Truck Master Heater wiring question and over due update

[minicooper]

I haven't posted on the site for about two years, having had a series of disappointments on the progress of the truck build. Last post was about a stuck/bent valve stem, on my 52 B3C 116, after a fresh engine rebuild. I pulled the engine a second time and the machine shop repaired and replaced the bent stem.

 

During the interim 2 years I had to replace all four wheels as they were mixed bolt patterns front and rear, none original and the rear wheels were close to being shot. I couldn't find four original wheels so I put on 4 new 16 inch wheels and put in the Rusty Hope disc conversion kit in the front. A Camary master cylinder fit with little modification for the conversion. 

 

Sitting for two years in the barn, squirrels got into the wiring and pretty much destroyed it. Rewired with a new harness from Rhode Island Wiring Services. I’m keeping the 6 volt system, it works well and I’ve had no issues cranking.

 

I’ve had it on the road (mostly gravel) for 2 weeks now. We’ve been in a drought here so the cab sure fills up with grit after a couple of dusty gravel road miles. After putting some miles on this truck I will need to swap the rear end. The rear that’s on it now isn’t original (hence the different wheel lug pattern rom the above paragraph). I can’t find any model markings except the gear ratio of 2.93, so the original B3C 4-speed bottoms out in higher gears, I can barely make 50 on pavement. It’s also a very narrow axle, I had to put spacers on to keep the inside of the tires from scrubbing the bed.

 

My question to the forum today is about the heater. I’m guessing that the installed Truck Master heater was a dealer installed option not a factory install, so the wiring was not included in the harness design, since it was an option in 1952. I tested the motor and it works and the heater core doesn’t leak. Where should the fan circuit connect to? Wiring diagrams from later models with heaters show a fuse block for the heater fan to connect to. Should it come off the ignition switch or head light circuit? Also, I assume it needs a fuse, but I can’t find the amperage rating on the 6 volt fan motor.

 

Thanks so much,

 

Roland

Chattahoochee Hills, GA

 

 

[Dodgeb4ya]

My truck has the Truck master wired to the long "ACC" stud on the IGN switch. No fuse was used. Original heater installation.

[Merle Coggins]

1 hour ago, minicooper said:

 The rear that’s on it now isn’t original (hence the different wheel lug pattern rom the above paragraph). I can’t find any model markings except the gear ratio of 2.93, so the original B3C 4-speed bottoms out in higher gears, I can barely make 50 on pavement. It’s also a very narrow axle, I had to put spacers on to keep the inside of the tires from scrubbing the bed.

 

If it indeed has a 2.93 gear ratio that isn’t the problem with your speed. 2.93 gears would run at 80 MPH all day long without pushing the engine to high RPM. It would, however, be cause for sluggish acceleration. If 50 MPH is the limit due to limited engine power then it would make sense. 

I’ve heard that Jeep Cherokee axles are a good fit for those trucks. And I think that some Grand Cherokee’s have the 5” lug pattern. Although, if you did the Rusty Hope brake conversion you have 4-1/2” pattern up front. Look for something in the mid 3’s. 

Edited September 29, 2019 by Merle Coggins

[minicooper]

Thanks, I’ll power the heater off the ignition switch. 

 

It it is indeed extremely sluggish on acceleration, very difficult to get it up to 50. I put on 16 in wheels with a dual lug pattern, since the rear is 5 x 5 and the front 4 x 4.5. I didn’t want to have two spares. 

 

-Roland

[ggdad1951]

14 hours ago, minicooper said:

Thanks, I’ll power the heater off the ignition switch. 

 

It it is indeed extremely sluggish on acceleration, very difficult to get it up to 50. I put on 16 in wheels with a dual lug pattern, since the rear is 5 x 5 and the front 4 x 4.5. I didn’t want to have two spares. 

 

-Roland

 

RIWire has the wires you need as well for the heater...I know a guy that sent them originals to copy...

 

glad to have you back!