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  2. I’m updated my 50 Plymouth Suburban and it’s dash time. Most of the dash chrome is pitted. I’d like to know how you guys with this issue have felt with it. Can it be replayed? Can it be blasted and painted? Looking for ideas. Thanks in advance TexasWino
  3. I forgot to mention, I also got the transmission, flywheel, starter, etc. Pretty much a complete setup, which is why I wanted to use it. Definitely not a show truck, guy just wants to drive it again in his lifetime Thanks again everyone!! Jim
  4. Actually, Chrysler used Cantrell, Pekin Wood Products and for my '40 wagon, US Body and Forging Company of Frankfort Indiana. US Body & Forging is best known for the thousands of Dodge and Plymouth station wagons built by the firm in their Frankfort and Tell City, Indiana factories through 1950. US Body & Forging was more accurately a trade name used by the USHCO Mfg Co. a Buffalo, New York truck body builder that was formed in 1902 as the U.S. Hame Co. Coachbuilt: Chrysler woodies 1933-1950 Here is the ID plate from the woodie when I got it in 2003 and more recently after I restored it. I was told that it was very rare to find an intact brass build plate still attached to the the wagon. I cleaned it up enough to bring out the details.
  5. Today
  6. Wasn't getting fire from the coil on my 41 Chrysler with vacamatic transmission, I removed the wire from the distributor that goes to the "ignition interrupting switch". That made the coil secondary circuit hot.
  7. Interesting the painted logo is Amoco. How long ago do you suppose it was in service ?
  8. I noticed that once I looked at the parts list description, so I shot them an e-mail to check if they had one for sale. I was also thinking that the vacuum valve that sits on the firewall might have something to do with my problem and I asked them about that unit as well.
  9. I am talking about the rear end vacuum shifter diaphram assembly ....on the rear end.
  10. Unless I am mistaken all you will need to do is get a flywheel from a mid 50's or older 230 to complete the installation. If you have the cars original flywheel, count the number of teeth on it - should be 143 ? If its 143 then a 230 flywheel should do the trick.
  11. Maybe. but what about the black and green wires? Do the black and green wires switch posts too? If so, how does this affect anti-stall, kick-down, and other components for the carb and gyromatic?
  12. No. I rewired it back to what it was before the issue and no spark.
  13. Yep, hadn't thought of that either. That would also explain why the dually's are gone. Maybe they wanted it to be able to go more places than just the highway. Mike
  14. It has 81,000 miles. That's an interesting possibility - I hadn't considered it being used at an airport. Yes, that is a transfer pump, and I'm pretty sure it still works. There is another one on the other side too. I think one of them for sure is for the oil barrels, maybe both. The tanks 'drain' at the rear, low. So gravity appears to be the main method of getting fuel out of the main tanks. Mike
  15. 9 Foot Box, Thanks for getting back to me and with a answer to my question..
  16. Thank you Dodgeb4ya. I will check out AMS Obsolete and if that doesn't fix the issue, I will move to the vacuum canister on the rear end to see if that doesn't do the trick.
  17. 1948 dodge driver side hood latch View Advert I am looking for a butterfly hood latch for a 1948 d24 sedan driver's side. Please let me know if there are any available. Thank you Advertiser jtrepasso Date 04/09/2020 Price Category Individual Member Classified Wanted Ad  
  18. Time Left: 29 days and 21 hours

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    I am looking for a butterfly hood latch for a 1948 d24 sedan driver's side. Please let me know if there are any available. Thank you


    San Diego , California - US

  19. Your Gyro-Matic has an interrupter switch, which momentarily grounds the distributor when the transmission is shifting gears. Maybe the interrupter switch is always closed, or the circuit is otherwise.grounded. It would help to look the transmission shifting diagrams in the shop manual, to see the function of the interrupter switch and its related wiring.
  20. Do you regain spark if you unhook the black and green wires? If so you'll know the issue is in the tranny circuit. Stuck kick down switch, shorted solenoid....etc. likely something causing the coil to remain grounded.
  21. I understand that some states required renumbering and most prohibited it. My first flattie turned out to have defaced numbers, as it was probably stolen before it ended up in my P15. I trashed a perfectly good block 20 years ago, because, to me, the one thing worse than non-matching numbers is bad numbers. I literally lifted it and smashed it on a curb to relieve my anger at being sold a car with bad numbers. Fortunately my frame numbers were good and matched the line production numbers I found under the front fender. Those numbers were on the drivers side of the cowl, behind the left fender, and also found inside by the dome light at the top of the left B pillar.
  22. The coupling is not the same as the transmission. The transmission takes the 10 weight oil, instead of the usual gearbox oil. There are several threads about the fluid for the coupling. The closest is hydraulic equipment oil, such as by Tractor Supply Co. Someone else can chime in.
  23. I have a 38 Plymouth car. It originally had a 23" engine. The previous owner had a 1954 25" long 228 ci engine installed. The rad was moved ahead a couple inches. A slightly smaller sized rad was used, as the nose tapers smaller as you move forward. That engine you bought is likely just like all the earlier L6 mopar engines before it. My understanding is your bell housing and tranny will bolt up to it. I am not well versed in the topic but see the results in my car. Was the original '39 engine a 201ci? If so, the '39 carb may be a little undersized for the '60 engine. The '60 carb would probably have an auto choke and high idle system compared to the 39 carb. It had a manual choke and high idle throttle cable. My point being the original throttle linkage may be easier to use with the '39 carb. However you may get better performance from the '60 carb on the '60 engine. Depending on the brand of each carb, some body and linkage parts may be inter-changeable between the two. If the 60 engine you bought is a good runner, and you aren't trying to win a concours show with the truck, I'd move ahead to install it. The '60 engine will have more HP and torque too.
  24. Well it ought to fit generally speaking, since your Plymouth should have had a 23" flattie in it. However I am not well versed enough in the finer points of the evolution of the 23" flathead to know for sure what maybe different. If you have the original engine then it can be useful when swapping.
  25. Todd, It appears that the first picture, that didn't turn sideways, is more of a square format. Whereas the second one, that did turn, is a regular rectangular format. When using the standard "Photo" setting on my phone I try to always hold it horizontal with the camera lens on the upper left side. I don't have issues with the pictures flipping that way. Vertical will almost always turn them sideways. And if you do horizontal with the camera lens to the lower right the pics will turn upside down on the computer. I don't use the "Square" setting enough to have a frame of reference. But it appears that you used that setting for the first pic, which may be why it didn't turn. That's my experience, and theory anyway...
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