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Thank you, I already studied this material in the forum tech. section, here. So, if I understand correctly, the end-play (gap between the rotors and the back plate) is adjusted with either machining the housing or the rotors. Since my current pump is working alright and I just need to replace the plate o-ring, It seems that I can just remove the plate, replace the o-ring, and then put the plate back on. The plate is mounted metal-to-metal, with the o-ring squeezed in between. So I do not believe that re-installing the same plate will affect the gap, right? 🙄

Update I found a new old stock clutch tourqe kit for80.00 on ebay. Kit includes 2 clutch peddle linkages (One is longer interesting) 1clutch adjustment rod 2 torque. shaft bushings 1 torque shaft It did not include the torque shaft retainer clips I have one one was missing I ordered the kit will install when it arrives

That is a 1940 Dodge truck located in a truck museum in New Zealand. The pictures came from another car web page.

VINTAGEPIC: had to squint to see this Dodge on the FB

SURVIVORS: saw these Dodges between Lake Graham and Newcastle

The Freewheeling Tony Smith covers this https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=2311340768887166&set=a.2311333932221183

I had a plastic filter melt and deform when mounted in a similar location. I replaced it with a metal filter and moved it to a better location. You are probably correct about the fuel not igniting when it hits the manifold. But it will boil off quickly and then the area under the hood will be filled with gasoline vapor. That vapor will ignite. A small fault in the ignition system can cause that.

Resurrecting this old topic. Did anyone managed to fix the leaking oil pump cover? I am replacing some gaskets around the engine, to reduce oil loss, and have noticed that my pump is also leaking. Am I correct in assuming that I can just remove the pump cover, put a new o-ring underneath and tighten it back-up the way it used to be? People mention something about the cover/rotor clearance. How is that adjusted? 🤔

Dextero DHT1...your mailbox is full, tried to send a message....

Years ago Goodyear made LOTS of third party tires., including Douglas. I wonder if they still do?

Yesterday I spent the better part of the day working the trim into place. The soapy water makes it easier, but not easy. No pictures yet. Maybe I'll get some help over the weekend. Today I go to work at the brewery.

I had bought a set for my 1964 Plymouth. I came in a very large box and it was bent around a five gallon bucket. I was very pleased with the fit. I think that one came from inline tube

I had friends who worked at both of them.

Thanks very much for that all of you!

Why in the world would you use stainless? 🤣 I bought a set of new lines for a modern car, at a local store, once. Had to "adapt" all of them because they did not fit right.

Make your own, unless it's stainless, that stuff is a monster to work with and requires expensive tooling.

Another vote for making your own. It’s like a puzzle to solve. You screw a few up. You learn. You get better. Building and shaping your first ever 3 ft line across the left rear axle housing? Order two 25 ft rolls of 3/16” brake line tube. 😄

I see what you did there.

I've heard a rumor that flathead replacement fuel pumps have a half-baked machined pin installed 🤔

First drive of the year this evening. Only a couple of miles, but it sure felt good.

I was going by his last sentence which says it happened when he turned it on.

It’s good to learn with these old bombs. When you get that perfect double flare you’ll then realize that you forgot to put the nut on. Oops . I enjoy making up my own fuel and brake lines. I agree with Plymouthy Adam’s, you’ll have to reshape them anyway after unpacking them.

preformed and then curve and bent to fit a box for shipping, you better off making your own tailor fit set.......