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welded the rot in the drivers side rear inner wing and made up a skirt to try out the art deco streamliner look! I think I like it

I don,t understand why you are blaming the block for the fitment problem. After all the original part fit correctly did it not? So then you get a piece from another corporation that has been modified in several ways, and wonder why it doesn't just drop in! My first suspect would be the foreign piece. Will you blame the engine if you can't get it timed or it doesn't run smoothly,there is a miss or it doesn't start right?

No front primary short lining shoe or rear secondary long shoes are used on our B series trucks like what the man was talking about. The linings on the B3 P/U's should be the same length for front and rear brakes. Do you know the oversize of each drum? I think your shoes need to be properly arced to each of the drums to get the shoes to work and wear in properly.Your shoes are way out of adjustment -only the heel is contacting the drum. Always arching the shoes if you can saves a lot of time and frustration. Well for a quickie test I think I'd try putting the lower anchor bolt arrows back to stock position pointing to each other , readjust the cams so the shoes lightly drag against the drums and do a good road test. They might work a heck of a lot better-hopefully! Re check the wear pattern location after the road test too. Bob

What did you say?

There are 6 Dodge pickups, Jeep Grand Cherokee, 6 Honda 4 wheelers, a John Deere Gator , a couple forklifts and two tractors in the yard but here are a couple pictures of the most interesting. First a Ram 2500 Laramie Crew Cab 4X4 with new 6.4 Liter V8 Hemi (also has coil springs on the rear). Second is a 1974 Dodge Custom 300 Power Wagon with a bale feeder bed (converted to propane).

Is this a 25" long block? If so the crank has to be in a set position as there is no enough room between the counterweights for the head of the distributor shaft to fit it. The shaft should have a narrow section where to clear the counterweights when everything is correctly assembled. I think Don Coatney has a photo or diagram showing this.

O.K. I'll play. This photo shows all four of my old cars. Clock-wise from top left: 1. 1940 Dodge D14 4 dr. (Canadian car). In family since 1940 and I have owned since 1968. 2. 1941 Dodge D20 4 dr. (Canadian car). Original un-restored. I have owned since 1973. 3. 1965 Corvair Monza 2 dr. coupe. My son purchased in 1994 and I have had since about 2000. 4. 1964 Pontiac Tempest 2 dr. post, 326 ci automatic. Owned since 1981. Currently under restoration. 'Was' a very rusty car. Just put body back on frame. Phil

Bummer, wish i was closer, i have a frame for a 53 i am not going to use. It sounds like you are going to be into it at least $400. by the time you buy one, travel, etc. take it to a local community college and see if they will work on it for training? just occurred to me the vin number is on the frame, if you changed frames might have to change the data tag or file for a lost title? sorry if this was mentioned already and i missed it. Best of luck

my newest toy,,,weather permitting only,,

get it insured for the purchase price, drive it to the bad side of town & leave the keys in it