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adjusting Generator Regulator


DutchEdwin

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I want to adjust my Generator Regulator. The output is only 6.2V. It should be 7.2V - 7.5V when running at 30mph equivalent engine speed.

I looked in the shop manual on how to do it.

First I sanded the contact points with polish paper, grain 1000.

Setting the points: Looking at the spec's I know I have to set the air gap between the breakerpoints to 0.048 - 0.052" for the current and voltage regulator. However there is an other spec, the contact point gap being 0,015". Can anyone tell me where this gap should be set?

If this is the gap between the underside of the contact point and the top of the coil when the armature os pushed down, how can I adjust this? in my regulator it is 0.09".

I found in youtube this video from Chysler masterclass https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zRk1xbJIBcY

In this video there is no setting of the contact point gap, only the air gap.

 

This is what is mentioned in the shop manual:

2. CHECKING CURRENT AND VOLTAGE REGULATOR
AIR GAPS—Use the pin type gauge
(from Kit C-828) which measures from .048 to .052
inch. Insert gauge on point side of air gap and next
to armature stop pin with the contact points just
separating. See Figure 15.
3. ADJUSTING CURRENT AND VOLTAGE AIR
GAPS—Loosen the bracket screws and raise or
lower the contact point brackets until the desired
clearance is obtained. Tighten these screws securely
after adjustment is made. With the armature
held down so that the stop rivet rests on the magnet
core, the point gap should be .015 inch when
checked with a feeler gauge.

 

Are there special attention points I should take care of, other then break the connection to the battery while doing this?

regulator.jpg

Edited by DutchEdwin
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Make  sure the VR is an original factory Autolite equipment regulator...

Replacement regulators can be different to adjust and or not adjustable..and

Also have you grounded the REG field terminal while running above idle to make sure its a regulator issue and not a generator issue..?

With the field terminal grounded and the engine revved up a bit the amp gauge if your car has one will max out . If the gauge does not show a Max charge or the light won't go out prbably a generator or wiring issue.

A 6 volt battery sitting fully charged will read about 6.4 volts. 7.2 running as you know.

Just some pre-checks to do.?

 

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16 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

Make  sure the VR is an original factory Autolite equipment regulator...

Replacement regulators can be different to adjust and or not adjustable..and

Also have you grounded the REG field terminal while running above idle to make sure its a regulator issue and not a generator issue..?

With the field terminal grounded and the engine revved up a bit the amp gauge if your car has one will max out . If the gauge does not show a Max charge or the light won't go out prbably a generator or wiring issue.

A 6 volt battery sitting fully charged will read about 6.4 volts. 7.2 running as you know.

Just some pre-checks to do.?

 

Thanks for the advice. Now I have a new regulator in the car, not working eighter. So I'm adjusting the original one.

I did ground the generator, however I do not remember if I revved up the engine. Doing that again tomorrow!

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It is a nice way to go Sam, but it is supposed to be black. This will cost you points at a show ?.

I stick to the old generator and regulator. I like the fuzzeling around with the old technique and keep my car as original as possible. My battery however is a Optima Yellow top. Now the car starts, even when the battery is older then 2 years.

 

Optima adviced to use the Yellow top instead of the Red top because I do not use my car often. The Yellow Top is better resistant for the long time not being in use then the redtop. The delivered current is still much more then a stand battery can deliver.

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3 hours ago, DutchEdwin said:

It is a nice way to go Sam, but it is supposed to be black. This will cost you points at a show ?.

I stick to the old generator and regulator. I like the fuzzeling around with the old technique and keep my car as original as possible. My battery however is a Optima Yellow top. Now the car starts, even when the battery is older then 2 years.

 

Optima adviced to use the Yellow top instead of the Red top because I do not use my car often. The Yellow Top is better resistant for the long time not being in use then the redtop. The delivered current is still much more then a stand battery can deliver.

Ups qutoed the wrong post  ?

Edited by chrysler1941
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7 hours ago, Sam Buchanan said:

I found a great way to stabilize the erratic charging current in my P15 and enhance longterm reliability at the same time. I realize this solution isn't for everyone.....but you can see it in the photo below.  :)

 

battery-cables.jpg.170835f77eef60de30c32a996c568276.jpg

 

So you are grounding engine through skinny bolt that goes in water pocket and head bolts threads filled with water, oil and other goodies? ? 

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11 hours ago, DutchEdwin said:

I want to adjust my Generator Regulator. The output is only 6.2V. It should be 7.2V - 7.5V when running at 30mph equivalent engine speed.

I looked in the shop manual on how to do it.

First I sanded the contact points with polish paper, grain 1000.

Setting the points: Looking at the spec's I know I have to set the air gap between the breakerpoints to 0.048 - 0.052" for the current and voltage regulator. However there is an other spec, the contact point gap being 0,015". Can anyone tell me where this gap should be set?

 

.015 is for the cut out relay. This relay only engages when there a voltage higher than batt. It's basically an on/off to eliminate discharge when engine not turning. It also maintain polarization of generator.

 

I would recommend Dodgeb4ya suggestion, disconnect field lead from regulator and ground generator terminal. Voltage should rise to +30v. 

Also measure ballast resistors under regulator that they are not disconnected.

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