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  2. What charging system are you using? ..... In the past and even today it is cheaper and easier to just convert from 6V > 12V. I'm using a 12V 65 amp chebby alternator ... because I have reading comprehension issues .... cant read worth a crap! I wanted a single wire internally regulated but purchased a externally regulated .... so that added a extra item to wire in ... (regulator) All the light bulbs need to be changed, you will need a $12 voltage reducer for your fuel gauge, probably better off to buy a 12V heater blower motor. I would imagine the horn would work on 12 for awhile, unless it was worn out in the first place or they just layed on it and over heated it. You must live good to have electric wipers in a B1D .... My B1B has vacuum ..... again a $12 converter would fix that ...... I just do not understand the $75 buck converter or the Just kind of sounds like you got lost in the weeds on your conversion that you inherited when buying the truck. I figure I will have $300-$350 into a complete new 12V wiring system. I needed a new wiring harness. $75 for a basic 12 circuit from Amazon. $75 Alternator/regulator about $75 from rockauto. $75 I bought a 3 pack of the 12V > 6V converters from Amazon for $20 $20 All new bulbs including 2 new truck tail lights ... $50 $50 The different ends, extra wire, switches, flashers .... guessing $100 $100 So I already have $320 into it and just collecting parts ..... Someday I'm going to wire the truck! But I have everything for it .... And it is cheaper to go 12V then stay 6V ... IMHO
  3. It can Bevtough getting a car started on 6v in the winter, and generators are getting tough to come by, though I did find a shop that still rebuilds them. Problem is, they don’t look like original equipment at all. And, you’re right about Chinese parts. They do make some quality stuff. These converters appear to be well made and certainly worth the money.
  4. Did you ever find the steering wheel bearing and bushing? I just got them out of the column on my 52 wayfarer. They are in pretty good shape. You are welcome to have them if you can use them. Send me a message if you are interested.
  5. I’ve been really busy lately, but was just out in the shop after posting the previous message. The more I thought about it, the more I was thinking you’re right. It must fit if it was listed as an option. I was looking at the card board covering on the cab side of the firewall in that area. It looks like it’s scored for removal. That’s suspicious. And, I can see a bit of a bump-out on the other side of the firewall that might be there to accommodate the radio. It isn’t much, though. There’s some wires going through a hole at the top of that area that the previous owner put in. I’ll have to move that, too. Additionally, there’s all the cables and wires associated with the heater/vent controls just below it. I’ve gotta pull all that stuff out and see if it will wiggle in. It’s going to be tight, at best. I attached a pic of the firewall with the area circled in red.
  6. This is interesting. According to the license plate, this truck was registered sometime between 1946 and 1959 in Lvov, USSR. Might've been a Lend-Lease car.
  7. If the 802 was an accessory for your specific car, one would reasonably assume that it fits without issues. I suspect that you've definitely attempted to mount it correctly, etc.? Also, what do you mean by bells and whistles, how does it work? Is it an FM radio now? Do the dial buttons still work?
  8. I like 6 volt 😅 Thank you for the tips, though. There is no reason to be biased against Chinese parts, in particular. They can make cheap things, they can also make good things like iPhones, etc., it is what ever you want to pay for.
  9. Or install a 6v alternator, keep the 6v battery and drive happily ever after. 😁
  10. Today
  11. I bought a ‘49 B-1-D about a year ago. The previous owner “converted” it to 12v. Well, tried to. He burned out the horn, damaged the wiper motor and fried the heater motor. I was able to clean up the commutator on the wiper motor and rewound the horn coil myself. You can buy a 12v motor that will fit in the model 61 heater from Amazon. Search for “35482 blower motor”. I found a 25 amp 12v-6v “buck” converter for $75 on eBay and wired it to power the horn, wipers, and fuel gauge. Works great. But, since I had some stuff on 22v and some on 6v, I had to do a bit of wiring. I would advise anyone considering a 12 v conversion to take the easy and cheap route. Instead of buying a $800-$1000 kit and change over to 12v, just buy a 50amp converter and a single-wire alternator. Replace the regulator with the converter (have someone with electrical experience do this) and everything on the car stays 6v. I found the source for the converters. It’s AliExpress, the Chinese eBay that is operated by Alibaba. China is selling stuff on a fire sale lately. I found a 50amp converter from the same company for under $30 US, and bought 2 for spares. They are robust and well-made by a large Chinese electrical manufacturer - Szwengao. I wouldn’t normally recommend purchasing something from China, but no one in the US makes these. If you’re not averse to a little risk, download the AliExpress app, get a separate debit card to buy them with (just to be safe). 50amps is overkill, but they should last a long time. Hopefully.
  12. Hi all - Need some help identifying some parts...Is this a '42 Chrysler dash clock? Any idea what year/model windshield wiper mechanism this is? And...I think these '41 Plymouth window sill things are hard to come by...
  13. I bought a Mopar 802 last year and had it rebuilt by a guy in Canada that specializes in rebuilding/upgrading vintage car radios. It’s got all the bells and whistles while looking like a new 802. Here’s the “issue” I ran into: while the Mopar Accessories catalog for the B-1 trucks lists an install kit that accommodates both the 602 and 802 models, I can tell you that the 802 is at least an inch too long to fit between the firewall and dash on my ‘49. Now, I’ll be the first to admit it was foolish not to check that critical dimension, but since I measured the opening on the dash and it was a perfect fit, and the catalog says it was an option, I just assumed it would. The guy who rebuilt it said every 802 he’s had were the same size. Fortunately, the new electronics don’t take up much room in the case, so I’ll shorten up the case a couple inches on the back side and it’ll be ok. I’m guessing the 602 is probably shorter due to a smaller chassis, but I don’t know. Seems unlikely Mopar would have built a separate chassis for the trucks, since so few radios were ever sold for them. Anyone else experience anything like this, or had an 802 that did fit? I’m curious. I posted this for those who are thinking of heading down this path. Yes, it was extremely expensive to convert.
  14. Andy's show two different seals a T115 and a T115A and but does not stipulate between standard and overdrive but does stipulate for vehicles with powerflite trans.
  15. So I am trying to find out if anyone knows if the rear seal on the O/D trans and standard three speed trans are the same seal? I have a 48 Plymouth that an O/D was installed in, I have no idea what year the O/D is or if that matters, I know that the same drive shaft was used when the swap was made from standard three speed to O/D. I know that there is a difference in seals if you have a vehicle with the fluid drive per Andy's
  16. I hear you.. body working tools are somewhat reasonably priced, it's when you buy the blades,discs,bits and such that you have secure a 2nd house mtg to get them.
  17. It's just moderately sad that they even had to have that foresight. I've been in planning sessions like that for big events - Moderator: "What are the stupidest things you can think of that people might do for this event?" *Agency reps spitball dumber-than-a-hammer stuff* Moderator: "Ok, that's farfetched, but someone thought of it, so we'll have to plan for it."
  18. Yeah, my leak was coming from the counter shaft bore. I cleaned it well and sealed with rtv. No more leak. Thanks guys.
  19. Buying new tools - one of my favorite things to do. They don't have to be new - just new to me.
  20. I have always used screw drivers for these jobs. Just make sure the tip of the screwdriver blade securely grabs both sides of the brass. Grind down the wide sides of the blade so it fits in the hole. And it still works as a screwdriver when you're done.
  21. You trim down the portion that sticks in the port. The freewheeling Tony Smith has some info on his Facebook site
  22. Thanks, it does, and I had read that, but it didn't click. But it still created one of those "I wonder" moments. The bulbs in our car are Sylvania, I don't have the part number. That could be them. I haven't seen any for a long time, an article on a car in Hemmings Motor News many years ago. I don't even remember the make of the car, just that it was a high end '30's car and for whatever reason that's what comes to mind when someone mentions Trippe lights. I'll solve my confusion and look them up in the near future.
  23. 1946 Chevrolet Pickup 327 V8 Cold AC On Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/305427281584?
  24. I spotted another V8 decal that was posted on this site a few years ago:
  25. Yesterday
  26. additional information - flathead identification
  27. Matt, The bushings I did were custom. First checked the small end for roundness and taper. I don’t recall if I honed to correct any issues, but normally we’d hone them to make them perfectly round and eliminate taper. Then we called Crower with a spec 0.002” larger than the rod small end ID for proper interference fit. The bushing ID is ordered smaller than the OD of the wrist pin. Once installed (press fitted) into the rod small end the bushing is honed to a final clearance about (edit for this particular build per blueprint notes) 0.0005” larger than the wrist pin for proper oil clearance. Honestly have no idea where these ended up for thickness as that was 6-7 years ago now, but they aren’t very thick at all. Basically they just allow the rod end to be fitted to the wrist pin. These were all bronze. No steel shell. Hope this answers your question! JIM
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