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replacement solid-state Voltage Regulator available??


Go Fleiter

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Before I converted my amp gauge to a volt gauge, I ran the battery on one side of the amp gauge and everything else off the other.  Amps to the battery swung the gauge positive, amps from the battery swung it negative. 

Edited by Adam H P15 D30
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4 minutes ago, Adam H P15 D30 said:

Before I converted my amp gauge to a volt gauge, I ran the battery on one side of the amp gauge and everything else off the other.  Amps to the battery swung the gauge positive, amps from the battery swung it negative. 

Yes this also how it should be, but why did you change to voltmeter? Was the ammeter to bouncy?

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Just now, Adam H P15 D30 said:

Ammeters are a fire hazard.  Actually having all your loads at one connection point is the biggest fire hazard.

 

Correct. Anything connected to battery without fuse is a hazard.

Ammeter, Brake light switch, cigar lighter, dome light, horns are all un-fused connected to battery. 

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I consider a voltmeter to be more useful for showing battery condition than an ammeter. When the voltmeter indicates a solid 7.2-7.4vdc the alternator is doing its job. 

 

voltmeter.jpg.84ba83af5e5f5b1c3db769b71da43a68.jpg

 

Edited by Sam Buchanan
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With a little work and creativity, a volt meter can be adapted to the ammeter location, needle straight down at battery voltage, moves to the charge side when running.  As long as it is on the charge side, you're over 13v.

post-2787-0-14826900-1431053252_thumb.jpgpost-2787-0-01103500-1431053458_thumb.jpgpost-2787-0-19929600-1431053585_thumb.jpg

Edited by Adam H P15 D30
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Why not have both. Ammeter is great when you get a short, will show a discharge. It's movements can indicate issues.

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5 hours ago, chrysler1941 said:

Correct. Anything connected to battery without fuse is a hazard.

Ammeter, Brake light switch, cigar lighter, dome light, horns are all un-fused connected to battery. 

 

I was concerned about the possibility of smoke escaping so installed a fuse between the alternator and ammeter when the alternator upgrade occurred.

 

alternator.jpg.554c025afa3266103eda658aa76f1cd6.jpg

Edited by Sam Buchanan
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looking for a BIG regulator was not successful.

I only found some for Lucas replacements in GB, too small (20A).

So I will take the 60 A alternator with its included regulator

and its bonus output and leave the old regulator unused in its place.

 

Current drain:

For safety reasons, I disconnect my 3* batteries whenever letting the car for more than a couple of hours.

I don´t trust the old wire harness too much!

 

Shutdown charging:

And I have 3 battery chargers installed , only 1 power plug needs to be plugged in

in my own or the hotel´s garage. It sits under the horns.

The complete unit is easily removable via 1 collective connector and 1 quick fastener if I want take it

out at a car show. (foto)

 

Greetings from Düsseldorf!

Go

 

* 3 Batteries

1.) 6V 115 Ah for the usual car system, was always a problem to start engine, hence the 2nd:
2.) 6V 115 Ah , in series from starter solenoid to starter motor,

   gives 6+6 V and starts always immediately, since 1996 no problem for the 6V starter!

   no charging on route, but lasts more than 3 weeks without charging, not hidden (foto)

3.) 12 V hidden Gel battery with its own hidden12V alternator for GPS ...

 

I love old cars and their character, but not their electrical shortcomings.

And yes, everythig is fused!

 

 

 

PL_Motor-O-ZylKopfLKL.jpg

Ladeger2019-7 KL.jpg

Edited by Go Fleiter
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3 hours ago, Go Fleiter said:

3.) 12 V hidden Gel battery with its own hidden12V alternator for GPS ...

 

Wow. Disconnect the extra battery and hide a 6v Optima. More start power

Is GPS connected as USB? 

USB is only 5 volts and a small china regulator can easily convert 6-7v to 5v. I have such in my cars for phones etc

Edited by chrysler1941
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3 hours ago, Go Fleiter said:

looking for a BIG regulator was not successful.

I only found some for Lucas replacements in GB, too small (20A).

So I will take the 60 A alternator with its included regulator

and its bonus output and leave the old regulator unused in its place.

 

* 3 Batteries

1.) 6V 115 Ah for the usual car system, was always a problem to start engine, hence the 2nd:
2.) 6V 115 Ah , in series from starter solenoid to starter motor,

   gives 6+6 V and starts always immediately, since 1996 no problem for the 6V starter!

   no charging on route, but lasts more than 3 weeks without charging, not hidden (foto)

3.) 12 V hidden Gel battery with its own hidden12V alternator for GPS ...

 

I love old cars and their character, but not their electrical shortcomings.

And yes, everythig is fused!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Install the alternator, remove the extra batteries and associated chargers, and install new, properly-sized battery cables on the one remaining battery (your cables appear to be undersize). Your car will start very nicely!  :)

 

If you are using a battery disconnect switch be sure it has HUGE current carrying capacity otherwise you are probably losing starting current at the disconnect. But.....if everything is fused......why worry with disconnecting the batteries?

 

P.S. Your phone is one of the most full-featured GPS's available......

Edited by Sam Buchanan
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13 hours ago, Sam Buchanan said:

Install the alternator, remove the extra batteries and associated chargers, and install new, properly-sized battery cables on the one remaining battery (your cables appear to be undersize). Your car will start very nicely!  :)

I agree. But for event better start. one must ground the starter. Remove one long bolt and connect cable direct to battery.

Reason, lazy start current has to flow from bell housing, starter mounting bolts, then through two thin long bolts holding starter parts together (resistance), to reach plate holding brushes. Some will travel through starter housing but at these high Amps, current will pick easiest way to travel and these bolts are an uninterrupted flow. If brush plate connected directly to battery, starter spins faster. Try it ?

 

 

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