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Hi fellas (& gals) My buddy brought an old farm truck up to PA from Virginia and we trade it back and forth every five years or so when one of us runs out of steam on it. It is kind of a heap and kind of super awesome. It's never been a good driver but we've always putted it around as much as possible. He christened it the Dude Magnet because it always attracts a crowd and there are never any women in that crowd! The last time I had it I put a rustyhope front disc kit on it. It stopped better but the underfloor setup was never perfected with the dual pot master etc. I'm about to put a power booster on the firewall and a cable throttle while I'm at it. The mechanical throttle just needs too much work. My buddy put a lot of time and money into her but with the sketchy brakes it just still wasn't a good daily driver. It also needs some wiring. He did a lot of neat stuff to it: fenton repop iron 3 into 1 dual headers, 32/36 weber carb, oil filter with pressure bypass, tremec 5 speed on the floor, rebuilt 230 flathead motor, 15 gal fuel cell under the bed, aluminum radiator with custom welded aluminum brackets/frame, and even a nice rubber floor. I am about to install power brakes, a cable throttle (current setup doesn't get WOT and is kinda beat) and I'm on the hunt for a new rear with more modern brakes. I'm excited to be on this forum- not a lot of these trucks are still around!

I make my own out of olive oil, scented candles, and pomade (I'm a Dapper Dan man.)

That 's why I drink it, naturally sterile...can't be too careful these days.

I just saw a website that gave me the information I needed.It's from a 53 Windsor. Would it be a 265 ci? C53 265? 25 inches Chrysler Car Chrysler C60 Windsor 1953 1953

Like Merle said the pos ground goes to the transmission. A slight improvement may be to run it to a starter bolt instead. Make sure you use heavy #0 cables. The store bought ones for 12 volt are too light to turn the starter fast enough.

just for giggles I bought a 607 off e-pay (not quite a match) then I found a local guy that has some radios i made a cardboard cut out of the cutout in my B3 dash and matched it up. the 812 fits in the dash cut out (hard to hold the phone and radio) now, I just have to figure out haw to mount it although I am not really a fan of it against the white

You can install a brake line lock, way better than an E brake. Make sure no leaks in brake system.

For Plymouth serial numbers after WW II, serial numbers starting with "1" were built in Detroit, "25", "26," and "28" were built in California, "20", "21", "22", "23", and "24" were Evansville. Canadian production stated with "95" or "96". For the California-built cars, the San Leandro plant (1949 to 1954) used numbers beginning with "255", "265" and "285". After 1955 "265" numbers were V8 models built in Los Angeles. The "281" and "285" numbers were used in 1957 for Plymouths built at Newark, Delaware. Newark came on line late in the 1957 model year. The plant was built in 1951 for production of tanks, but by 1955 the US government did not need new tanks. As for the export Dodges, they were built in both the US and Canada. Prior to 1951 the US-built Kingsways used the same model numbers as the Canadian Plodges and had their own seven digit serial number sequences starting with either "3" or "4". The export Kingsway was built at the Lynch Road plant in Detroit with some models from Evansville. Starting with the 1951 models, the US-built Kingsway used US Detroit Plymouth serial numbers and placed the letter "D" in front of the Plymouth engine number. Thus the engine on a 1951 or 1952 Kingsway built in the U.S. would start with DP23. The engine should be a 23" block, 217.6-cid flathead six. Also, production figures for the US-built Kingsway were included with Plymouth while the Canadian versions were still separate from Plymouth. At least through 1956. Chrysler began production of 25" block flathead sixes for the Canadian-built cars and trucks in mid-1938. Thus the early 1938 Plymouth, Dodge, DeSoto, Chrysler, and Fargo sixes built in Canada had American engines. Chrysler of Canada built no convertibles of any kind from 1937 through to 1962. All were imported from Detroit. And all imported cars from Detroit were built to US specs. Thus they had 23" flathead engines (Plymouth and Dodge), American colours, American serial numbers, etc. The first Plodge convertible sold in Canada after 1936 was the 1954 Dodge Mayfair. They had "Mayfair" script on the rear quarter panels, with a small rubber plug filling the hole needed for the longer Belvedere and Kingsway script. Engine was the Plymouth engine. As for the Swedish Dodge, it appears it may be a 1951 Dodge Kingsway Custom sedan. The serial number would tell. The hubcaps with the red centre were used on 1951 US-built Dodges. The trunk lid is a quick way to tell way to tell 1951 from 1952. The 1951 had the "DODGE" letters a few inches above the license plate light housing (as in 1950) while the 1952 had the letters down on the housing. Also, the 1950-51 light had a round lens while the 1952 was rectangular. Chrysler shipped CKD (Completely Knocked Down) units to various plants all over the world. What was in the box depended upon what the receiving company wanted. Bodies could be shipped painted in white or in a finished colour. Some countries used local suppliers for various parts (interiors, rubber, electrical) and thus those parts were not shipped. DP23*241 321* - DP23 is for a 1951-52 Dodge Kingsway (all three series) 241 321 - The 240,321st engine built. What is the serial number? Bill

Hey everyone I'm new to the chrysler scene just bought my first mopar product. It's a 1947 Windsor all original complete car, semi project needs front floor pans and the engine needs looked over. I've never messed with these older cars before in fact the oldest car I have touched was my 72 monte carlo. A little info on the car would be greatly appreciated. Thank you all in advance.

One more picture

Here are some other pictures of the truck - it looks good from 20ft

Has it been that long Don? That was a fun visit!

Welcome, Vintage power Wagons also is a good source on engine parts. If you need any engine stuff, I have some extra items to offer you if needed. Everyone here will be glad to help you along with your journey.

vacuum wipers. I got rid of mine and put in chrysler electric. I hate vacuum wipers.

Check closely before removing those strips. The new ones might be designed to go over the old ones. My dad did this with his 41 Chevy. Cut, cold chiseled and ground the old ones off. In doing it, he put wrinkles in the sheet metal. When he went to put on the nice new stainless ones he found they were designed to just go over the old, creating even more work installing them.

W. C. Fields would not drink water, preferring strong drink instead. He did not want to drink anything that fish made love in. Ah,yes...

purchase the copy the information is the same so why need the original if a copy will get used and grease on it. It is just a reference manula to assit you in getting the car put back together. Rich Hartung

I saw Bob's Woodie several years ago while he was waiting for the wood man to complete those parts and I will testify that just the motor/trans/rearend/ frame look as good as everything else does now! Beautiful! Way better than the factory ever produced appearance wise at least. Hope to see it completed in person at this upcoming BBQ. DJ

Plymouth picnic this side of the pond. We will commence planning for our 4th annual P15/D24 group Tour Northeast Division. Even though our highest car count has been 5 more are always welcomed. Currently looking at the Delaware Water Gap area of Pa, NY, NJ. Most likely in late July early August. Hopefully this area will be more convenient for more people to participate. More details will follow as they develop. Activities will include scenic drives, museum visits, tire kicking and tall story telling, and the obligatory stop at any craft breweries we may stumble across. Also remember the POC grand national is scheduled for 2018 in the Detrtoit vacinity. Check for dates etc on the POC web site.

The truth about Plymouth and the Pilgrams on the Mayflower. The went ashore where they did because they were out of beer and were down to drinking stale water. Beer is naturally sterile after fertmentqtion and resists turning in storage. The intrepid band was lookin for a source of fermentables, high sugar content plants and good water to refill their beer casks. Look it up!!!

I'll have to enjoy the outing via your pictures.

My Pos battery cable goes to one of the transmission cover bolts. I also have a smaller wire from that bolt on the block skirt going to the chassis/body to help with that ground.

Lots of "Ike" jackets on e bay both vintage military and repops. Thus called for Dwight D (lke) Eisenhower's preference for them over Army class A uniform jacket. 30 bucks and up.

Thanks for the compliment Tom. I am big mostly because I have a beautiful wife who is an excellent cook. Crab legs and steak last night. Retirement has been good to me. The physical ailments that go along with advanced age have not been so good. But this forum has been a lot of fun for a lot of years.

Before you buy parts,you need to know what parts to buy. My recommendation to you is the same as I have given everyone else. The first two things you want to buy is a factory service manual that covers your car,and the second thing you need to buy is a Motors Auto Repair Manual that covers the year car you have. http://www.ebay.com/itm/VTG-1947-MOTORS-AUTO-REPAIR-MANUAL-10TH-EDITION-2014q-/351986389617?hash=item51f4061271:g:7O4AAOSw4A5Yqilo More options on service manuals http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=1947+chrysler+manual&clk_rvr_id=1180668468972&gclid=CKKHn-zmzNICFZKIswodEdYH_g&geo_id=10232&MT_ID=69&crlp=166943548443_1627&rlsatarget=kwd-176072854118&keyword=1947+chrysler+manual&treatment_id=7&poi=&adpos=1o2&device=c&crdt=0&ul_noapp=true You also need to buy a factory service manual http://www.autopaper.com/1941-1942-1946-1947-1948-chrysler-shop-service-repair-manual.php Then start looking around for a factory parts manual. Harder to find and a lot more expensive,but you get to see a picture of the part as well as the original Chrysler factory parts number. Here is one you can buy now if you don't want to wait to find a bargain. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Plymouth-Dodge-Desoto-Chrysler-1936-1937-1938-1939-1940-1946-1947-Parts-Manual-/182396356563?hash=item2a77ab87d3:g:kiwAAOSw241YYMNR&vxp=mtr

Do a forum search for "engine oil" using the quotation marks. I just did so and got 341 hits. As mentioned this subject has been cussed and discussed many times. Ask 100 people what they recommend and you will get 100 different answers. Bottom line use what makes you feel good as all oil sold these days is made to the same minimum specifications for all additives.

I've scanned all the input to your original post and here's my 2 cents. Sounds like you're not adverse to doing something different and, a "cost effective" build is what would give you the most satisfaction and quickest turn around. Aesthetics and efficient use of money and resources is my thing so here goes. As the Chev 6 and 3 spd is in and hopefully functional, for now leave it be. Stock steering will work just fine. Definitely do disk brakes and,.....I would do the Fatman dropped spindles to begin the aesthetic part. Since you have wrecking yard contact, there are any number of Mopar, Ford or Jeep rearends with the correct width and bolt pattern,...and with a more highway friendly ratio. With those upgrades you could be up and running in pretty short order. And running/driving, even with the modest changes is very satisfying. Then, while driving, you can plan your next wave of upgrades. A 4 spd would be fun,...5 would be more fun ('tho your rear ratio should be taken into account). And I'm guessing that the clutch linkage could be pretty easily worked out with the GM transmissions. Or,...why not a Th350 or 700R if you want automatic. I have a friend with a Chev 6 in front of a 700R4 and it worked quite well. Tough decisions , eh! Good luck and keep us posted, especially with pics.

Pretty sure at 1:03 the guy calls the driver an a-hole........maybe cuz he didn't buckle in the kids?.....:D 48D

I have seen this many many times and on almost all makes. The wrong gasket or a gasket which is wrongly installed keeps the "power " valve open and mileage is cut almost in half. A vacuum leak will do this too. Look for a crack in the middle intake runner between the manifold and the block usually on the underside.

chryslers and fords and other vehicles from about 1948 to 1953 some grand cherokees back in the ealy 80s used them too or very close to it in there tail gate windows

Cool... something for the Hawk to chase down...

Hey there! Thanks for the offer, took me this long to check my email. Yeah she's up and running again temporarily, before the next round of repairs/improvements start. Engine is running about as well as can be expected for an old jalopy, meaning that with the knock gone I can really her the valves rattling, hahah. I ended up ordering all the parts off rockauto for $69.99 plus shipping. (Piston, Oil pan gasket, cylinder head gasket.) Seriously! These things are cheaper to run than small block chebbies! One of my customers old Grand Cherokees had a transmission go bad, so they sold the thing to me for scrap. Next up is a rear axle swap with disc brakes. Hopefully the fluid drive can cope with a 3.55:1 rear gear ratio. Already nabbed the wheels and tires. Really really surprised the jeep wheels and 235/75R15's fit in there with only the slightest amount of butchery. I think I like it. And it sure drives better with modern tires than the skinny bias plies it had before. The kids have been drawing on it again thanks to nice weather.

A few years back my city slicker over protected granddaughter was at our place for a few days in the fall. Her grandma picked some green beans and ate them right in the garden. Our granddaughter couldn't believe grandma did not wash it first. Now she comes over and will pull out a carrot and wipe if off on her pants and eat it right in the garden. Another time I had her drive my utility tractor and she was to light so I put a jumper wire in the safety switch so she could drive it without the tractor shutting off. Her mom showed up and she had to show her how she could drive grandpas tractor all by herself. Her mom overheard me telling someone that I had to override the safety switch, mom just gave me a dirty look and walked away. The good news is that the parents have realized that the kids get a great education when they are here.

A lot of kids today are being turned into delicate little snowflakes by over protective parents and society. Bring them up wisely... then let em design their wonderful future!

Had a couple hours free to finally tackle the mystery engine knock. It sounded kind of like a rod knock, but less consistent, and only under load. I checked the bottom end earlier and everything looked pretty good, but I installed new rod and main bearings anyway since I was in there. No change. Drove the car all over with that knock this summer. Probably a thousand miles or so and noticed it getting progressively worse. Pulling spark plug wires one at a time revealed the noise went away when #5 cylinder wasn't firing! Finally! I tried this last year but couldn't get the knock to show itself in the shop, had to be driving with a significant load (pulling a hill, etc). Pulling spark plug wires one at a time also revealed that my ignition system seems to be working pretty well, as it had no problems shooting a 1/2" gap right through a heavy leather welding glove. That stuff will wake you up better than coffee, haha. Well, now I know where to look. Let's do this! He's smiling because he got to run the impact wrench. Slight scoring on #5 cylinder wall... hmm, so far so good... Whoa, that's not good! Are pistons supposed to have speed holes? Well, that explains the noise at least. Cylinder wall looks a bit scored, but I cant feel it with a fingernail or anything and there's no ring ridge to speak of so I'm just going to replace the piston and run it. And maybe mill the head since it's off, and then get a twin carb intake, and then a split exhaust manifold, and then, and then, and then...

Love your narrative and photo's! You don't just have an old Dodge - that's performance art!

Well, it's been awhile since I last posted. Thought some of you guys might be interested in checking out what "The fitty" was up to this summer, and some of the progress (or lack therof). I might catch flak for this, but I'm not into the "patina look" so I had to do something with the paint... Hmmm... maybe hot rod black Yes, that's better. Wait a minute... Oh no you dinnit... (we had to grill it into the kids that "the old old car" was THE ONLY one they were allowed to draw on.) To the demolition derby and the figure 8 (it was easy money in the bank). Luckily the other competitors saw that one quarter panel contained more metal than their entire cars, and quickly conceded. Out to a "Show n Shine" at the local park. (Well, we showed, but we're gonna have to work on the "shine" part) Why you little!! Then to a little more lively cruise night So now that it's cold again I'll hopefully be posting here again. Still lots to do to the old girl, firstly a hard to diagnose and slightly worsening mystery engine knock :o.

And THERE is the "magic" that makes it all worthwhile.

Chet; I was told long ago that use of the 1" bore master cylinder on a P-15 would work well with less pedal pressure required than the standard bore. As you recall I was also told by ECI that with my drum/disc setup (using larger disc calipers that come with the ECI bolt on kit) that I would not have enough strength in my leg to push my pedal using any master cylinder with a bore larger than 15/16". Also with the ECI setup they use an extended pivot bracket that appears to take away from the mechanical advantage unless I am looking at this wrong. I believe they use this extension due to the required length of master cylinder piston travel.

1/0 wire will do fine, especially on that short of a run. I was worried about the possibility of the common 4 gauge being used.

these trucks were originally built with that ground cable running to the transmission case cuz it's a short run (cheaper to build). But over time, corrosion at all of the thread surfaces of bolts & tapped holes increases resistance cumulatively to put a drag on the starter motor, etc. Ol' Gene at the starter/alternator shop in town told me awhile back to run that 1/0 cable from the battery to one of the starter bolt mounting holes to reduce this cumulative resistance. I did so on the '49 with new 1/0 cables with new soldered lugs, and WOW that starter spun fast and cranking time went waaay down to get that 230 to fire up. It's an easy modification that yields instant results and only the trained eye would know that this cable routing is not accurate to the original manufacture but could have been done back in the day because the technology (i.e. longer cables with soldered lugs) existed back then.