Plymouthy Adams

well, .008 is within factory specs..just at the upper end..you can ride as is..and monitor this and address should it change...or go the added step to reduce this now while you are working this issue. The problem with many values and ideas expressed here is they do not reflect the values and standards of the engineers and it was well known, Chrysler aligned the company with the best engineers out there. Some folks just like to yell out, close enough and throw in the towel as it may be labor intensive.

remember this, there are guidelines for tires replacement based on age...there is NO MANDATE.....repsonisbily of operation and safety falls on the owner. I miss Pep Boys as I bought local from them so finding tires can be a problem. The biggest issue is I do my own mounting and balancing for my own personal reasons. The big chain store tires sales in this area WILL NOT sell out the door tires. They do the mount and balance and or not sell. They make all their profits in the bay...not on the retail price of the tire so Not part of this equation. What is stated by Greg is true that tires currently available are ST prefixed and when asking/buying by size are the tires that first show up on return, you must shop by vehicle to get correct application from most websites, whereas for us with these older cars running modern tires, you will not find a listing. For me, if I want a passenger tire for an older application I find a modern vehicle of approximate weight and such that come stock with the tire size I am interested in and then you will get tailored listing for what brands are available. THEN you can search for that tire by brand and tire model name/number for your better prices if you wish. I am sure the majority of the folks here know and do just this. But in the big box stores, majority of customers in the tire market drive late model and let the retailer do the rest.....base question to most of these folks is simply, what mileage or price range you wish to buy?

tires are a limited life commodity....they subject to lots of abuse....kept inside out of the harsh direct sunlight they fare pretty well on the collector/hobby cars with limited use. At age 32 years I replaced a set with zero cracking on sidewall or between the treads....they still looked great, but they did fail by way of bulge with belt separation but yet, the rubber never split. There are tell tell signs of most all radials going south. Never had a tire yet other than a set of Goodyears fail without prior indicator that is easily detected and if you attend it when it 'tells' you likely never to have a road use issue.

you may be onto something Sniper, I am going to say a rolling wheel gathers no red paint.....

I use the in my opinion a lot because most of my unsolicited comments are just that, an opinion and in no manner saying good bad or indifferent....but just as I see it. The fact I will then state the whys and wherefores of my opinion is to say that it is not just a whim or silly notion and give some background, color and size ratio etc...technically I could care less one way or the other what anyone chooses to do as it is not my car no more than if a person likes or dislikes what I do with mine. Big hobby folks, I will admit at one time it would rankle me see what some folks may do...but hard lesson to learn is JUST NOT MY BUSINESS....the red wheels, there is NO WAIVER here......lol

IT ALL FALLS ON DEAF EARS proper red matching the red on the car, primary or secondary color is not much an issue....only when the wheels are so drastically different than the body color does it scream out 'look at me' ....'look at me' and the car is now totally secondary to the wheels.....NOW I WILL admit that some cars could use these red wheels so folks may not focus on the car body/paint or lack thereof, guess there are always exception to the rules....I have one car recently purchased with red wheels, they are awful looking on the car and the car has been hid in the barn like the proverbial ugly duckling until alternate wheels arrive...thankfully the wheels have been located and be delivered from way up snow country way in a month or so. The replacement wheels I picked out are factory steel wheels but low production numbers and not very common as the second series and restyled units that while nice, is not the look I want.....holding out for the first series wheels.

this is in line to big aux lights go better with big standard lamps.....you have the opportunity to make a fellow hobbyist happy, line your pockets and do your car justice at the same time...but again...just my opinion.....this guy needs to lose the whore red wheels and go with body color either primary or secondary color will look better than this stark red.....again my opinion.....nothing says you cannot paint a car ugly....lol

On the same thinking as Todd, personally the Trippe lights in my opinion should be held in reserve for a car a bit larger....but again, just my opinion. They overshadow the regular lights....whereas the smaller units appear as a highlight and while attractive, do no command all the attention when viewed.

DON'T FEED THE BEARS looks like Boo-Boo has grown up

or some oil drenched fish and chips and a lukewarm lager......lol PS I do have a few registered Brit cars in captavity and double that in projects.......too much stuff too little time.

many folks are hoping by asking that there will be a step by step process whereas start with step 1 and at step 27 start the car and drive off....while you can get close with some more popular models and such....not so common on the Mopar side. This is why I always recommend the person get into the nuts and bolts comparing what he has and where he wants to go, tape measure, pencil and paper and proceed from there. IF there is a segment where he may need guidance, the come here for x engine x body x method to overcome an obstacle. There is absolutely nothing hard about doing swaps....there is however a time involved commitment to finish and stay focused, avoidance of cutting corners, safety at every level and the skill level to use the tools necessary for each task given the man has the needed tools to begin with. Farming out, will get you around specialty tools but will hit the wallet with a pretty good impact for the most part. AND the final advise I will supply, get to know your local rodders/builders and express your build concerns there, you will get tons of ideas and maybe a few offers to help with x segments.

Well, am sure there have been a number of successful and appropriate engines swapped and to be honest with you, if not a Mopar engine I discount the thread and never read no follow as the build has gone in a direction not to my liking. I have seen a number of underpowered swaps made, seen more than I care to mention of started project that were never completed. Not saying it is wrong, just wrong for me. I can state that I have a couple here that are all Mopar in the build but a tad more involved over that of just engine and transmission change. Lot deeper than majority of folks are willing to go with the complete modern Electonics packaged installed. There are retrofit harnesses out there for a few different powerplants that are plug and play but these are also come at a premium cost. Nothing hard about the retro fit, tine consuming and will require not only time from you, but proper tools and space to do the task. From there, just a manner of what level you wish to work toward for the end product. My only advice is to study what you have on hand to swap, plan to buy and swap, draw up a plan of attack, stick to it and remember, failure is not an option. Get out your tape measure and verify you can physically locate this or than where needed for it is a FACT, one mod usually will lead to two or more supporting mods.

not all 54's had a 230, the 230 was introduced alongside the 218. As you do not have the stock block to denote the diamond stamp, unless you are sure it was an automatic, the 230 could be a myth. The 230 was stock 55 forward to end of Plymouth flathead production. As for installing any other engine, there is really not a bolt on kit, there are some items sold here and there for folks that do not fabricate their own parts and force to 'buy and bolt' this also is usually not found in a ONE STOP SHOP

you will either repair the broken studs on the center covers and the trim itself as they are welded on the stainless steel or get luck and find some at a yard or swap meet or post a want ad here. Drilling these out and tapping them and installing bolts from the rear is what I did on a couple of mine that had issue. It is not hard, just got to have the tools and a bit of time and desire to do the task. As for the ones that do slip into the trim piece, generic cut to size clips are quick and easy here also.

This has been done, and it was posted appropriately for April 1st also on a LBC forum.... I would have bought some but I know my car was built early morning and they could not say if or if not morning or evening air in the can.....