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All I can do is reference my 1950 parts book and google images. What I've said is deduced from that. Anything about other years is speculation. There is no possible way a 2 and 4 door can be the same, or they would share part numbers. You're talking a two sided shape vs a one.

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Yes, I saw your post from the other day and I'm glad to be of help. I think nobody has talks about this because not very many rod bolts have cut threads. I think those went out in the early days, and it's probably one of those things that most people don't pay much attention to or know about. That's a good idea to ask about offset reaming. Good luck with getting your rods and bolts to play well together!

When I take the rods in for resizing with "rolled thread" bolts, I am going to ask if the reaming can have an outward bias. Don't know if this is possible. MATT, I hope you saw that you nailed the problem. Isn't it odd that no one has ever mentioned this situation? dan...

I took a quick look at it tonight (cold) and it looks a little damp but not like it was when I took the photo (warm) . Will have to investigate the conditions further.

That's great news! No need to PM, you can just post them here, I am sure everyone would appreciate these, for reference 😀

I do! Probably tomorrow I'll have time to take a few pics and will PM you.

I usually fix these with sealant-dressed gasket If the fuel is actually going "upstream" I am thinking that there might be heat and/or pressure (the line between pump and carb) involved 🤔 In any event, more information from the TS will probably be useful, at this point.

could the airhorn not be perfectly flat? I have seen this. Someone took a piece of flat plate glass then put emery paper down on the glass then put the bottom of the airhorn on the emery paper and then rubbed the airhorn across the paper to find a hihg spot and to get the entire airhorn perfectly flat on all the outer edges. This is just a WAG or Wild Ass Guess as they say in the Army. Rich hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

I agree to that Ivan. Then add in a hairline crack and the float weight and fuel weight, it might be enough to slowly wick or drive the fuel up that crack, when you add in the Meniscus properties. He did say it was a slow weep that would wet the carb. Like I said, just a guess and I could be wrong, but it does make for an interesting topic. Joe Lee

I do not believe that Meniscus would be high-enough to overflow over the edge like this, with the proper float level 🤔

At least NPT is the same in both Canada & USA Same deal with my tank, from Tanks. Uses NPT. ..... I used a flexible line from the tank to a filter mounted on the frame rail. I thought about running hard line to the frame then add a filter ..... such a short run on a truck just not worth it.

That's the tank in my P15, it fits and functions just fine. It doesn't have a pickup filter, I installed a filter in the fuel line just forward of the tank. My tank doesn't use the little brass ferrule from the old tank, it has NPT pipe threads.

I am looking to replace my gas tank in my Canadian 1951 Dodge D39 business coupe. This is basically a Plymouth and takes the same tank. I am looking for recommendations of suppliers of replacement tanks. Good fit is important to me. I basically want a bolt in where everything like fuel filler, sending unit, and gas line fitting match. I did find one online (eBay) by a company called Vans Auto LLC. They are about $180 cheaper than Moparpro. Anyone heard of them? Moparpro tank looks good as well. Any recommendations? Thanks for your time and any advice.

Nobody mentioned 8 Volt!

Are you talking about the area of the forward bold hole by the fuel inlet? If so, that looks like a fine crack and maybe that is causing a wicking action. It's something I remembered from chemistry called a Meniscus (liquid). It has to do with the attraction of a liquid to its container. This link tells about the phenomenon using water. https://www.usgs.gov/special-topics/water-science-school/science/water-meniscus Not saying this is your problem, but maybe? I'd heck the area with a magnifying glass and make sure it is or isn't a crack and go from there. Joe Lee

Carefully check the junction between the intake and exhaust manifold at the heat riser. That gasket can go bad and the sealing surfaces can erode making sealing difficult. Be sure you use the procedure outlined in the service manual when you reassemble the manifolds.

Thank you for your answers. I have already ordered the manifold gasket. I will check the manifold for defects. It could be that the intake manifold has a crack. The engine has only 17 inHG despite a precisely adjusted ignition and well-set carburetor

Looks like a WWII blackout version

Problem solved. I replaced the seal this past weekend. There is a specific depth and stop when installing the seal.

It still has holes in it and the bottom has not been blasted. If moisture can get in and sit, it'll rust. Panel adhesive has been used for years now. A lot of roofs are now glued on as well as some doors, rocker panels.

More work on the truck.

maybe we need two forums, one for the DIY and one for the Pay as you Go crowd......😀 Never seen the logic of coming here for info and ending the thread with pass this along to my mechanic....if they are a mechanic, he/she should already know if not what to do, but at least how to find the info for themselves and not get watered down third party hearsay.

I think the debate about cost, etc, goes on because many people are not DIY-inclined. They are interested in a "kit", that can be just installed without further consideration, and are willing to pay for it. Similar to taxes: for most, it's just standard deduction and you can do it yourself, with minimal research, for free. Yet, it is "easier" for many people to pay someone else to do it for them.