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Water Distribution Tube R & R


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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I finally got around to digging out what I made and snapping a pic.

I used a small slide hammer puller that uses sheet metal screws (Matco SP80). I use it for pulling seals and etc when you can't get behind them. The end is threaded with standard 3/8-16 thread. I went to the hardware store and picked up a 3/8 sleeve nut and a J bolt. I cut J bolt a little shorter on the hook side and ground it thin enough to go up into the narrow part of the tube. It hooked into the hole and I gave it several good smacks with the slide hammer before it started to move. I thought I was going to rip through the metal in front of the tube slot before it moved. As you can see, the J bolt starting bending too. Once it started moving it came out rather easy.

P1290233.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
waterdis.jpgI made a hook form some steel rod and used a couple of pieces of 2x2 lumber and levered it out, as mentioned it comes out easy when it starts moving. My dist tube was brass and in good shape, but was full of crud the last 6 to 8 inches.
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  • 1 month later...

Found this unique puller style and thought I would share with you guys. This explanation is second hand so I hope it makes sense to you guys. Here it is:

I started by crushing the tube into a pancake at the end, then drilling

a hole in sideways. Then used a steel cable tied to a 3/4" threaded

rod. Used a nut to do the pulling and held the rod from turning with

two nuts jammed together.

The 2 nuts that are together are held to hold the rod while you turn the other nut to pull on the cable. Some welding of the nut to the bar would have the same effect.

post-32-13585345237669_thumb.jpg

post-32-13585345238361_thumb.jpg

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  • 1 year later...

I pulled my water distribution tube in 2006 as part of cleaning up my flathead and a frame off resto. I'm finally starting to reassemble. The far end of the tube is very narrow and was full of rust and gunk from 55 years. I have a new tube to go back in but before I re-install I want to make sure I have done everything possible to maximize the water flow beyond the tube, short of tearing down the block. What is the best way to clean out the water circulation cavities in the block. Are the channels large or small, and will a water flush do the job, or do I need to insert a pressure nozzle or a wire brush.

Anyone been here?

Jim in Dallas

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Jim:

Boy have I been there! If you are not going to completely dissassemble that block and have it tanked which is the best way you will need to remove all the frost plugs and dig all the sludge out of the water jacket. I would strongly urge you to consider having the whole thing tanked. It'll cost a set of gaskets and cam bearings if they use a caustic cleaner but it will be worth it.

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  • 4 months later...
  • 8 months later...
  • 4 years later...

I am very lucky, as my water distribution tube loosened with minimal difficulty. I used a crotchet hook!

 

Lucky duck!

 

I wailed on mine with a steel hook on a 2lb slide hammer & it doesn't budge.

 

I'll maybe have to cut it up.

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  • 11 months later...
  • 2 months later...

Where can you buy the tube?

 

WDT

 

 Vintage Power Wagon has them..... link above.

 

Bottom of page 15.

 

48D

Edited by 48dodger
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  • 3 months later...

I just sat the block on the ground, bolted the head and water pump on (only to seal the water jackets) the filled it. No electric charge or nothing. Flushed it twice in a week. It's fine if you get the water to molasses ratio right. 20:1 I think it is 20 parts water 1 molasses. Cleans the water jackets up good to! Just don't leave it in there for a month tho. That can cause trouble

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P10? Since the water in a good block, cannot get to the oil or the combustion chambers, cuuld that cleaning method could be done to an engine that is in the vehical?

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