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That's a good point, did not think about the pressure. I cannot find the data sheet for the fel-pro rubber-cork material... Other manufacturers rate theirs at around 100-150psi 🤔

Are your rims actually rusty on the inside? Mine were pretty clean (original paint, too), so I just washed them and that's it. The tubeless tires use soapy water for mounting. Since we have tubes, I just used the good old tire talc powder. Both on the tube and inside the tire (spread it around with a piece of cloth, etc). Do not use organic baby powder for automotive tires 🤣 You don't have to worry about setting the bead, etc. Your biggest concern should be how to not pinch the tube in between the tire and the rim. Also, make sure that you have the correct-size tubes. One of my old tubes had a fold in it. When I put the tires on, I inflated them to around 10 psi, just to hold shape, and then pushed around the sidewall, on both sides, to make sure that the tube was nicely seated in the middle of the rim.

Finally found some new 7.50 x 20” tires and picked them up today. What are some suggestions for coating the inner rim and split ring? I was going to use rustoluem on the rims and baby powder the flap & tube, 3-36 on the rings when mounting. Not sure if I’ll need to ether for setting the bead on these since I have tubes? I figure there are old school tire guys on here that may have better suggestions? I have (6) to do and don’t what any re-works. Have some 30t straps that I am planning to wrap. Also have log chains but thought the straps could be adjusted better for safety. As always—thank you, Kevin

I bought a really cheap pair of brake spring pliers years ago. They bent before the spring even budged. Got my money back and bought a slightly more expensive pair. Same story. Got my money back again but went to another store where I bought an expensive pair. I’ve probably used them a hundred times since and they still look new. You probably know the moral of the story but I’ll tell you anyway…….. spend the money and buy quality tools that lasts.

What Dodge?

So shoot me, but imagine an eight foot pickup bed behind that cabover....

NHOU.

It was probably round originally and has been subjected to years of being compressed into a square cut groove. I wouldn't want to subject cork to the pressure that is developed in an oil pump. Are those Ebay rings square cut or round? Calipers to measure ID and OD of groove.

Also have decided to replace my pilot bushing the new one arrived today

These o-rings are still available on e-bay... The size is listed at 2-17/32 or 64.3mm (not sure ID or OD though 🤣). The original ring is square cross-section, correct. However, I suspect that either type (or even a properly-sized cork) will work. I will dress it with sealant, anyway. I'll take my cap off, today, to see what's in there. Technically, you can even bead-seal it without the ring, like it is done on some modern vehicles. I do not like the sealant-only solution, though. This is likely done for cost saving.

You know, looking at the pics in the link I provided, they don't look like square cut O rings, but if that is what they are then that's what you need. McMaster Carr has a good listing of square cut O rings in Buna N

More funny is the kit also comes with the retainer clip that's in the picture and I didn't see

That could explain y I have the only one I need lol This is all great content to help folks work on clutch issues I greatly appreciate everyone's help

O-rings do not work for this app... I have several o-ring assortment boxes and tried 3-4 different ones. None worked, all tries still leaked often worse than before. It was originally a square rubber seal of just the right thickness.. It needs to stay that type seal. Where to get one? I do not know these days. Check some of the Mopar parts suppliers. Can this type be bought at a local bearing and seal seller? They used to be avail on EBAY. Now? DJ

I would just buy the correct O ring, Buna N should be the proper material. https://www.globaloring.com/blog/how-to-properly-size-an-o-ring-the-first-time-around/ If the cross section falls between two standard thickness, get the larger of the two. But odds are yours just got old and cracked.

Autozone sells the same lines cheaper (at least around here). That is, if you need them now; otherwise - Amazon coil.

Okay, that makes sense. I was just making sure that the o-ring is not included in the gap calculation... The ring needs to be slightly thicker than the groove, in order to make sealing contact. I'll try to find a matching ring or attempt to fabricate one from a soft cork gasket material. I need to check how thick my cork sheets are. I might even be able to re-seal the original ring, but I suspect that it will fall apart as soon as I take it out. 🤣

I used inline tube for the Plaza wagon. Impressed with the fit and ease of installation, the cost was less than the cost at Napa for straight lines.

Thanks for all the responses. The backfire happened on start-up. The "clunk" happened when I turned the power on and off (without starting, but had been running earlier). Anyhow, will take the truck into the shop and see what they say.

Alright , nice find ! …… correct me if I’m wrong , but I think there is only one retainer clip on the left end of that torque shaft , there is nowhere for the RH bushing to go …… I think (-; 👍

You asked how the clearancde was adjusted, if you notice all of Tony's measurements did not include the O ring. If you use the correct o ring then no, it will not affect anything. Too thin, it leaks, too thick then yeah, it affects the clearance because then the stop isn't the metal to metal contact of the cover to the housing, but rather the fat o ring not squishing down enough,

We just had one open about three miles from my house. I keep planning a sojourn to see what it is like but so far haven’t made it. I have been a Farm and Fleet customer for forty years or so so habits are ingrained.

even the sign on the vending machine is correct.....you like it.....

Motor oil prices are pretty even across the board at the chain auto parts stores up here. Walmart tends to be a few cents less expensive, but they usually don't have what I want if it's for one of the old cars. Gotta shop around, Advanced Auto Parts is the only place up here that stocks the Valvoline racing oil that I started using in the D24, and TSC is the only place that stocks SAE 30 that I use in my Beetle, although the SAE 30 is labeled as "all purpose lubricating oil" and not "motor oil". Our TSC is relatively small, and caters to farming and "hobby farming", so all their lubricants tend to be for diesel and machinery requirements, and older engines.

Thank you, I already studied this material in the forum tech. section, here. So, if I understand correctly, the end-play (gap between the rotors and the back plate) is adjusted with either machining the housing or the rotors. Since my current pump is working alright and I just need to replace the plate o-ring, It seems that I can just remove the plate, replace the o-ring, and then put the plate back on. The plate is mounted metal-to-metal, with the o-ring squeezed in between. So I do not believe that re-installing the same plate will affect the gap, right? 🙄