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Can someone tell me how to properly step by step bleed a brake system?

I have tried to bleed my brakes by going from one cylindar to the next giving each cylindar about 7 pumps and then fill the M.S. and go to the next. After I am finished, my brake pedal easily goes to the floor and I have some brake movement, but for instance, on the back, only the top cylindar moves, not the bottom.

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It is a two person job to do it by pumping on the brake pedal: One person gently presses the pedal to the floor and holds it there while the second person opens and closes the wheel cylinder bleed screw. It sounds like you are trying to do this by yourself.

There are instructions both in the archives of this forum and elsewhere on how to make a pressure bleeder. With that you can bleed the brakes by yourself.

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you can so it by yourself with a length of tubing and a container to catch the released fluid. I use a 1 ct mason style jar with a wire hanger fashioned arount ist neck to hang it.

Fill the MC, put some clean brake fluid in the jar zip tie a nut or washer to one end of a piece 3ft clear tubing that fits tightly on the bleed nipple. place the weighted end in the container and make sure the end is submerged in the fluid. loosen the bleed nipple and fit the other end of the tubing over the nipple. Now get up in the car and slowly push the pedal to the floor.

(well some folks will stop here and tell you to put a block of wood on the floor or on the pedal so the MC piston does not travel its full length)

If it is nice and quiet, you will be able to hear the fluid releasing from the wheel cylinder, and going into the container. The fluid in the container will prevent air from going back up the system as you slowly release the pedal and repeat. If you have to you can kinda hang out the door and observe the fluid moving through the tube. When you ca hear and see no mobe bubbles, tighten the bleeder, move the set up to the next wheel and start over (check the MC res to assure it is still full) Start with the pass side rear and work toward the mc furthest to the closest. fronts do the lowers then teh uppers.

When finished, make sure you leave some air space in the MC, 1/4 inch or so to allow for expansion.

I have been doing mine this way for years and it has never let me down.

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Here's the process I use:

1. Wife gets behind the wheel.

2. Husband gets under the car with the wrench.

3. Husband yells "OKAY"

4. Wife steps on brake.

5. Husband opens bleeder until it squirts him in the face.

6. Husband moves to other side and repeats entire process.

Works great for me. Of course, I too dumb to know of a better method!

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Can someone tell me how to properly step by step bleed a brake system?

I have tried to bleed my brakes by going from one cylindar to the next giving each cylindar about 7 pumps and then fill the M.S. and go to the next. After I am finished, my brake pedal easily goes to the floor and I have some brake movement, but for instance, on the back, only the top cylindar moves, not the bottom.

Do you have the brake drums mounted and the brake shoes adjusted to the drums? How do you know the the top cylinder moves and not the bottom?

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I have the drums off the back so I can watch what the cylindars are doing. I adjusted everything before I started. I have been trying to fix so many leaks you wouldn't belive it, so I have tried bleeding the brakes several times now. I do have someone helping, but when I am done, I feel I should have a lot more pressure on the pedal and should not be able to push it right to the floor. This is why I feel something is not right.

I'm now trying to figure out why those bottom cylindars are not moving. Should you be able to easily push the brake pedal to the floor when it's all said and done?

Aaron

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I have the drums off the back so I can watch what the cylindars are doing. I adjusted everything before I started. I have been trying to fix so many leaks you wouldn't belive it, so I have tried bleeding the brakes several times now. I do have someone helping, but when I am done, I feel I should have a lot more pressure on the pedal and should not be able to push it right to the floor. This is why I feel something is not right.

I'm now trying to figure out why those bottom cylindars are not moving. Should you be able to easily push the brake pedal to the floor when it's all said and done?

Aaron

In order to bleed your brakes you must have the drums installed. The pedal pressure comes from the shoes making contact with the drums. Without the drums you will blow the seals out of the wheel cylinders when you push the pedal. Until all leaks are repaired you will not be able to correctly bleed your brakes. How did you adjust your brakes?

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I adjusted the brakes with the drums on and I'm pretty sure I have all the leaks fixed.

Had leaks from where the brass fitting goes into the top rear cylindar and it was running down the inside of the brake plate, so that is why I have the drums off so I can watch and make sure those leaks are fixed.

The shoes don't look like they are being pushed anywhere near far enough to potentially blow the seals, but I will install the drums and try bleeding again.

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Ok I guess I was wrong, I still have a darn leak on this fitting that goes to the bottom of the master cylindar! I have tried really tightening on it, have tried teflon tape, any other ideas? it is a slow leak...

It leaks from the threads that go into the master cylindar.

post-2003-13585347597472_thumb.jpg

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Brass fittings should not be used in a hydraulic brake system. Also all the fittings used on brake lines require a steel double flare male and a female flare fitting. It appears the brass fitting you pictured is not the correct fitting to use. Teflon tape or other pipe dope is not required on flare fittings. It is only required on tapered pipe fittings. I suggest you seek outside help on this project as brakes are more important than a running engine.

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Alot of the original fittings for my hydraulic system are brass fittings. When I checked out NAPA's hydraulic brake fittings, they were all brass.

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I have been using NAPA fittings for years and as far as i remember they are brass and have not had a problem with them.

If you are have the leak at the same fitting I would change the fitting and the line one may be damaged at the threads or flared end As Don C said brakes are important and with a single master cylinder if one line fails you have no brakes.

Ed

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I am confussed, my heavier trucks, which I just bled my semi today, using the Step by step method with the wife only has one cylinder on top. I can't remember without looking but I thought my B1B only has one cylinder per wheel. Wht are you guys saying top & bottom?

Todd B

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I have a 48' B1B and the rear wheels has 2 cylindars each, one on top and one on bottom that runs each shoe. I'm guessing other years have the same?

Back to the brass fittings, I picked up a new one today and installed it under the master cylindar and so far she is dry. Will have to check it in a day and see if it stays that way.

post-2003-13585347602658_thumb.jpg

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Yes, Dodge trucks have many brass fuittiungs in the brake circuuitry, But Don uis correct in saying that no one should ever even think of using brass tubing on hydraulic brake systems. Only approved steel line shoud ever be used for this purpose. AND only factory-type fittings or double flare fittings may be used on steel lines.

Mr. Forrest, if you are attempting to bleed your brakes with the rear drums off, and have not blown your rear wheel cylinders, it is because either your master cylinder is shot or you have large quantties of air trappd in the system.

I am lazy and hate to bleed brakes via the two-man procedure - besides, I am usually working alone without other help nearby. I took the cap from my old master cylinder and drilled a hole in it, then threaded it to accept a barbed tubing fitting. I filled the master cylinder on my new, dry system, and hooked my EMPTY garden sprayer up to the top of the master cylinder. Pumped up a few pounds of air pressure on the sprayer bottle, then began bleeding each wheel cylinder. Once fluid came out the bleeder screws, I shut each one off, then unhooked the sprayer bottle and refilled the master cylinder. Did this three times, and I have a perfect, rock-hard pedal, and no puddles on the floor. Couldn't be easier. AND I did not contaminate my old garden sprayer.

I'm happy.:)

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I had to change that system in my B3-B,because we don't have spare parts(1 1/8"cups).I put only one top rear cylinder in each wheel.:cool:

You can't get the 1 1/8" brake cylinder piston cups? They are available over the counter at my local "good auto supply". CarQuest number R116.

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