Jeff Ivan Posted September 22, 2007 Report Share Posted September 22, 2007 I bought on ebay ,for a very reasonable price, an oil filter housing from supposedly a 1946-48 Plymouth. I was tipped off to this item by a very kind,helpful, and alert member of this forum= Thanks again Bob T! This uses the replaceable filter cartridge that is readily available, the sealed canister on my 1951 Plymouth Cranbrook is no longer available new, and ebay prices are usually $50 and up. I will install it after I get it cleaned up and painted. My question, more like a verification, Does the top oil line on my present filter attach to the top fitting on the backside at the bracket of the other one? And I assume the bottom lines are both the return lines? I laid the housing that I just got on top of my current filter to try to show in the photo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted September 22, 2007 Report Share Posted September 22, 2007 I believe there was a previous debate over this. On mine the bottom fitting feeds into the center tube and is the inlet. The outlet is on the outside towards the top of the canister. Aparently others are different. On mine it was stampped next to the fittings "IN' & "OUT". By the way, is that Pabst can around your coil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Ivan Posted September 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2007 The fella I bought the filter housing from packed it with the old filter still in it, and shipped it Parcel Post. I was kind of happy he did because the old Purolator number was easy to cross reference to a current WIX number.The box was totally oil stained, he left the lines on it and did not plug them. The woman at the counter at the Post Office brought it out from the back room , this oily stained cardboard box, with a weird look on her face. She said she had no idea what it was, and she hoped it was not perishable. I told her I knew what it was (did not tell her tho), I just said that it was about 60 years old and probably not spoiled yet. Here is a photo of the old Purolator filter and the CarQuest/WIX replacement # 85100. Made in USA and looks like it has a lot more holes in it too. Cost with tax $11.40. Another small update to a long term driveable fixxer-upper car! =Jeff= Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normspeed Posted September 22, 2007 Report Share Posted September 22, 2007 Jeff here is how my 53 is plumbed. The filter case is marked for in and out. The bottom filter line goes to the fitting just above the relief valve. I ended up replacing my home flared copper lines for some steel brake lines. My flaring technique needs work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Ivan Posted September 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2007 Hi Merle, that makes sense. I guess the inlet line probably would feed thru the bottom into the center tube. Once I take off the bracket and get it cleaned up maybe I will get lucky and they are marked 'in' and 'out'. I'm not even sure which is which on my current set up. I just swapped filters and put them on as they were. I will have to be positively sure of the 'in' and 'out' on the engine block. Oh yeah, that IS a PBR can covering the coil. It is the ONLY thing vaguely resembling "Billet" or "Bling" in my engine compartment, and probably the only aluminum too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Ivan Posted September 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2007 Normspeed, thank you so much for the excellent photo you posted. I hope you don't mind I saved it for future reference. It would be a lot better to mount the housing in the bracket opposite the engine block as you did. Don't know why mine is mounted with the upper fitting at the block side. Thanks again guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Ivan Posted September 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2007 I have been looking thru the original copy Plymouth service manual I have, and now am not sure what to think. Is the filter set up that I plan to install a bypass type? If not, do I need to go to a different pressure relief valve? It's not fun pushing the age of 50! I can't see the side of the engine thru my eyeglasses top or thru the bifocals, and can't see good enough without them either. Maybe I'll pull out the starter. And I burned my arm and hand on the metal cage on the drop lite. Time to buy another fluorescent drop lite to replace the one I crushed lowering the tractor's snowplow on it last year. I give up for now, I probably won't get this installed for a couple more weekends anyhow. I think I'll just go for a dusk time drive now, this car speaks to me, some of you guys know how that is, we'll figure it out together! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grey beard Posted September 23, 2007 Report Share Posted September 23, 2007 I believe there may be a mite of confusion on this thread. The oil enters the filter from the oil galley that runs the length of the block. This is the saje galley that the oil pressure gauge is connected to, a little further towards the front - same oil passage. Therefore the oil pressure entering the filter comes from this fitting. The filtered oil returns to the sump via the fitting just above the pressure regulator valve. I'm not shure which of the two filter fittings are marked "in" and "out" but the pressure comes from the galley and returns at the regulator. Mine is plumbed with the pressure entering at the top. I doubt it matters which way the oil flows inside the filter as long as it makes the trip. JMHO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billwillard Posted September 23, 2007 Report Share Posted September 23, 2007 Bottom line on filter to bottom hole in block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lou Earle Posted September 23, 2007 Report Share Posted September 23, 2007 As I understand it the lower hole/line in the cannister is the return line and the upper is the intake line to the filter. the lower line is blocked until about25- 30 pounds of oil pressure is reached then it opens and oil flows back into crankcase from the filter and oil then flows into the cannister. the valve acts as a gate to the return. I got tired of messing with all that and for 15 bucks did this on my 48 taxi hot rod: and this on my 48 Dodge Also note on first pic that I used the new easy bend brake line - it is the greatest thing since??? So easy to use. Mounting on the firewall makes it so much easier to work on. Lou Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodscavenger Posted October 11, 2007 Report Share Posted October 11, 2007 Is that a mod to a spin on filter? How did you do it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted October 11, 2007 Report Share Posted October 11, 2007 Lets think about flow and gravity. Your oil pump pts your oil under pressure. Oil under pressure will be forced to flow through the filter there by cleaning it. where do you want your clean oil after the engine is shut off, in the canister between the filter and the canister, or in the center of the filter so it can deain back intot he engine with the assistance of gravity? If plumbed the other way no doubt it will work as the pressure will force the oil throughthe filter either way but any unfilltered oil left int he center will flow back into the cranckase. Probably not a big deal since its only a half pint or so but sill would be carrying what ever dirt is in it. So under pressure the oil should flow intot he body of the canister be forced throught he filter element into the center cavety of the elemant, and then be allowed drain back by gravity all nice and clean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 11, 2007 Report Share Posted October 11, 2007 Hope the Imperial Club folks don't mind the link..it is accessable to all.. Read the whole story here.. http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/015/Page01.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobT-47P15 Posted October 11, 2007 Report Share Posted October 11, 2007 The bottom one goes right down to a handy connecting port.....this is a 1957 model engine. May be different from some others. [/img] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldmopar Posted October 11, 2007 Report Share Posted October 11, 2007 Is that a mod to a spin on filter? How did you do it? When I posted this photo of the filter setup in my 52 Plymouth I think it was Norm who said the filter setup was avaiable from catalogs like speedway Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodscavenger Posted October 18, 2007 Report Share Posted October 18, 2007 That's going in my notebook for a later swap. Thanks for the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanadianD25 Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 How do you open the original canister? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 you don;t they were meant to be throw aways. But they are no longer produced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayfarer Posted June 26, 2013 Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 With regards to oil flow, if you feed to the center of the filter you will have a small amount of surface area for the oil to enter and, on old/dirty engines, a high probability of plugged media. Feeding to the exterior provides many times more surface area to capture junk. Additionally, if you swap to a spin-on, oil may not flow in reverse direction due to design. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bingster Posted October 9, 2017 Report Share Posted October 9, 2017 (edited) I'm opening up this thread because I am installing my oil filter after seven years. First, the bracket. I haven't seen that type of oil filter attachment bracket. There seems to be something extra on the top for something else to attach. Then, I have two unidentified fittings here. I doubt either one belong into filter canister. Anybody know where they belong? Edited October 9, 2017 by Bingster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted October 9, 2017 Report Share Posted October 9, 2017 (edited) The piece on the right looks like a briggs and Stratton foam air filter part 60's thru 70's 2-8 HP engines. Edited October 9, 2017 by Dodgeb4ya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bingster Posted October 9, 2017 Report Share Posted October 9, 2017 Yeah, I see that. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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