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It also doubles as an explosion whistle port.....

I'm not sure there is a correct way to do it. I start on passenger side and tighten the bolt until a heavy piece of paper will just slide between the drum and the lining right under the bolt. Then I'll tighten up the "T" bolt until the lower half of the drum rubs on lining. Then I'll tighten the upper half limiter until the paper just slides between the top half of the lining and the drum. Then I'll go back to the "T" bolt and tighten till the paper just slides between the lower half of the drum and lining. I'll paper check it everywhere and make little adjustments as needed then put the safety wire back on the passenger side bolt.

As all of you know I collect the old Miller factory tools. A couple of weeks ago I received an email from Travis Hall and he informed me that he had several old miller tools that he would like to donate to my collection. These tools are to be used by the forum members that might need them to help with their cars or trucks. I would like to personally thank Travis for the donation and he has saved these tools from being put in the trash where no one would ever get to see or use them. Travis is a members of the P15D25 forum. Here is a list of the following millers Tools: C-745 rear axle outer seal tool for the 41 Mopar cars and up C3640 c3821 Driver and thimble worm shaft seal C3782 driver power steering pump shaft seal c3284 used on powerflite trans c355-7 part of the engine front end puller equpiment set Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Lets not bring that up! Next thing you know, somebody will have a hurt feeling and this will become a locked topic!

I hope I don't have this issue on my 3 speed, but going into it I knew it would be a gamble for that same reason. By the looks and dimensions they gave me it should fit. If it doesn't fit I plan on remote mounting it to the frame using a 7/8" transmission end on both sides of a short "jumper" cable. It won't be "correct" but I'd rather have an accurate speedometer.

I eventually sold the red one in this post on ebay. It went to a guy down in Florida. I think he uses it as a store front attraction. This truck was part of a Virginia estate. Soon after I bought a property in Southern Oregon....and what do I find on the property? Yep, another one! However, this one is not in as good as shape. It is a 5 window. It has a lot of the parts on the bed. Unlike the Virginia truck, this truck is rust free and the paint may be original I could sell it, but I would rather give it to someone that really wants it and is willing to put in the work to bring it back If you are interested, contact me.

Rhode Island Wire sells high quality cloth covered wire harnesses. I have not personally purchased anything from them, but many forum members have. A search of the forums for "wire harness" should turn up a lot of info.

I tell my dear wife, Libby that I have been playing with cars before I started playing with girls.............she thinks I'm joking............lol..........oops........WACK!.......sorry dear, yes dear, 3 bags?....yes dear will go & fill them right now..WACK!.........am going now...........andyd

This is an old farm truck I pulled out of a fence row in Colorado. An afternoon with a hose, soap, and some Mother's cleaner wax got me here.

What's wrong with the white lettering on the outside...that's my favourite apart from wide whites....I think the all black looks boring especially on stock rims

Looking again at the first (OP) post, this is a really nice looking truck. the paint is in good shape, as least from the distance the photo was taken. Give 'er some love with cleaner wax. If you want the extra step, polishing (not rubbing) compound first. That's it. If this were my truck, I'd also paint the wheels, front bumper, and running boards to make it 'pop' just that extra bit, and turn the RWL tires around so you have blackwalls on the outside. Boom.

Sometimes the old dog just Does not want to learn new tricks! DJ

Let's add transmission swaps to this topic and see where it goes ... ! I have a daily driver that has a "fair" paint job that is over 30 years old. You could interpret it as a light form of patina, I guess. There's small rust spots here and there, and I've painted panels with rattle cans and had other panels painted in a shop when it was necessary. The truck was completely oxidized when i got it. I use just Meguire's cleaner wax about once a year and that's it. It removes oxidation and waxes at the same time. Perfect for a driver. It makes the truck look a lot better than when it's oxidized, that's for sure. I had primer spots for a while to cover some of the rust on the hood but couldn't stand it, so had the hood painted. The truck looks ok from 50 feet, there is no primer, and no huge rust spots. All just two colors of its two-tone paint job. one day this truck will be painted, to make it right, and preserve it properly, so it can start the clock on another 50 years of weathering.

Don't kid yourself. They are all that way. Some are just better at hiding it so you can't get a running start.

Looks as if she can multitask. Also looks as if I wouldn't want to be on her caca list.

Is this the gal who is supposed to be getting your truck ?

Tune in the same time next week...

this is appropriate wear to many car shows....just in case you come across a patina car and need to pa-puk-a

Another thread I need not look at. Sorry

The operative word there is 'paint'.

I rewired our ’46 Plymouth Special DeLuxe club coupe using Ron Francis Wiring’s “Git It Runnin’” harness. It’s been in the car for a few years, and I’ve had absolutely no problems. The car is 6v, but was changed, (deliberately, or accidently—who knows) to negative ground, but since it worked just fine when we got it, I left it that way. Ron Francis’ products are top-notch, and their technical support is also top-notch. The car wasn’t a concours restoration when we got it, and it isn’t now, either. It’s a driver, and I’m more interested in dependability, and safety, than I am in originality, outwardly it appears original, and that’s what we’re after. Just a tho’t . . .

Jarv.......if you are using the stock width 15" rims then I'd be putting 195/75 size tyres at the most, but that's just my thoughts.......check with a couple of tyre companies like Coker and similar ones & see what they recommend.........might be worth measuring your rims to be certain of what you have..........if you want to run the stock hubcaps you might find that early 50's mopars may use similar style hubcap attachment setup but a slightly wider rim to allow wider tyres............andyd

I used RIW for my 47 coupe harness. Great quality and great diagrams. Not cheap though.

The split bumper came with one of the 1/2 dozen 1940 Dodges I bought over a period of about 3-4 yrs back when I was doing up the Dodge, the twin bumper car was a basketcase apart from someone doing a recessed number plate in the beaver panel and splitting the bars, the rest of the car was only good for parts so I got the twin bumper replated and have had the twin exhausts coming out there...I also had a tow bar on the car till fairly recently so that worked in well..........., only thing is the widened rear guards should have had the bumper mounts extended so the bars covered the outer edge of the fenders but seeing that really only me has ever noticed this I haven't really worried...the same applies to the front edge of the fender as you can see it extended past the rear edge of the running board, again as there are so few people who know anything about 1940 Mopars here in Oz I haven't really worried about that also.......lol.........regards, andyd.

Actually it was my Dads truck but the original owner is the guys name on the door. Which was my Dads uncle. Dad sat in the middle between his uncle and his Dad when they brought it home when it was new. No pictures of it back then. Would have loved to see it back then through But I will get it looking clean again. See what the green actually looks like.

When I had my 41 Plymouth Coupe I used Wheel Vintique Chrome Smoothies 15x6 and 15x7 with 195/70 and 235/70 tyres and did not have any issue with front or back fender or inner wheel well clearances even with the car lowered 2" all round.........I'd think that anything over 215 on the front would be a little too wide, but that's just me, the 195 were great, these were Coker Classic radials and the rims were the standard offset that the Chrome Smoothies came with.....the difference to the old crossplies was amazing, I had forgotten what a PITA crossplies are..........lol........everyone should be made to drive with them once just to realize what a difference and improvement radials are......my Oz 2 cents worth........lol...........andyd

"I hate patina. . . . They do not have to be shiny new paint and rechromed to look good, but should be clean and preserved." You contradicted yourself. I agree with the last phrase. My post fire truck is as well preserved with a quality coat of sans color pigment paint as with paint with pigment. I cleaned the surface same for paint, treated it with a rust inhibitor, primered it, then put three coats of satin clear on it. This winter I will again remove the doghouse, disassemble it and repeat the above so that all hidden edges will be cleaned and treated. When I reassemble it I will place all proper materials between the two surfaces. It will then last as long as any vehicle shown in "Classic Trucks" but I will have PRESERVED its HISTORY. I will receive this bonus, I will meet many more people and talk vehicle restoration with more people than anyone with a perfectly painted vehicle, AND kids can touch it all they want to. That is my explanation of a patina finish.

We are job security for the big pharma companies. Feeling OK, been bouncing around between doctors for followups. Only lasting effects are visual. Floaters and after images at the edge of vision, and some dizziness from the new blood pressure med which has been doubled since first prescribed. Since dizziness was the major symptom of the situation, it is worry some when it starts. But bp is 130/83 down from 142/90 couple weeks ago. No thinners yet, but things do change. One plus, lost 13 pounds.

Greg jus wondering how you are feeling now? I am on the following meds since my heart attack in '12 and valve job this past Dec Metoprolol tartrate 50 mg twice a day Furosemide 20 mg twice a day, but now down to once a day Atorvastatin (Plavix) 20 mg but a 1/2 tablet so it would be 10 mg now pacerone 100 mg once a day, it did start out at twice a day this is one where I have to have my eyes checked at least once a year warfarin sodium 7.5 daily as directed, but I have to have it monitored by blood tests to make sure my blood doesn't get too thin and last but not least, a baby aspirin once a day

Turquois and grey would also look good, somewhat dependent on the shade of each. In High school I had a 1955 Pontiac that was turquoise and black.....my buddies called it the 'bruise'.......won't recommend that combo...

A bit of paint and a brush can cover and preserve with very little cost.

What can be done is very personal. For me, I would wipe it down with acetone to remove the oxidization, (50's) used car trick, then I would give it a good cleaning 320 wet/dry sand paper, then a final rub down with 600 grit. Follow thatcwith several coats of semi gloss clear. That is what I did pre fire. I know it is controversial but every one walks by the shiny paint jobs and come see me.

Pleasure driving only? What is that? Wink Wink I personally don't want any of my cars to have the insurance caveats on them, as I don't want to be limited to my driving pleasure time in them. I've also let my older one drive my 48 last year on private property at 13. Not that I recommend anybody do the same, but I want to instill that thrill in them, we all remember our first time driving a tractor or 4x4 and what's cooler than your old man letting you drive his "Hot Rod", even though mine is far from it. But mine are also not as nice as most of yours, but that doesn't mean I'm not as proud of my old Mopar. I've noticed that most people steer very clear of these old beauties while driving, even when they are covered in black primer.

With the wheels posted such as the American Racing or even the police car steelies... that to me says hot rod. Tiny wire wheels, over the top metal flake paint fits the low rider scene in my opinion.

I'm a hotrodder so the Bob Marley & Wailers running gear sounds o/k by me....lol.......that rear end setup looks good.....btw is the rear end a transaxle or just the diff?....that third member mount looks good...........oh........and I added 2" into each rear fender on my 1940 Dodge when I rodded it in 1973, gas welded and hammer finished the whole way....lol........andyd.

Also, there is a rubber isolator pad between the steering box and the frame, it it is worn and gummy, very likely after 65+ years, it will allow a lot of movement before transferring any to the tie rods. Some have a center splitter also same deal here, it is loose it will transfer motion less effectively.