Is it feasible to do a valve job without removing the engine ?

[Guest Paul Vass]

I'm looking to find out the feasibility of doing a valve job on a B2G truck without taking out the engine. I have heard that it can be done fairly easily, but it looks to me like it would be hard to reach the valves even after the side covers on the engine block are removed. It looks like I would have to remove the passenger side fender and then the manifold to have any chance of getting in there. Removal of the head will not be a problem. Has anyone done this already? Any tips or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Paul Vass

[Norm's Coupe]

If you mean replacing the valves, you probably would have to remove the manifolds. However, if you mean grinding the valves (valve job too), that can be done with the manifolds on the engine.

[Phil Martin]

Remove the inner fender on passenger side ad you can take sidecovers off.

[Merle Coggins]

If you mean replacing the valves' date=' you probably would have to remove the manifolds. However, if you mean grinding the valves (valve job too), that can be done with the manifolds on the engine.[/quote']

Norm, wouldn't you have to remove the valves to grind them?

Removing the manifolds will probably make the whole job easier in the long run.

Also, I agree with Phil. Remove the inner fender, and probably that wheel, and you can crawl up inside the fender to the engine.

merle

[Norm's Coupe]

Norm, wouldn't you have to remove the valves to grind them?

Removing the manifolds will probably make the whole job easier in the long run.

Also, I agree with Phil. Remove the inner fender, and probably that wheel, and you can crawl up inside the fender to the engine.

merle

Not just to grind them. I don't have one, but there is a tool you just sit on top of the valve to grind them down while still in the engine. The owner of a service garage, is who was doing most of the internal work on my engine during the rebuild. We did most of it in my garage at home. When we were looking at the engine and discussing what to do, he ground one or two of the valves using the tool in my garage. Engine and valves were still in the car. Valves still didn't look to good after grinding though so that's about when I said we'll pull it and do the whole thing.

[MBF]

That tool you're talking about is to grind the valve seats and relies on the valve guides being true as the mandrel fits down in the guide to keep the grinding stone perpendicular to the head surface. The valves are removed (can be done w the manifold still on) and ground on valve grinder to match the angle(s) of the valve seat, and then lapped in prior to reinstalling the springs. Mike

[Don Coatney]

Not just to grind them. I don't have one' date=' but there is a tool you just sit on top of the valve to grind them down while still in the engine. The owner of Kusch Service, Milwaukee is who was doing most of the internal work on my engine during the rebuild. We did most of it in my garage at home. When we were looking at the engine and discussing what to do, he ground one or two of the valves using the tool in my garage. Engine and valves were still in the car. Valves still didn't look to good after grinding though so that's about when I said we'll pull it and do the whole thing.[/quote']

Norm;

Can you splain this tool a bit more. I dont understand how a tool that sits on top of a valve can grind the working end of a valve (bottom side). I also dont see how a valve lapping tool as pictured below can turn a valve unless the valve keepers and valve spring are removed. Valve lapping and valve grinding are not the same operation.

[Don Coatney]

That tool you're talking about is to grind the valve seats and relies on the valve guides being true as the mandrel fits down in the guide to keep the grinding stone perpendicular to the head surface. The valves are removed (can be done w the manifold still on) and ground on valve grinder to match the angle(s) of the valve seat, and then lapped in prior to reinstalling the springs. Mike

Mike;

Pictured is a valve seat cutter (not a grinder) that uses the valve guides to center the tool. This cutter works well on the intake valve seats as they are soft. It will not work on the hardened exhaust valve seats. A grinder is required for the exhaust valve seats.

[MBF]

I've got a powered Milwaukee seat grinder that uses a heavy duty drill like powerhead to drive angled stones to grind valve seats. I've used it many times on smaller engines, and once on a flathead 6. There is a tool to shape the various stones to make sure the seat angle is consistent and correct-and this has to be done periodically while grinding the seat. With the other tool, the valve is mounted in a jig and while being manually spun with a crank (obviously removed from the head) a cutting stone is moved across the face at a preset angle to shape the valve face to match that of the seat. After these operations, the valve is then lapped in with either a dowel, or the crank type tool in your photo using a grinding compound. I think these tools were designed for smaller engines, but with patience can be used to do multiple cylinder engines. Mike

[Guest Paul Vass]

Thanks to everyone for your input on doing a valve job without removing the engine. I will not know for sure whether grinding alone will do the job until I can open up the engine and get a better look at the situation. At least I know how to get started.

[grey beard]

Paul,

I ground my valves with the engine in the chassis, nose and manifold both off. I took my valves to the local shop and had them ground professionally - all were in fine shape. Then I knurled the valve guides and reamed them back to original specs. This knurling operation centered the seat grinding tool for that operation. All my guides knurled fine and were reamed back to original i.d. except for the front exhaust valve. This valve runs hottest of all the valves due to kits position in the block and the fact that it receives the least oil splash from the crankcase. This guide I replaced with a new one, and then knurled and reamed it as well, so they'd all lubricate the same.

In the Tech tips section of this web site is an excellent artifle that tells you how to replace guides by driving them downward and snapping them off with a hammer. Works like a charm. Once my guides were back to standard size, I used an old Sioux kit similar to the tool Don C showed that utilized a small abrasive disc on a 45 degree mandrel to polish the seats before they were finally lapped to a nice thin contact area in the middle of the valve seat.

My experience tells me that it is nearly impossible to remove the inner fender on a Pilothouse truck with the fender proper still in place. Cars have an inner panel that is removable but trucks have no such feature. For my money, it would be easier and quicker to pull the entire fender assembly. AND by all means drop the manifold. It will allow you to see what you are doing on reassembly and the adjustment procedure.

By the bye, since adjusting these valves hot is not a possiblility for me with numb, diabetic hands and poor eyesight, I set mine four thousandths wider than specs with them cold and at room temperature. The engine sounds perfect - you can just hear the slightest amount of valve noise - exactly what I wanted. If you err when making this adjustment, always err in the diretion of too loose, else you run the risk of burnt valves. JMHO

Good luck