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I had to rejoin as I could never get through to the admin asking why my security question kept repeating when I answer the question. Pretty easy to know the mascot of my HS. Anyway, drug out the 47 Dodge 3 window from winter storage and my headlights no longer work. Tail lights and blinkers work fine. Any tips on what to check first? Switch, breaker or start at the head lights and work my way back?

Poly engine 1955 or newer since it has the water jacket in the front of each head. Locate the engine number stamped on the block as PA said it should be on the block rail in front of the oil fill tube. I attached a link to help once you have the numbers. EarlyHemi and related Poly Engine ID codes – Quality Engineered Components

Look for the engine number stamped on the block. You should find it next to the oil fill tube at the top of the engine, behind the water pump. Still at that I understand there are three engine possibilites

Look for the serial number, around the block, that should give you the necessary info. This looks like a Polyspherical Head V8.

I am inheriting my Great Grandfather's 1955 Dodge C1-C8-116 this summer and I am just getting all my info together so when it comes to work and parts I have the best info that I can have. I know the truck has a V8 but I cannot find how to identify which engine it is exactly. I am guessing it is a 241ci Poly instead of the Hemi, just based on pictures that I could find. Can any of you identify it by this picture and that the tag says 125HP at 4000RPM and 145HP at 4400RPM(ignore the dirtiness)? I can get other info if needed, but pretty sure this is what would be needed. Thanks for the help!

I was under impression that the carb was leaking from the gasket and Mark removed the top to investigate further 🤔

I have never left a carb on the engine with the top off with gas in it. Wonder if this would happen on other similar carbs left in the same situation.

Thank you for that note. I only have the PDF scan from the Plymouth parts manual I mentioned, and it is not searchable. Yesterday I looked through all of the pages of the section titled Numerical Index, that shows the match-up for part numbers, page numbers, & part type codes (pages 444 - 482, with 4 column on each page) The photo on page 330 in the Body section indicates the Part Type Code. This list is organized per the Part number, but the PDF scan is not very clear, and I didn't find the Part Type Code. So I don't have the part number information for the Plymouth. But while I do not have my 49 P15 2-door here for me to look at it directly and make a 'real world comparison" (would also have to remove the arm rest from the car, to see the little bit of the back side that is exposed on the 4-door P15), the shape of the arm rests appear to be identical in the few photos I have of that area of the interior. So at least in respect to the P15s, I find it difficult to believe that they would have chosen to not use that very small bit of upholstery material on the 2-doors as well as the 4-doors, forcing them to have completely separate inventory supplies. (That piece of material is 5" wide by 13" in length. And they would have still had to use some type of fabric there anyway, unless the arm rest frame was also different. That just doesn't seem like an efficient manufacturing model to me - and my business is in manufacturing. Also, regarding conservation of fabric, along the back and bottom of the arm rest, where there is a need to be able to stretch it tight, there is around 2 inches of excess fabric.) But of course, as you said, I am talking about the P15, and you are talking about the 50 Dodge, so the case might be completely different. I WOULD be interested in seeing that page out of your Dodge Parts book, if you happen to have a scanner. (Or, if your Dodge book is available here in PDF format - the name of the book, and the page number where this information appears. Thanks.)

SURVIVOR: saw this Dodge between Lake Graham and Newcastle

All I can do is reference my 1950 parts book and google images. What I've said is deduced from that. Anything about other years is speculation. There is no possible way a 2 and 4 door can be the same, or they would share part numbers. You're talking a two sided shape vs a one.

View Advert Wanted! D24 Turn Signal/High Beam Indicator Bezel Looking for the 1946 to 1948 D24 dash turn signal/high beam indicator bezel and backing bracket with bulb sockets. I realize they are tough to find, but thought I'd give it a try. This is for my dad's 1947 business coupe and about the only thing left he is needing. Any help finding one is appreciated. Thanks, Donnie Advertiser Donkeybee Date 04/23/2024 Price Category Individual Member Classified Wanted Ad  

Yes, I saw your post from the other day and I'm glad to be of help. I think nobody has talked about this because not very many rod bolts have cut threads. I think those went out in the early days, and it's probably one of those things that most people don't pay much attention to or know about. That's a good idea to ask about offset reaming. Good luck with getting your rods and bolts to play well together!

When I take the rods in for resizing with "rolled thread" bolts, I am going to ask if the reaming can have an outward bias. Don't know if this is possible. MATT, I hope you saw that you nailed the problem. Isn't it odd that no one has ever mentioned this situation? dan...

I took a quick look at it tonight (cold) and it looks a little damp but not like it was when I took the photo (warm) . Will have to investigate the conditions further.

That's great news! No need to PM, you can just post them here, I am sure everyone would appreciate these, for reference 😀

I do! Probably tomorrow I'll have time to take a few pics and will PM you.

I usually fix these with sealant-dressed gasket If the fuel is actually going "upstream" I am thinking that there might be heat and/or pressure (the line between pump and carb) involved 🤔 In any event, more information from the TS will probably be useful, at this point.

could the airhorn not be perfectly flat? I have seen this. Someone took a piece of flat plate glass then put emery paper down on the glass then put the bottom of the airhorn on the emery paper and then rubbed the airhorn across the paper to find a hihg spot and to get the entire airhorn perfectly flat on all the outer edges. This is just a WAG or Wild Ass Guess as they say in the Army. Rich hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

I agree to that Ivan. Then add in a hairline crack and the float weight and fuel weight, it might be enough to slowly wick or drive the fuel up that crack, when you add in the Meniscus properties. He did say it was a slow weep that would wet the carb. Like I said, just a guess and I could be wrong, but it does make for an interesting topic. Joe Lee

I do not believe that Meniscus would be high-enough to overflow over the edge like this, with the proper float level 🤔

At least NPT is the same in both Canada & USA Same deal with my tank, from Tanks. Uses NPT. ..... I used a flexible line from the tank to a filter mounted on the frame rail. I thought about running hard line to the frame then add a filter ..... such a short run on a truck just not worth it.

That's the tank in my P15, it fits and functions just fine. It doesn't have a pickup filter, I installed a filter in the fuel line just forward of the tank. My tank doesn't use the little brass ferrule from the old tank, it has NPT pipe threads.

I am looking to replace my gas tank in my Canadian 1951 Dodge D39 business coupe. This is basically a Plymouth and takes the same tank. I am looking for recommendations of suppliers of replacement tanks. Good fit is important to me. I basically want a bolt in where everything like fuel filler, sending unit, and gas line fitting match. I did find one online (eBay) by a company called Vans Auto LLC. They are about $180 cheaper than Moparpro. Anyone heard of them? Moparpro tank looks good as well. Any recommendations? Thanks for your time and any advice.

Nobody mentioned 8 Volt!