a whole lot more inviting. These things worked for a living and bear battle scars. Some are restored to nicer than new-mine will never be. I don't look as good as I did 40 yrs ago either. It's all about fun, camaraderie, and shooting the breeze. They can take the trophies and stick 'em. I've been to shows where there were more trophies than vehicles, and everyone got one (hmmm why does that seem familiar today)? Another pet peeve is charging the exhibitors upwards of $30 for the exhibitors, and spectators get in free???? How about no trophies, reasonable registration fees, and charging the folks that are coming to enjoy the show? Off soapbox now.

So this all started because it wouldn’t turn over with the starter. Thought the teeth went on the flywheel (had damage to them). Starter was rebuilt about 2 months before so didn’t think that was the issue. Pulled the motor and trans out. Replaced the flywheel. Put back in same problem it was the starter. Drive unit failed. So because of this and seeing the front clip gone got my mind thinking. Well now the head is off to mill down for more compression, new oil pump installed and I been working on a triple carb with dual header exhaust. Side note anyone in canada Canada looking for a stock intake and exhaust, a modded intake for 3 carbs, a 25” head for US motors? (bought a head to mill down, learned I had a Canadian block the hard way)

Kinda wonder where the 15 bucks goes, most clubs host a show to raise money for club expenses,some will tell you half the entry fee goes to a charity they might align with, some say it defrays the cost of the venue. Most around here are eight to 12 bucks. The Mopar group charges ten but it supports the local trauma burn center. The flyer should tell you what's going on.

Jeebus what kind of malarkey is that?? Cruise-in usually means anybody is welcome, even rat rods...definitely advise those dunderheads what you showed up in, how you were treated, and how ya have quite a few ppl spreading word of mouth about this snub on the internets...this kind of bull reminds me of Flounder & Pinto's attempt to fit in...

Well the flyer says cruise in, far as I am concerned that should be open to any thing that shows up. I would think that with that kind of attitude, the Over the Hill Gang will be obsolete, toasted by their pretension in the near future.

And you experienced the new philosophy at car shows. Not all, of course, but a lot of them. And it one of the big reasons that these shows participation is getting less and less. If they are too snobby to take your $15 then you made the correct choice. You were a lot nicer than I would have been and my parting suggestion would have been way more explicit than yours.

On the side of the distributor there will be a metal tag . it might be under that silver paint . I can look up most part numbers to fit Auto -Lite distributors 1938 - 1951 .

Thats what happens when chevy and ford owners buy and sell mopars........they think every car is barrett jackson and mopar guys are tighter than a pine knot.....lol.

Quick update for those still following this build ... I know it's been a while. Motor is back in the car and all oil leaks have been addressed ... crank had odd hole in flange, some fittings loose, oil filter can was leaking ... all set now. Current set back is what I believe is timing. I reset the timing to #1 TDC prior to trying to start ... got some detonation and figured I was 180 out, adjusted for that ... same thing. So I decided to check the valve movement via the springs with the front cover open ... my intake valve is not moving on #1, seems to be stuck for some reason ... Next steps ... quick compression and leak down test then pull the heads off and see what that shows me ... was rebuilt a while ago and has been sitting for almost 2 years now so could be some stuck valves.

When you disassemble the carburetor do so in a cake pan lined with refrigerator magnets. That way the small parts have less chance of falling into the black hole under the work bench.

We have hotel room for the 27th & 28th, plans are to be there

We are going and hope to be following a black 46 Plymouth Business Coupe.

I’ll be there.

Mark D, good to hear. Pulled the rear end out of my 47 this weekend, need to repair or replace the center section, not sure whats going on. Major vibration. See you soon Mark

It's been some time since I last posted progress on the coupe truck. Not much has changed since then and we are still nearing panel work completion. My bank account has been well and truly drained, and I am fast nearing the point where I have just about had enough. I am told now that there is just some minor messing around required to get the tailgate fitted, and then they are ready to resume blocking and sanding. I may bring the truck home for a few months for a bit of a break yet. I am happy with the work to date, but the amount of hours and dollars that have gone into this project are absolutely ridiculous. We live and learn hey! Here's a few pics of where we're at for now..

Time sure passes by quick these days. Thanks for the reminder Tim. I have been away with charity work, and working plenty of overtime at work while I have been back home!... but things have been happening on my old 'Pop truck'. I had all of the LUCAS electrics refurbished by our local Auto Electrician and now have them all back together, but I am yet to have them painted. My smaller side projects on the coupe truck have seen me playing around with transmission speedo adapters (to cater from 4.1 to 3.54 diff swap), dual horns, handbrake cable, gas tanks, casting of Desoto and Fargo hood emblems, external door locks, horn ring, and steering wheel. The panel work on the truck has been slow (mostly my blame as I have been directing funds toward our investment properties of late), but our coupe truck is nearing completion. I thought the truck was looking good a couple of weeks back with both doors and hood pieces fitted, but we have had a minor setback with one of the doors since then so the truck looks less complete at present! The process now involves working clockwise around the front of the truck from the dash area to perfect gaps and undertake minor adjustments. The external door lock will soon be installed on the opposite side door with the use of a USA door latch mechanism (thanks to Mark aka ggdad1951). I was hoping to have the truck in final paint at the end of January 2018, but this may not happen until April/May 2018 now as I want the truck to sit in primer for a couple of months prior to paint. I should also have the running boards back all repaired and looking new by this Christmas. I have been looking at all of the screw/bolt holes in the firewall over the past few days as it seems that quite a few holes have been added during the many years that the truck spent out west as a pig shooting truck. I didn't realize that there were so many holes to identify in the firewall! It has been a long and costly project... but it appears that the end is finally in sight!

Hello Folks still following this ... motor was installed Sunday, just getting around to uploading pics to this thread. Couple hiccups but nothing major. this motor has the oil pan sump forward ... so had to remove a steering arm temporarily until I put on the original pan ... need to clean up and paint to match. Hoping the pickup doesn't need to move, but this is doable if needed. She went in pretty easy and looking good. I've got the old oil pump that I knocked the drive gear off of to prime her ... need to work out accelerator linkage, recheck torques, fittings and the static timing and get ready to fire it up. stay tuned.

@Bryan Here is a photo of the right angle pump with Langdons Headers.

Another bite out of the elephant if you will. Here's where I ended last night .... springs and a arms back on and installed the new caliper mounts, hubs and loose fit the steering. I think I'm going to clear coat the hubs to help keep them beautiful ... this weekend I plan to mount the shock mounts to the frame and set the motor in to start getting her ready to breath life.

Young Ed is correct. You need something like this. And you need to have the axle nut loosely on the shaft to so that the drum won't fly off and to keep the puller from damaging the end of the axle. See: http://www.ply33.com/Repair/axle_seal/